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Discussion Starter #1
Allright, I have a solid D44 that I'm getting ready to swap into my truck. I'm going to run the stock shafts until they break, but at that point I'm going to go with some aftermarket shaft.

My question is this: if I run alloy shafts with spicer 760 u-joints, will the u- joints protect my investment of the stronger shafts? I would rather have the u-joint be the weak link since they're cheap and easy to replace, but if the joint blows will it take the shafts with it? I know there is always the possibility, but are the odds for me or against me?

Justin
 

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waterboy
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well, it depends on how and when the joint breaks. I feel you have a 'better' chance a the shafts surviving but, to what degree its better, I'm not sure. If you don't want to pony up for the ctm's then maybe pony up for the treated joints from longfield. if a joint breaks and you don't stop it quick enough (1/4 turn of the shaft) those ears are gonna be hitting a probably do some bad stuff.
 

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Ya, what he said.. plus if a joint lets go under torque you could loose a locker too. But dont be too quick to put down the stock 44 stuff. If your running no more than 36 or 37 and drive smart they should be ok. My 25 year old stuff lasted 2 years behind 300 hp and a 100:1 low range with 36's but one died the first trip out with 39.5s....
 

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I wouldn't use the stock spicers with alloy shafts Justin. I understand the "keep the weak link the simple link" theory but usually when a u-joint goes, it'll fubar the shafts ears as well, even an alloy one.
 

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Proeliator said:
I wouldn't use the stock spicers with alloy shafts Justin. I understand the "keep the weak link the simple link" theory but usually when a u-joint goes, it'll fubar the shafts ears as well, even an alloy one.
ditto and even if the shaft goes it shocks the ring and pinion so bad that it goes shortly there after so bulletproofing as much as you can is in your best interest.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Flatfenderman said:
Ya, what he said.. plus if a joint lets go under torque you could loose a locker too. But dont be too quick to put down the stock 44 stuff. If your running no more than 36 or 37 and drive smart they should be ok. My 25 year old stuff lasted 2 years behind 300 hp and a 100:1 low range with 36's but one died the first trip out with 39.5s....
This is why all i am going to do is replace the u-joints before i put the axle in, i'm goign to milk the stock stuff for all it's worth. Then if i don't break anything i'm ahead $1000. I'm also just going to be running the trac lok out front, but if i lose that i have spare carriers and gear sets so no major loss.

So after that it's basically all or nothing. If everything is "bullet proofed", that'd push the weak link to the hubs. Is anyone running hubs breaking alloy shafts or are those mainly people running drive flanges?

Justin
 

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Justin if your stock u-joints arnt dry or otherwise screwed up leave them in. Around here it's the popular opinion (for what that is worth) that the OE stuff will last better than the replacement in the same shaft. I dont have any hard facts, but the OE spicer joints dont seem to spit out caps nearly as easy as a fresh joint. I assume they are a pretty tight fit when new that you cant duplicate when you swap'em. Just keep an eye on them, like everytime you finish a trail or stress them on a tuff spot. If your not hammering the throttle you'll be fine. Just my$.02 worth.

C.
 

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Flatfenderman said:
Justin if your stock u-joints arnt dry or otherwise screwed up leave them in. Around here it's the popular opinion (for what that is worth) that the OE stuff will last better than the replacement in the same shaft. I dont have any hard facts, but the OE spicer joints dont seem to spit out caps nearly as easy as a fresh joint. I assume they are a pretty tight fit when new that you cant duplicate when you swap'em. Just keep an eye on them, like everytime you finish a trail or stress them on a tuff spot. If your not hammering the throttle you'll be fine. Just my$.02 worth.

C.
I agree with this theory, but I think it's because the stock caps rust in with the shafts and create a tack welded affect.

Another problem with the a joint failing is the ears widening and hooking a balljoint. It will either break off the balljoint, load up the shaft so bad it breaks again or breaks something else...or all of the above. :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The idea makes sense, but in the 26 years that this axle has been in existence, i'm sure the joints have been changed at least once. Besides, since i tack the caps in place i don't see this as being as big of a deal as if i were just using the C-clips. With my setup now I check the u-joints after every run looking for wlaking caps and missing clips, so it won't be any more effort after the swap.

Right now I know they turn freely, but i haven't been able to check them for slop or bad seals yet. That'll happen around oct. 1 (next time i'm home).

Justin
 

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anyone rely on the method of buying cheap hubs and letting them blow before an axle or u joint?
 
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