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hey steve where on earth did you get parts for the mini bike? I have a z50 I received for christmas in 1976.I would like to restore it..any help would be appreciated locating parts...Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Shafts are made out of 4340 and the cost quoted in earlier post are accurate. Bling factor? I thought bling was what would be visable to the naked eye? Closed knuckle-no bling. I'm willing to spend extra on my axles because I believe it's where money is best spent. I will have a 500 plus torque engine so added sercurity was needed running both 44" & 52" tires. I posted the pics to show how you could run a better u-joint than stock.
The guy that supplied me with the old Mini Trail 50 parts is a collector and he doesn't want his name spread around.I'm going to keep stock shafts for spares-they have new u-joints and speedy sleeves just in case-may sell later.
 

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hey elf, Todd at TRB qouted me about $800 for everything(inner and outers both sides,the removable yokes and u-joints).
really? my mistake, then. makes em even more appealing!
 

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So is this a different size u-joint than stock?? Would be nice if you could still use a stock joint/ stub/ whatever. Kinda sucks having to replace a whole side
 

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Todd from TRB Machine here, Steve told me he had placed a post on this web site and after looking at the post and photos most of you are wondering about cost, if you buy a short side this is $850.00 (includes inner and outer shafts, 2 billet wing flanges, and a bolt in cross) the long side is $900.00. And yes these are made from 4340 matl. these are stock lengths but custom lengths can be made as well, at this time I build to order just in case customs are requested. If you are wondering why the long side is more money, the shaft is to long to run in my CNC lathe with out a follow rest, so I rough them in on the CNC and then set them up in my engine lathe with a follow rest turned between centers, so basicly there is one more step required to produce the long shafts.
 

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I am sure everyone has their own idea of what the proper hardness should be for alloy axles, and after many years of building different types of shafts for different motorsports I have my own idea of what they should be too! and I would hope that you would respect me for keeping that to myself as many of you well know that RND is very expensive and I am passing this on to my customers that purchase these products.
 

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I can understand where you are coming from, but heat treating 4340 is not rocket science. I was just wandering If you were heat treating them at all, those wing flanges looked awful shinny to be heat treated unless you did some machining after they were heat treated. Many people think making parts out of 4130 , 4340, 300M, etc. will solve all their problems, but don't realize they are pretty much useless without proper heat treating.
 

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The wing flange is made of 4150 pre hard matl. so that no heat treat after machining would be needed, I made them this way because heat treat after machining would warp or spring the flanges out of shape, the shafts are the 4340 matl.
 

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we have these shafts in the Ogre after breaking 3 and twisting 4 in 8 wheelin trips

havnt runt them yet because the big block is comming out and an LS-1 is going in.... should be on the new 49" irok's in 2 weeks
 

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all i get is red x ......somebody post pics
 

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redruM said:
we have these shafts in the Ogre after breaking 3 and twisting 4 in 8 wheelin trips

havnt runt them yet because the big block is comming out and an LS-1 is going in.... should be on the new 49" irok's in 2 weeks
You bought the ogre?
 
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