Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 20 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm no full-exo fan, specially on TJs, but heyyyyy, you better have something better than the stock cage when doing some crazy shit, I don't want to end up with a really busted ass or even a really busted Jeep if I sustain a mayor roll.

This vehicle is not a rockcrawler, it is an expedition vehicle. It is inteded to travel on really rough terrains throught Mexico. Yes, it will climb slick rocks but it will also travel across mountains where snow falls, forests that are rut and tree dense (hence the "tree sliders"), cross rivers and deserts, traverse jungles (that why the cable limb guards), etc.

So here I present my rig:
TJ Rubicon '03
Currie 9"
37" Competition Claws on 17" TRs
5.5 RE LA, modified to front and back 4 links.

This vehicle is an all-terrain that sees pavement. For 30 mile trips I am planning on using de 37s, but to make longer trips I mount 33s Radial Claws and carry the 37s on a small trailer attached to the Jeep. In short, my Jeep is my only car, no trailing rig.

It’s main purpose is to get me in and out of tough trails, compete locally, even use it as a daily driver.

Let's get into it....
Here is how it looked after I replaced all the sides with 12 gauge steel. Why? Because it was all dented and I prefered to do it stronger.



Then came the fenders, built from 1.75x.12" 1020 DOM and 12 gauge.





The boatside protection are 10 gauge steel.




So basically all the body is protected. Now comes the roll-cage. The idea is to make it look as if it was a rack.... Here is the design I came up with (drawn on top of an old image).



The very main issue here is how to make it as light as possible. 1.75x.12" tube weights about 4 kg per meter.... that makes the cage roughly 140 lb if I build it entirely out of this tube.

Do you think the green, purple and blue tubes need to be that strong? Could it be made out of alluminum instead? Or lighter (less caliber or diameter) steel tube?

Can the design be impoved?

Important note 1: the cage is 100% body, supported by the dark orange tubes that go directly into the body mounts. This dark orange tubes are inside the sheet metal. They connect to the outside tubes with the grey 3/16" plate that is also drawn there, bolted or welded.

Important note 2: I am building on top of the original cage. The exo has supports that go through the cloth into the original cage in five points: middle and end points of the green tube, plus the center of the purple cross.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The reason for having it externally is that I need tubing to mount the rack, lights, spare tire, hi-lift, etc. My idea is why not make this tubing strong enough to do both jobs. Besides, doing so I can protect the windshield, which I can't with an internal one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
lose the lights, keep the hi-lift inside, and save yourself alot of trouble by building an internal cage. You could tie part of it into the fenders if you really want to protect your windshield.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,945 Posts
i'm sorry but i think your exo will look at best retarded. i agree, why buy it then destroy it? Why not go buy some POS CJ5 and put in a real cage and try and break it if that's the goal. btw, cable limb guards are :rainbow:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
just fold down the windshield and zip tie it to the little handle on your hood, that way when you roll only your cage hits the ground and your windsheild is fine. Of course that doesnt work with a stock "cage" you need a real internal one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Probably I should have said this first hand: this vehicle is not a rockcrawler, it is an expedition vehicle. It is inteded to travel on really rough terrains throught Mexico. Yes, it will climb slick rocks but it will also travel across mountains where snow falls, forests that are rut and tree dense (hence the "tree sliders"), cross rivers and deserts, traverse jungles (that why the rainbow cable limb guards :flipoff2: ), etc.

Why an exo, why protect the windshield and not fold it down? Well, because I will be in the middle of fucking nowhere for days in a row and I need to have protection from the outside. In other words, I am building a Malaysia Rainforest Challenge capable vehicle. I cannot have the windshield, top or windows off because rain, branches or fucking moskitoes will be up my ass.

You are worried about cutting a Rubicon... Well, I need a reliable vehicle and I feel this is it. If it makes you feel better I bought it used, at a good price, with lift, tires, winch, lights, everything basic. That was two and a half years ago. Well, I've traveled a lot, had a great time with it and yes, beat the shit out of it while doing so. That is why I just bought the 9", because the original axles were fatigued.

Also, dented it, that is why I replaced it with 12 gauge, so it won't dent easily.

And so on... rebuilding stronger whatever fails.

This is how it looked after 2 years of trails and competitions (without the tires):



If you take a look at the rack, well, it has a bunch of tubing that does nothing but carry itself. My proposal is to replace the thin tubes for stronger ones, with more triangulation, and obtain substantially improved protection.

Am I getting through?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
definitely helped to know where your going to be wheeling. But I'm not sure what you'll need for all that jazz. Hopefully people will be able to help, but it sounds like you've got what you need all in your head and just trying to get it all affirmed by others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Ditch the Factory cage, and just build what will functionally work for you. The "tree rails" shouldn't have to be to heavy gauge if it's mainly brush you're fending off. If you'll be leaning the whole rig on tree's with it, maybe use some smaller diameter DOM. I'm still trying to figure out how you're going to put them through the top? The flares and side steps look sweet. Keep goin' with what you've got and make sure you take off those cable limb guards when you hit the street...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
And the question is...

bigblackblur said:
Hopefully people will be able to help, but it sounds like you've got what you need all in your head and just trying to get it all affirmed by others.
Indeed I have a clear idea of what I want my vehicle to do and sustain. Also, I have been reading everything I could find on each mod and fab I've done lately or about to do. However, when it came to the cage, I wasn't able to find enough info on particular aspects because not too many people in your country do what I do... Well, shit, there is no jungle in the US to start with... So here I am... asking around.

The direct and simplified question I would throw to the knowledgable is:

What would be the lightest cage design and materials I could use to protect my vehicle against trees, whole-car ruts, and even a roll, considering that wheeling will be under extreme weather (windshield & top may not be damaged), in the middle of nowhere, with gear to endure a week far away from civilization?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Chromoly tubing would be the solution if you have the capability.
 

·
K^2
Joined
·
2,786 Posts
Luis Albarrán said:
Besides, doing so I can protect the windshield, which I can't with an internal one.

take it off and run a full internal...besides, rook racks add a Shiat ton of weight up top especially if you run a hi lift and or spare tire up there. CoG will be a god bit taller with all the tube up there and all
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Exo Cage

LUIS,

HOW ARE YOU. CONGRATS ON THE DESIGN IT SHOULD WORK WELL FOR THE TRAILS YOU WILL BE HITTING.

YOUR LUCKY YOU HAVE A REAL CHASIS TO WORK IT! WAY EASIER.
BUT ALWAYS KEEP IN MIND TO KEEP IT LIGHT AND STRONG. I RECALL WHEN WE DROVE DOWN FROM AUSTIN TO BELIZE AND THOSE ROOF AND TRAIL RACKS JUST GOT IN THE WAY! TOTAL DISCOMBOBULATION!!!

WE ARE WORKING ON OUR XD ROLL CAGE THIS WEEK. ARE YOU GOING TO THE ATASKON IN GDL ON FEB? WE CAN TALK MORE THERE.

SALUDOS
PONCE
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,004 Posts
your sides look good! make sure and do the loop around the front of the hood to protect the radiator, then tie that into your fenders. and also do a loop around your hood right in front of the windshield. then you can run a bar up both sides of the window frames and do your top exo rack. i understand what you are saying you want all the protection and not losing your top.i would go into the toyota forum, and you should get some good ideas from the guys doing exo,s on landcruisers and fourunners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
Looks pretty good to me man, I know what you are saying about needing the top enclosed, I do a lot of winter wheeling in colorado in 10º and lower temperatures in storms etc... I think a key issue you might want to look into is triangulation on that windsheild area, some more support in the a-pillars would help in side flops into those ruts etc... maybe put in an upside down V to a hood cross over tube. just a thought. Would love to come down there and wheel with you guys someday. I take a annual trip down to the baja and love going 5 days and not seeing another person just out there on the land
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15,321 Posts
What I would do is just remove the soft top and put on a hard top, build a stout internal cage with mounting points on it for exterior protection that is mounted to the hard top. That way when you are just playing you can remove the hard top and external protection and all that weight and still be safe and covered by your soft top, then put on the hard top with external protection (which should be more incliment weather worthy) for your expedition type events.
 
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
Top