[dragrcr65]

Ive been gathering parts and ideas to link the front of my rig and was going with a conventional 3-link panhard setup. Then after i was set I decided to start looking at a triangulated 4 link.

I can conceivably get my uppers in front of the engine and have a wheelbase of about 122-125" with the rear where it is now. issues I am thinking of is; tucking a 16" coilover that far forward, and weather i can get good numbers with fairly straight lowers and only triangulated uppers, most of the 4 link fronts i see are the opposite of that.

as for steering I dont care either way, if i 3 link it i will probaby keep my assist, 4 link woud have to be full hydro and im ok with that. \

125" sounds long but keep in mind im on 44s and its not a low rider..

what are your thoughts? part of me wants to go against the flow and do it different than others, and part of me realizes that alot of people 3 link the front for good reason and I should too...

 

[am4x4]

We need more info.

what do you use the truck for? crawling only? high speed dirt? street?

125" is a lot of wheebase. big tires don't do shit to fix it when you are trying to twist around trees or rocks you can't drive over the top of.

Triangulating the lowers only affects roll axis, helps keep it flat or negative, If the truck is ONLY used for crawling you won't really notice. If it goes fast it is something you want to consider.

But what is stopping you from triangulating your lowers? If you get a bunch of triangulation on your lowers you don't need as much on the uppers which means you don't have to push the axle as far forward

It actually gets easier to package long shocks if everything is moved forward a bit, you get away from the master cyl which opens up some room.

 

[Electric-Mayhem]

I went through the same dilemma with my build and ended up going 4 link front. You can see my build here... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1056976-blue-rock-magnet-build.html

My main thing was by the time you cram the panhard, steering, links and all that in there, its pretty hard to fit it all in a nice clean way. With the 4 link, its pretty straightforward. I also have the Hellfire Knuckles, and with those set up in Full Hydro, you can get 50 degrees of steering out of it.

I'm running ~120" wheelbase with mine, and ended up moving the axle between 8-10" forward from where it was with RUF leafs (it changed a bit while I was building so I'm not sure exactly anymore). I've done one trail, and it wasn't really an issue, but I am a little worried about the breakover angle. I know it will climb a lot better and be more stable on steep stuff with that wheelbase though.

I think the main thing you have to decide is whether you want it to be something pleasant to drive on the street or not. I'm not one of the guys that thinks Full Hydro is illegal or whatever, but after driving mine a bit at higher speeds, its pretty touchy even with the caster setup within spec and with a load reactive orbital. I'm sure I could do a better job with the alignment, but its still not great to drive on the road because of it. With a 3 Link, at least you get the steering box and a mechanical linkage that gives you some steering feel. With the Full Hydro, that pretty much goes away.

For something that is trailered most places and won't see much highway time, I think the 4 link is superior though. Plenty of room with my 22re if you move the axle forward some. I managed to triangulate the uppers, but you could do striaight links if you want more room to play with. I think you could still stay pretty close to being at zero Roll Axis with straight links, but it really depends on where you put stuff. At least on my rig, there seemed to be ample room using the Ruffstuff frame brackets and their Horizontal 4 link bracket that has about 3 inches of separation between the link ends.

Here is a picture of the clearance...

 

[dragrcr65]

My rig saw exactly 1 mile of street in the last 2 years and that was just from eagle lakes to Cisco at fordyce. I am probably going to green sticker it, even though the 4.3 is reffed. I just want some opinions. It's exclusively a trailer rig pretty much, it sees fordyce and the con 8-10 times a year and that's about it.

 

[dragrcr65]

Is that pic at bump? And is the axle in front of the crank pulley?

 

[Taco-Runner]

Do what ever "YOU" want to do. If it's moving the engine back or axle forward for clearance purposes or what ever. 3 links work great so do 4links. Just pick one based on how much work you are willing to do.

 

[Electric-Mayhem]

Is that pic at bump? And is the axle in front of the crank pulley?

I would say its maximum bump. I say that because its actually just barely kissing the oil pan in that picture. In final configuration its an inch or two lower at full bump now.

The upper link mounts are just under the crank pully in my final configuration. My tires stick out in front a bit, which is really nice for going up vertical wall type stuff. You could maybe get a bit more bump out of it with straighter links and moving the axle forward a bit more, but honestly without completely re-configuring the whole front end (rear radiator and all that), that is about all you get for full bump. It is still a heck of a lot of bump, and you would start getting limited in other areas like the frame at that point too.

Its really not bad moving the axle forward, you just have to account for it when you do your mounts and links.

 

[UYN]

My uppers are almost identical to the ones pictured above , but I went with straight lowers mounted directly below the frame . I would recommend triangulating your lowers , my 44s hit the lowers at about 35 degrees of steering . With a wheelbase of 117'' and limited steering its not very maneuverable , I may change my lowers to alleviate that issue . I went full hydro also , about 6'' of up travel , 0 high speed use but works great for crawling .

 

[Booger Weldz]

Have a pc/laptop in the garage with internet and a tape measure with cold beer when i come get my junk. Ill have mindy give us blowjobs while were layin under your truck naked. Just keep the tape measure away from my weiner, i dont like stubby jokes...

 

[dragrcr65]

Have a pc/laptop in the garage with internet and a tape measure with cold beer when i come get my junk. Ill have mindy give us blowjobs while were layin under your truck naked. Just keep the tape measure away from my weiner, i dont like stubby jokes...

Lmao...

 

[Mr Stubs]

IMOP linking a framed Toyota is a waste of time. To much is compromised by frame, motor, body, ext.... When it comes to link placement.

Build a tube chassi and put them where they need to go, not where they fit "best".

So I guess I'm no help...:flipoff2::flipoff2:


Go team wagon and rock those old school horse and buggie springs!!!:flipoff2:

 

[dragrcr65]

Maybe get some wood wheels too?!

 

[mobil1syn]

dont use 16" coilover. 14" is plenty

 

[dragrcr65]

Considering you don't know my rig, or how I drive, or what I'm planning, that seems like a bold statement.

 

[locost7]

I went through the same dilemma with my build and ended up going 4 link front. You can see my build here... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/1056976-blue-rock-magnet-build.html

That looks like an 80 front axle, but the knuckles do not?

 

[Provience]

Considering you don't know my rig, or how I drive, or what I'm planning, that seems like a bold statement.

Run a 6" and stay locked.

Bitches love hanging tires :flipoff2:

 

[Provience]

I vote 3 link btw

Because it doesn't matter :rasta:

 

[dragrcr65]

Run a 6" and stay locked.

Bitches love hanging tires :flipoff2:

Like this?!

 

[dragrcr65]

I'm good at hangin tire!



For the record, I backed outta that one like a pimps boss...:grinpimp:

 

[mobil1syn]

Considering you don't know my rig, or how I drive, or what I'm planning, that seems like a bold statement.

ooh sorry, didnt realize you were from nocal. get 18" coilovers and 44" boggers so you can get extreme on the rubicon :flipoff2: