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1966 K20. originally eaton / closed knuckle dana 44. 6 cylinder, 4 spd, divorced tcase.

My buddy bought the truck for $800 originally with a 350, th400 2wd and no transfer case. I built him a nice 383. 3800 in parts and machine work. We got it in and running a couple years ago. He picked up a parts truck, 78 K20 with an 8lug d44/14 bolt 3.73 open. 350, th400 np203 with part time kit. $300 took it home. Trans had like 400 miles on it.

about 4 months ago my buddy called me and asked me if I knew anybody who would buy the trucks. I asked him how much he needed and he said 2500 for everything. I gave him that for it without any haggling. He only put 200 miles on the motor since I built it for him.


The tear down.





 

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After I got it down to frame rails sitting on jackstands I sorted out what I was keeping and what was going to scrap. Both axles, the bed and all the original suspension mounts were going. The bed was in really bad shape so I will end up with a custom flatbed in the end.

whatever tweeker had the truck before us put some kind of spring shackle mounts on the rear from some other truck. they were bolted on through holes that were just blown in the frame with a torch.

I cut off all the original spring hangers etc that I didnt want so i could replace with good greasable links etc.

All unused holes in the frame, factory or otherwise were welded up and smoothed. I was originally going to go with an ORD rear shackle flip kit and build front spring mounts. I am using the front and rear leaves from the 78 K20 so they are a little longer than the 66 springs. When I got the rear shackle flip on it, I thought that the hangers would make exellent front hangers as well.


I got the 14 bolt in it with new u bolts etc. This will get rebuilt with 4.56's and a Yukon grizzly locker. I was a little worried about how the pinion angle would come out with the spring hangers the way they are but it looks good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Next I started working on the rear crossmember and frame section. I want to put a big fuel cell in between the frame rails in the back instead of using the behind the seat tank. I cut out the original xmember in the back and used 4x6 square tube and put it in the back. this also cleaned up the corners of the frame rails where the original tweekers boogered on a hitch reciever.


Next the front frame and spring hangers.

Here is where it gets tricky. I ended up with about 7-8" of lift out of the rear so I had to make the front match with a set of 4" rancho springs that was on the 78. The way I did it may not be optimal for approach angle but you will see later what the plan is. I got some mounts from Ballistic and lowered down the spring hangers about 4" and put the rear shackle mounts on the bottom of the frame instead of going through the original holes of the frame. The front mounts are kinda ugly so far but they will all be melded into a hidden winch mount beind the bumper when its done and wont be so bad.



Also, as you can see, I did some horse trading and ended up with a CUCV dana 60 which was in awesome shape, low miles. 4.56 and a G80 (I think, its locked or LSD of some sort).
 

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Next I started on motor mounts and some frame boxing for strength over my new suspenion links in the front.




I got the frame done where I like it, stripped, filled, smoothed and ready so started throwing some paint on it. I laid down a rattle can flat black primer, and two coats of rubberized undercoating so far. the whole thing will be finished with a VHT gloss black top coat.

no pics of the cab yet but so far the firewall is almost done there, all filled and smoothed nice.

Near future work will include getting the 40 gal fuel tank from the tahoe into the back, begin plumbing and get the 383 all cleaned up and painted up nice again. I pulled the heads off and had them cleaned and re-lapped because when it was running before the carb wasn't right and there was a lot of soot in them so I just wanted to knock them off and have them cleaned before putting it in the truck.

Overall scope of the build will be 383/400/205 -which I have, just needs new bearings and seals. only thing changing for sure is the carb will be thrown out for an MSD atomic EFI i think. I hear good things. I really need an OD trans but this 400 only has like 400 miles on it, its in great shape..

14b/60 4.56's lockers.

Tires wise, not sure yet. Whatever fills up the wheel wells and doesn't look too retarded.

I picked up a NIB 21 circuit wiring kit for it for 100 bucks from another buddy so it will end up getting updated with all the bells and whistles. Cab will be updated with a flatpanel touch screen stereo with nav and all that jazz. Dakota digital guage cluster etc.

Flatbed will have custom cabinets etc, maybe a rear mounted winch, hidden goosneck. That type of thing.


More updates to come. This is my first ground up build so I may or may not be doing everything to pirates standards but Its mine and it is what it is :D
 

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Cool truck. Will be watching to see what you have in mind with those front spring hangers.

You'll catch some hell if you send that HO52/72 to the re-cycler though!
 

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Wish I had the skills to build an old truck like this. Keeping an eye on this one for fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool truck. Will be watching to see what you have in mind with those front spring hangers.

You'll catch some hell if you send that HO52/72 to the re-cycler though!

nobody wanted it on pirate or craigslist for 100 bucks so I recycled it and bought a flame suit with the cash. :smokin:
 

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frame is finished. ready to start hanging stuff back on it. Front is going back together. got the rotors turned and replaced the wheel bearings. getting the hubs cleaned up and painted will be next step for the front.

Got the rear drums turned, ready to reinstall with new shoes then I'll be able to roll it.

The frame is painted with 1 coat of flat black as a primer, 2 coats of rubberized undercoating and 4 coats of VHT high temp rollbar and chassis paint. the VHT is 7.99 a can but it lays down very smooth and nice. I would reccomend to anybody as the next best thing to a spray gun.




Got the heads back from the shop and through the long block back together and put a couple coats of plastikote chevrolet red-orange on it.

Specs are:
.030 over 4 bolt 350
scat 3.75 cranks and 5.7 bushed pin rods.
Icon forged flat top slugs (about 9.8:1 with a 64 cc head)
Dart sportsman II heads with 2.02/1.60's and 200 cc runner.
60103 voodoo hydraulic flat tappet cam,
•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 268/276
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 227/233
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .489/.504
•LSA/ICL: 110/106
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 1800-6200
Edelbrock RPM Airgap with an MSD Atomic EFI unit.
Long tube headers for a nova/camaro fit nicely, gotta hit up doug thorly.

She idles a little lumpy but she will put the weenies to it.
 

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You had me until I saw them FUGLY ass front spring hangers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yeah i know... take the good with the bad... They will be less of an eyesore when done.
 

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The front spring hangers dont seem to tie all that much into the frame sides..Id keep an eye out for them to twist the frame a lot when driving the truck..

Cant wait to see this finished, i have an all original rust free step side of the same year i want to build one day.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
SO..

Just thinking in hindsight..

The front hangers do suck. I let a guy helping me talk me into them. I never liked them.

However, they are going to stay for a while. I've probably got 6 months left or more ont he build. I'm going to roll it around like this for a short time and start putting together the parts to link and coil the front I think. those hangers are bolt on so easy to get rid of.

I have never messed with any kind of coil set up so I gotta do some research on what will work best for it.

I appreciate the criticism. I should have took the current setup idea to the PBB before the torch hit the steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
some more progress. nothing major. got the front end back together, just need hubs. Thinking about Yukons. Hung the motor in it, waiting for tranny from the tranny shop. I'll get it painted and hung when its done then to throw a bearing and seal kit into the 205.


Got a nice shot of my thumb in that one as well. Still gotta round up the parts for the cross over steering and a more gooder tie rod.





Sitting on some 35" rollers, and yes there are my hideous front spring hangers. it will probably end up with about a 37 or maybe 38.5" when all said and done.
 

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Got it rolling on all fours now. starting to plan out my fuel tank placement and need some advice.

Take a look at the pics.




As it sets I have 8" of upward travel before the 14b will touch the fuel tank there. by the time I build the bed it will lose some due to squat but I'll pick it back up with a zero rate from ORD I think. Question is do you think this is enough room for a DD/tow rig that will see mild wheeling in sand or the like? I don't plan on jumping the piss out of it so no worries there. I figure ad some bump stops that will limit it to about 7" upward should be fine, what say you?
 

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Hey thanks for the input guys! very helpful. I guess I'll just go fuck myself.
 

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It's a DD bumpstop it so it don't hit the tank.
 

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I got som add a leafs I made I'll sell ya. Can get pics if you want. Pm me

Appreciate the offer. I went with the zero rates because they will allow me an 1 to 1.5" movement front or back if need be when I get the body/fenders on incase of rubbage.


been slow last few days. messed with getting some tank brackets and strapping made and getting the 40 gal yukon tank all cleaned up and ready for some paint.



also ordered some brake parts, steering parts, shocks and zero rates from ORD. should be here monday. more updates after that.
 

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quickie:

got the tank painted and the mounts all done.
crappy iphone pics.

hung some more stuff on the motor. picked up a set of hooker headers that fit but need to be cleaned up. not sure if they are going to work though, they don't seem to like the angle plug heads at all. # 3 is impossible with a standard length plug. if the accell header plugs don't work I'm back to square one there.

 
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