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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been reading the forums for a few years now and recently bought a jeep. Everything I know is from searching the forums. Picked up a lot of info. This is a college build but not an extreme tight budget build. I have worked alot and paid for all parts by myself 100%.

Here we go. Started with a totaled 1999 TJ 4.0/5speed with 100K miles. Has 4" procomp lift/3" body lift and 35" BFG MT. Already removed the hard top and damaged pieces as well as the body lift



Sold some parts

Started on a front bumper



Drilled holes to mount a smittybuilt 8000 winch,

Ordered Clevis mounts from AtoZ fab. Good pieces.



Ordered stinger from BTF because my bender only goes to 90*



Heavy 1-3/4" pipe

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=398329&stc=1&d=1224729748
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Moved on to the tube fenders. Haven't really seen this design before, thought it looked cool. Built a 5" flare. built out of 1.5" DOM. The plate is 1/8"









 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Also bought a new windshield frame and soft top. and painted the windshield frame. Also welded where the side of the tub separated from the wheel tub
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Started on a roll cage. Most of the ideas came from the TJ cage inspiration thread. It is made from 1.75" DOM and 1.5" DOM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What was totalled about that Jeep?
It was a rollover. Smashed hard top, smashed full steel doors, windshield/windshield frame, bumpers, some bodywork, one fender, tub is separated from wheel wells, rear frame is bent near the trackbar mount. The whole thing would need to be repainted. Still in very good shape for being totaled.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
more cage

I bought the seatbelt bungs from summit machine. Very nice product, great machine work. Good price too
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The plot thickens. Bought a Dana 70U with 65" WMS. Replaced the wheel bearings. Used spindle lock nuts from a 2004 2500HD gas truck. They are the ones in the 14 bolt bible that use the keyway and c-clip. Liked those better than the standard lock nuts. Also replaced the left hand thread wheel studs on the left side for right hand threads. Used calipers from a 79 chevy and brackets from ruffstuffspecialties. Nice product as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Bought a diff cover from GLO. USPS must hate them. Shipped in a flat rate box, all 21lbs of it. Wanted to use the 4.10's that came in it but pulled them out and found this



Wanted to keep the 4.10's and do a 231/300 doubler but that part of my budget now will go to regearing the axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ordered a battery box from ruffstuff as well. I will be painting the fenders this weekend. This will slow down now that I am back in school so the $$ is getting tighter and tighter. Still in need of a front axle but here are my plans

Comp cut/sliders
40" LTB's
Beadlocks
flat belly with skidplate
SYE
Rear bumper build with swing out tire carrier
Bedliner inside of tub
Removeable steering wheel
Dodge MC


Front
HP 60 with 3.5" cut off the long side. Rebuild with 5.13's/detroit.
14" coilovers.
Hydro if $ allows
4 link
6-8" stretch


Rear
70U with 5.13's welded
Cantilever Suspension with 8-10" coilovers
Fuel Cell
10" stretch
4link
 

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good work, nice clean welds too:smokin: excited to see the cantilever set up
 

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First off, nice lookin' work.

Second, I am far from a professional when it comes to fab work.

Third, don't most people recommend putting the welded seam in when using box tube? I see on your bumper/crossmember you have it rotated out???
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Third, don't most people recommend putting the welded seam in when using box tube? I see on your bumper/crossmember you have it rotated out???
Didn't think about it. Not sure how much difference it will make. It is 1/4" thick. Thanks for the advise though. I will do that on the back bumper
 

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Very nice, but how do you afford it as a student?
 
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