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Project Evolution

EDIT: I'm restructuring the pictures in this thread so that I don't have to attach them. This will allow me to have up to 10 images (including smileys) per post and the pictures are hosted on my server instead of taking the board's server. I also changed the name of the title.

Well guys, why not build this scout here. I know its on the BB, but I figure ya'll may appericiate it more.

History:
Matt, the owner of this rig, was planning on building a scout. He's had several and never had one really built to what he was looking for (Matt is into the outdoors and has climbed almost every peak up to 20000 ft). This scout was going to be that scout. He's bought a few things from me for his build, and while he was out climbing peaks he got a guy to come help with the build. Unfortunately the guy helped take everything apart and little else.

I was looking through the classifies one day and saw that he was selling it. I emailed/PM him right away to see why he was selling it. After a little conversation it was clear that the project hit a big road block and Matt was needing something he could drive, and the scout seemed so far away from that, he was about to start over.

We had talked before about a buildup. Matt, like most of us, has a 'scout fund' and when he told me that he simply didn't see this scout being used for at least a year, I decided to pitch him this build.

I'm sure I sound like a lunatic psycho when people get me talking about something I'd like to build ~ and surprisingly enough, Matt wasn't scared off by my rambles about a revolutionary project. With a little help, I was sure we could put this build together.

With that, this build was born. Matt put things relatively back together ~ at least enough to roll the scout onto a flatbed and have it brought over. He will be my co-pilot in this build. Although its highly uncommon for a shop to allow a customer to do in-depth work right along side them, that's exactly what you'll see.

So lets begin.

First and foremost, when I said the last guy knew how to take things apart, I meant it. The rockers on this beast need replacing and that's exactly what they were in process of getting.




Normally you'd call Mr. Scout, Scout FX or any other LL dealer for some replacement rockers. However, I knew that this scout was being built for rugged use and would need some RockSliders ~ so I figured, why not build them into the rockers? Matt agreed and so we started measuring.


Interestingly enough the inner/outer rocker assemblies measured 3.5" tall. It so happened to be 3.5" wide as well (or could be). So I ordered up some 3.5" x 3.5" box tube (.188" wall). I believe they'd normally be about 60" long, but after Matt measured, we ended up with 58" long.



I want the new rockers to look somewhat stock, so we marked and cut a 2.5" x 2.5" angle out of them.

 

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Next I needed to re-close in the box, so I got a strip of 3/16" x 3.5" flat stock from the steel rack and presto Perfect fit.


Next the flat plate was seam welded into the box.


Then I ground it down smooth and sanded


After putting a 45 degree 'ramp' to help clear rocks and provide a nice sliding surface in the rockers in case they are used as sliders.



Just at that time, both Matt and I got calls from the wives. My wife called to tell me she was coming home sick from work. His called to tell him that her parents (living in TX) decided to make a trip out to visit and will be showing up in about 30 minutes (otherwise un announced). So we packed it up and called it a day.

Tomorrow/Monday we'll build the Driver-side rocker and Matt will build some door braces. What we'll be doing is build a brace that bolts to the stock door hinges and will weld to the B-pillar (where the doors latch). These are temperary and will be used to keep the body in place while we cut the old rusty rockers out and weld the new X-duty rockers in.

But to update you on some other events of the night. The front fenders were removed. This was done in prepration for the rocker replacement and modifications to the inner fenders (we're putting coil-overs up front ).


Matt also brought over the 21-curcuit EZ wiring harness ~ all wires in the scout (or at least a HUGE majority) had been ripped from the scout.

Needless to say I had to take a peek at the harness since I'd never seen or installed an EZ harness. I was extremely pleased with the smaller fuse box, and color-coded wiring system. Reminds me allot of the Painless system. For now, I feel obligated to say that I FULLY endorse the buying of an after-market wiring system like this. STOCK WIRING ~ new or old ~ BLOWS! I will certainly talk more about this later in the build. Stay tuned.


Last, Matt had previously bought one of our dash conversion kits. This perticular one was our "Krawler" series. Its designed to replace the wore out and cracked dash pad. It looks and works awesome (as you can see in the Rusty Build). His is filled with Autometer black faced gauges.

Like I said, this isn't just going to be a suspension job. This is going to be more of a whole-scout build ~ quite literally. About the only thing we AREN'T going to do is replace the dented sheet metal or rebuild the drivetrain.

Speaking of which, the drivetrain is a stock 345 w/ 4bbl ~ T19 (close I think), and a D20. End result will be Links front and back, 104-105" Wheel base, tera-low D20, HP44 and 9-inch combo, 5.13s, and 37" tires.
 

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I kinda wondered how those bumpers were made, I figured that was how but nice to see it step by step. What did you use to cut that tube so straight? Straight edge and a plasma or ?

You got some long pic or something making this post reaaaally wiiiiiiiiide..
 

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Matt from TX and moved to CO!!
Sounds familiar.

Good to see him still involved.
He never does things half way!!
Should be a good build.

The rocker idea is pretty similar to what I had planned but with just using angle and flat stock. But I like the rounded edges. I don't have the capability to cut that much box without buying lots of angle grinders and wheels.
 

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I kinda wondered how those bumpers were made, I figured that was how but nice to see it step by step. What did you use to cut that tube so straight? Straight edge and a plasma or ?

You got some long pic or something making this post reaaaally wiiiiiiiiide..
he puts a metal blade on a table saw and feeds the tube through.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I kinda wondered how those bumpers were made, I figured that was how but nice to see it step by step. What did you use to cut that tube so straight? Straight edge and a plasma or ?
Exactly, I used a straigh edge and the plasma. Two 58" cuts, it was pissed off by the end of that.

You got some long pic or something making this post reaaaally wiiiiiiiiide..
Nope I size all my pictures down to 500 pix in the longest direction
Shoulda cut the side with the seam off.
Ya, like a freakin' idiot I didn't even think ~ the second one doesn't have a seam anymore :shaking:
hind sight 20/20. I saw that too. It's not facing the rocks should not be an issue, just preference.
The Seam will be on top under the floor. So ya, you won't see it unless you see these pics.

Glad to see your working on a Scout:D
Ya, Matt's scout put a hold on the YJ build. I'm excited to put this scout together for sure.

he puts a metal blade on a table saw and feeds the tube through.
That's one way. I have used a table saw in the past, that's a plasma cut.
 

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I wouldn't do it with heavy stuff without some way to secure the metal, but for very thin sheetmetal (like ducting) ~ it works great!

Actually, a 7" chop-saw wheel in a skill saw is a killer way to cut floor pans out. You can control the depth of the 'blade' and make a nice clean cut. Now that I have a plasma I don't do that ~ but you do have to worry more about the gas lines. :eek:
 

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I have done the skill saw thing but never would think of actually using a table saw.:eek:
Me either... but I have used the radial arm saw to cut 3/4" aluminum. :flipoff2: Just turn the blade around backwards on the RAS.
 

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Me either... but I have used the radial arm saw to cut 3/4" aluminum. :flipoff2: Just turn the blade around backwards on the RAS.
Not to mess up your build thread, but I cut Aluminum on the table saw, wear a face shield for sure. I run the blade normal, I could see on a RAS you would need to run in reverse as it would catch and run:eek: As for Steel, that would ruin my plastic saw dust collector.
For those of us with a gas ax, I like to use a piece of C channel for a straight edge as it does a nice job and does not warp.
 

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Matt came over tonight and we spent some time lifting it 24" off the ground so we can start ripping everything off it.


It doesn't look like it, but the tires are like 12" off the ground.

I took out a drink w/ ice in it. By the time we called it a night, the drink had more ice in it than when it started. BBBRRRRR! :eek:

I also got to work on the front floor (driver side) and made it look like the passenger side.


Then I dropped (literally) the old axles.


And started removing the original suspension mounts in prep for the frame sleeves and link mounts


Scout looks a bit torn apart after today
 

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Well I drove up to Denver and met they guys from TNT half way between their Cheyenne shop and my Colorado springs shop. They were able to give me a sweet deal on some Summit Machine Large Flex Joints.




Half of these are for this build the other half are for the YJ project I have going on.

I was a bit surprised at how short these are (side to side) the DOM housing is only 1.75" wide, so my normal 2" DOM links will not work. I don't want to go with 1.75" or smaller round tube on the lower links, so I may go with 1.5" x 3" box tube lower links.

Any thoughts?
 

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Sleeve the 2 inch with some solid and machine the ends to accept that. It will act as a spacer kinda. What wall is your 2 inch. I'm assuming 1/4 wall. That would be plenty strong also.
 

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Sleeve the 2 inch with some solid and machine the ends to accept that.
I'm sure you have better access to machining than I did, But I would avoid having a maching shop do maching on links. I had my links drilled and tapped and what was "estimated" to be $10.00 per end ended up at $33.00 per end.:mad3:

so I may go with 1.5" x 3" box tube lower links.
How are you mounting the frame end on the lower links(frame or new x member), and do you have clearance for 3"?
 

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How are you mounting the frame end on the lower links(frame or new x member), and do you have clearance for 3"?
I'm using poly bushings for better isolation from road 'noise'. They are the standard 2 5/8" ID so I've already ordered up some bushings with that overall width.


Your planning on adjustable links, right?
Actually no. On this one I'm not. I could, but wasn't planning on adjustable lowers. Possibly adjustable uppers but I'm not 100% on that yet.

Yes that means you have to make sure things are square before you fully weld them in, but we do that anyway.
These are machined to be tig welded to the barrel and the face is 1.5" so the 1.75 should be fine.
You're going to have to post a better picture of that, I'm blind and can't see what that is.
Sleeve the 2 inch with some solid and machine the ends to accept that. It will act as a spacer kinda. What wall is your 2 inch. I'm assuming 1/4 wall. That would be plenty strong also.
2" DOM with a 1/4" wall is what I normally use, but like I said, the large flex joints are only 1.75" wide so the 2" is out. Not sure if I'm comfortable using anything smaller yet. That's why I said I'll probably use a thick walled box tube. Not as bling as the tube, but its harder to bend and I can use some 2" (.250 wall) box to build a slider on it.

Hum....
 
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