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Discussion Starter #1
as i said last week... had a semi flat pitman arm on my toy and my leaf spring over flexed and broke it.....called marlin had him make a flat pitman arm for me...got it installed it...now shit...when i put marlins tierid end through it the nut on the top hits my frame rail....so i cant turn left...my question...the easiest fix i figured is to bend the pitman arm...its make out of thick metal plate... when and if i decide to bend it...do i need to make sure the hole for the tierodend is parallel to the ground if you know what i mean..if i just bent it down will it make the tierod movement awkward or am i just overthinking? what would you do??? cant put drop arm on it...hits leafsrping on stuff...and yes im gona put a bump stop on it now...any info would be great if you know what im trying to get across...thanks!!
 

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could always put a small C into the frame to allow the nut head to move freely through....
 

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I say notch the frame or rotate the box. I don't know which would be easier but I would do one of the two if I was wearing your shoes.
 

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Wouldn’t rotating the box be essentially like bending the pitman arm?:confused: The spring is compressing into the pitman arm? Notch the frame or bend the arm and run a longer bumpstop.
 

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There should be enough movement in the tierod to just bend it down. the best options I see is:

1. Bend the arm.

2. Buy a new arm.
 

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Heat it and bend it to clear. I used a stock arm with an insert installed to put the TRE on top of the arm, then tweaked the arm to clear. Puts the Drag link up closer to the frame so the spring don't hit it. I also put a dog leg in my drag link so the TRE's stay within their arc and don't bind.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks....i think bending it would be best...moving the box sux and i dont want to notch the fram you dorks...:flipoff2: dont want to make a weak point on the frame... i think some liberal heat...and bend it.... ill keep ya updated thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
would you recomend bending it cold or heating it and bending it? doesnt heating it weaken it??
 

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strmin said:
thanks....i think bending it would be best...moving the box sux and i dont want to notch the fram you dorks...:flipoff2: dont want to make a weak point on the frame... i think some liberal heat...and bend it.... ill keep ya updated thanks
I rather have a weak frame then a weak pitman arm!

Besides, Dork, when you notch the frame you weld in some material to "sleeve" the cut you made. Done right, you end up with a stronger frame.

-Wayne
 

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exactly, i would but a piece of pipe or tube into the fram, it will not lose strenght, it is the siomplest and safest method

say 4" diameter, 3 or 4mm wall, notch the frame, weld it in

then get happy

bending the pitman by heating and stuff will weaken it, and you will die :eek:

:flipoff2: notch the frame or rotate the box!
 

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Why not cold bend the arm with a large brake press?

I dont like to notch a frame that could be stronger from the git go. As you know this is not far from the front of the frame rail where yotas usually crack and break after several years of hard wheeling.
 

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Nate C said:
Why not cold bend the arm with a large brake press?

I dont like to notch a frame that could be stronger from the git go. As you know this is not far from the front of the frame rail where yotas usually crack and break after several years of hard wheeling.
Same spot I've seen frames notched, for draglink clearance. Guess that was probably on the passenger side though.
 

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buy a new "z-shaped" arm, add bump stop, or bend your old one , perhaps at a metal shop so it will be correctly done, i dont think u should cut your frame. spring should not flex past straight, make sure your bump stops are long enough.
 
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