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Discussion Starter #1
Just a quick question for those of you with '89-95 trucks who have swapped Chevy's into the rear: I want to go with the double shackle setup, mainly because that way I don't have to relocate the rear spring hanger. My question is this: Is the stock Toyota shackle long enough or did you use lift shackles, and if so, how much lift? I already ordered Procomp aal's, how much more lift do you think I will need? I would like to lift the rest with longer Chevy shackles and stay away from blocks completely. If I don't hear back I'll just get everything welded/bolted on and see how much lift I still need, but it'd be nicer to be able to order all the parts I need now (at least to save on shipping). My biggest concern is the length of Toyota shackle I need. Thx in advance. <IMG SRC="smilies/eyemouth.gif" border="0">
 

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<IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> search! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

ha ha ha !
 

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THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I NEVER THOUGHT OF THAT!!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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i haven't done the the swap yet. i have my eye on a set of 94 2wd sprinds from a v6.

so after i get it all done i'll tell ya. sometime around december or january! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by Justin David Kalla:
<STRONG>im using a 1.5" lift shackle connected to the stock chezy one.....the stock chevy is connected to the frame</STRONG>
the CHEVY shackle is connected to the frame!? Is this what you meant to say? Please explain, I don't understand. I thought it would be sooo much easier to go from frame to Toyota shackle to Chevy shackle to leaf spring, because everything bolts right together. Unless of course i'm missing something here?
 

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Originally posted by crawlytoy:
<STRONG>the CHEVY shackle is connected to the frame!? Is this what you meant to say? Please explain, I don't understand. I thought it would be sooo much easier to go from frame to Toyota shackle to Chevy shackle to leaf spring, because everything bolts right together. Unless of course i'm missing something here?</STRONG>
that is what i am planning on doing!
<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by crawlytoy:
<STRONG>the CHEVY shackle is connected to the frame!? Is this what you meant to say? Please explain, I don't understand. I thought it would be sooo much easier to go from frame to Toyota shackle to Chevy shackle to leaf spring, because everything bolts right together. Unless of course i'm missing something here?</STRONG>
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How many other guys have done this set-up frame/toy shack/chevy shack/spring??? How strong is the connection when flexed hard???
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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If you want a real cheap solution, go to Home Depot and pick up some 6" Unistrut couplers and use them as shackles. You'll need 4 and they already have predrilled holes. The Chevy shackle bolts right to them, just need a couple extra bolts if you scavenged the ones that were with the Chevy springs. Weld a piece of 1" flat stock on the couplers to keep the shackles from inverting if you flex it hard. Here's a link to mine temporarily set up when I built my truck. Unistrut couplers are in the electrical department.
http://www.geocities.com/pmurf11/doubleshackle.jpg

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: pmurf1 ]
 

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Originally posted by pmurf1:
<STRONG>If you want a real cheap solution, go to Home Depot and pick up some 6" Unistrut couplers and use them as shackles. You'll need 4 and they already have predrilled holes. The Chevy shackle bolts right to them, just need a couple extra bolts if you scavenged the ones that were with the Chevy springs. Weld a piece of 1" flat stock on the couplers to keep the shackles from inverting if you flex it hard. Here's a link to mine temporarily set up when I built my truck. Unistrut couplers are in the electrical department.
http://www.geocities.com/pmurf11/doubleshackle.jpg

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: pmurf1 ]</STRONG>
how thick is that stuff, and have you broken them yet?
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Discussion Starter #11
Originally posted by pmurf1:
<STRONG>If you want a real cheap solution, go to Home Depot and pick up some 6" Unistrut couplers and use them as shackles. You'll need 4 and they already have predrilled holes. The Chevy shackle bolts right to them, just need a couple extra bolts if you scavenged the ones that were with the Chevy springs. Weld a piece of 1" flat stock on the couplers to keep the shackles from inverting if you flex it hard. Here's a link to mine temporarily set up when I built my truck. Unistrut couplers are in the electrical department.
http://www.geocities.com/pmurf11/doubleshackle.jpg

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: pmurf1 ]</STRONG>
first of all, do you notice any more side to side movement with the unistrut couplers (like because they are like a two-piece shackle instead of a solid one piece and may have more play side to side?)? Are all the unistrut couplers the same length? Also, just thought I'd point out because I noticed, looks like that little piece of metal you welded on (so the shackle wouldn't invert) would hit your chevy shackle during compression, possibly limitting it? I dunno, just thought it looked that way. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by RCRunner:
<STRONG>
Originally posted by crawlytoy:
[qb]the CHEVY shackle is connected to the frame!? Is this what you meant to say? Please explain, I don't understand. I thought it would be sooo much easier to go from frame to Toyota shackle to Chevy shackle to leaf spring, because everything bolts right together. Unless of course i'm missing something here?</STRONG>
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How many other guys have done this set-up frame/toy shack/chevy shack/spring??? How strong is the connection when flexed hard???
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">[/QB]
a lot of people have done this, and no reports of breakage yet. Supposedly the toyota shackle doesn't even pull away from the frame unless flexed really hard (in other words, it won't come down on the street). Hope this helps.
 

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Hey crawlytoy,
Have you measured yet. In order to do the double shackle you will need to move your hangers back, not moving the hanger you can use a 8" single shackle with about 40-45 degree angle. If you go double, you will need to move the hanger back 4-5" or so, otherwise you will have to use a real short shackle on top with the stock location, which then would'nt give you any more advantage from a single shackle. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

[ 09-15-2001: Message edited by: GRABBER ]
 

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Discussion Starter #14
as far as I understand, using a longer Toyota shackle mounted directly to the frame with the Chevy shackle mounted to that will work as well. The longer the Toyota shackle, the further back the Chevy shackle will be, thus equal to moving the hanger back in the first place (plus you get more droop). Hope this makes sense. BTW, have you started your swap yet?
 

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Originally posted by crawlytoy:
<STRONG>as far as I understand, using a longer Toyota shackle mounted directly to the frame with the Chevy shackle mounted to that will work as well. The longer the Toyota shackle, the further back the Chevy shackle will be, thus equal to moving the hanger back in the first place (plus you get more droop). Hope this makes sense. BTW, have you started your swap yet?</STRONG>
That will only work on the previous generation pickups. If you do this the second shackle would have to be like 13-14" long, and the chevy shackle aint that long <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"> . Measure, you will see. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 

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Thats Dustin, I'm trying to find his e-mail, so I can ask him exactly what he did. I'm assuming he moved the mount back, then built custom shackles to get it to work this way. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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I should have said that my double shackle set up is on an 85 Runner, so it's probably different on the newer trucks. Looks like it from the picture of the blue SB truck.
Unistrut couplers are 6" or 12" long. Home Depot only has the 6" ones. You can get 12" ones from wholesale plumbing, electrical houses for pretty cheap and drill your own holes. They're 1/4" thick, so they're great for shackle material. I don't notice any side to side movement or unloading on mine. It takes quite a bit of droop to unload them. The anti inversion piece I welded on looks like it may hit under compression, but it doesn't. The springs are real soft and ride nice for $100.
 

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Originally posted by pmurf1:
<STRONG>I should have said that my double shackle set up is on an 85 Runner, so it's probably different on the newer trucks. Looks like it from the picture of the blue SB truck.
Unistrut couplers are 6" or 12" long. Home Depot only has the 6" ones. You can get 12" ones from wholesale plumbing, electrical houses for pretty cheap and drill your own holes. They're 1/4" thick, so they're great for shackle material. I don't notice any side to side movement or unloading on mine. It takes quite a bit of droop to unload them. The anti inversion piece I welded on looks like it may hit under compression, but it doesn't. The springs are real soft and ride nice for $100.</STRONG>
Yeah, there different. The spring is 51" long. 22" front, 29" back. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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I think he wants a missing link type set up, where the 1st shackle is being used to move the hanger back.Like the write up in the tech section.
 
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