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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Matt, aka bentmetal, came up for a couple days and he helped me finally put together a crossmember and skid plate for my 40.

The plate will be bolted the tubing using countersunk 3/8 bolts!

Here are some pics!







 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some more...





 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
and some more....





And some Bling Bling!! :flipoff2:

 

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Looks damn good! (saved all the pics...) :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
proffitt'scruisers said:
Looks great. Did you weld nuts in the frame or do you have to fight your hand in to hold them?
Thanks Jeremiah. The tubing uses the same holes/nuts that the stock skidplate used to attach to the frame. We had to cut holes so the side tubing would sit flush up on the frame rails, over the rivets. The tubes are 1/4" walled and are tapped to accept the 3/8" counter sunk bolts, 5 on each rail.

I got a thorough lesson in welding and cutting with plasma from Matt the past 2 days!!:cool:
 

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that's a nice crossmember and skid plate...looks great...the third picture has me concerned though...looks like that rear pinion is rotated waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much...especially if you have any spring wrap to deal with...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SpongeMan said:
that's a nice crossmember and skid plate...looks great...the third picture has me concerned though...looks like that rear pinion is rotated waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much...especially if you have any spring wrap to deal with...
Hehe, good eye. :D The springs perches are not even welded at this point and the drive shaft is my old front drive shaft only bolted up for mock up purposes. That whole rear axle will be coming out in the next week or so and gets rebuilt, an ARB and RDBs. The drive shafts will be done last, probably by High Angle!
 

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damn dude.. i havent even unloaded all the equiptment from the truck and you have been taking pics.. you were supposed to keep working...so the " project " can be completed some day... get all your cyphering done on that scout ps box and your rear axle location and front perches so i can weld it all up in one day next time...

amazing what you can do when someone drives up with $5K worth of equiptment to your garage for a day..

i actually think i had 5 k of equiptment in a truck that is worth 5 k

:confused:

NOW GET BACK TO WORK..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bentmetal said:
damn dude.. i havent even unloaded all the equiptment from the truck and you have been taking pics.. you were supposed to keep working...so the " project " can be completed some day... get all your cyphering done on that scout ps box and your rear axle location and front perches so i can weld it all up in one day next time...

amazing what you can do when someone drives up with $5K worth of equiptment to your garage for a day..

i actually think i had 5 k of equiptment in a truck that is worth 5 k

:confused:

NOW GET BACK TO WORK..
Dude, I did a bunch more work after you left, including installing the gas pedal, most of the linkages from the gas pedal to the carb, mounted the carb, drilled the rest of those holes and start tapping the holes for the bolts. Broke the damn tap holder tool after 2 holes got tapped - off to get a new one tommorrow. I also started messing with the GM tilt column and the stock set up and looks like it'll be an easy mod.

Thanks again for the help, I guess I actually did most of the helping :D Hopefully you'll get a good night sleep tonight since my bro in law isn't around to set off the fire alarm at 3am!! :flipoff2:
 

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Sean,
Looks great!!! I like it!
might want to run some supports on the plate from side to side, it bends alot easier than you might think. I put nearly 1/2" bend in my skid plate before bracing with a floor jack just testing out the skid plate.

Also, what is up with the front driveshaft flange? Looks like three flanges sandwiched in there?
 

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Sean,

Looks great. Not to hijack here but what GM column are you using and how are you attaching it through the firewall and to the steering shaft?

Thanks,
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
cruiserbrett said:
Sean,
Looks great!!! I like it!
might want to run some supports on the plate from side to side, it bends alot easier than you might think. I put nearly 1/2" bend in my skid plate before bracing with a floor jack just testing out the skid plate.

Also, what is up with the front driveshaft flange? Looks like three flanges sandwiched in there?
Brett,

I noticed that on the flange as I was attaching the drive shaft. Like the rear it was just bolted up for mock up, and to make the pinion angle is okay, which it is! I thought it was part of a pinion flange stuck on there, but I couldn't it off, and frankly I didn't even try. It is part of some driveshaft parts I picked up somewhere which includes a couple of mini CVs and flange parts.

We debated the supports going side to side, but I just haven't really figured that out yet with out going up and over stuff. Still in the realm of possibilities!!

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
oakley said:
Sean,

Looks great. Not to hijack here but what GM column are you using and how are you attaching it through the firewall and to the steering shaft?

Thanks,
Greg
Greg,

I got an old 79 Trans AM for 36 bills off of eBay, it included what used to be a nice steering wheel and the shaft from the end of the column to the steering box. The end actually fits my Scout box, so connecting up the parts may be easier.



The column is a little larger than the 40 column, but will easily fit. I plan on taking the flange on the end of the stock shaft off and enlarging the hole to 2 1/8" (the diameter of the tilt colum is 2") and slipping over the end of the tilt column (the original GM flange will be cut off). The plate that bolts up to the firewall will also get enlarged to 2 1/8". I will put the column in and locate the wheel where I like and then weld the flange onto the column so taht the orginal bolt holes can then be used to hold the column to the firewall plate.

I'll also have to work out a new bracket to bolt underneath the column to hold it to the front of the dash. That's just a matter of drilling a hole and lining up the holes on the tilt column's bracket!!

The Centech Wiring harness I have has instructions for for GM columns included moving the hi beam switch to the column uses the turn signal switch).

I'll tear the column a part some and clean it up and paint it. I lost the key, so I may need to replace the tumbler, and I'll get a nice new grant wheel to throw on there!! Maybe I'll get some new turn signa and tilt adjuster arms too.

HTH
 

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lookin great Sean...another couple years and it'll be ready to wheel! :flipoff2:
 

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My skid plate that I was running until this last surgery session is almost exactly like that and mine never bent.

It would flex, but nothing permanent.

Then again, I just wheel mine to the mall though....
 

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Nice work guys, it's looking good Sean! I have a question on the tcase linkage, how did you bore the hardened rod that engages the front axle? Or is it supplied with the linkage from AA?
 

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Sean -

When you do the final boltup, use realy driveshaft bolts. I have seen those metric 8.8 (JH stamped exactly like the ones in the pic) shear after all the threads get crushed and movement starts.

Just a tip... Might keep you from trying to scrounge up some bolts and replace them at 2 AM in the mud with a small stream running under you.

Can you tell I have BTDT - not my rig though...:flipoff2:

Jim
 
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