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I was just reading the new JP magazine and I saw that www.ctmracing.com has a super joint for the 44's and 60's apparently. made out of 300M. supposedly not broken yet. anyone heard of these before? i think they were over 200 bucks <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> a U joint though!!! ouch!!!
later
bob
 

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good to see others trying to make this work- 200 per joint wow- might be worth it though- thanks for posting up- Jess
 

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yeah....thats all cool but what happens when your joint is stronger than your shafts, or your shafts are stronger and joints are stronger than your R&P....

Would rather have a joint go and save the shafts than save the joing and blow a R$P

course you may not have that problem if running warm hubs of which are still expensive
 

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Originally posted by RockJeep:
<STRONG>i'm sure someone here will say just go 60! </STRONG>
$275 per u-joint ( <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> )and $700 for a full set of alloy shafts sure takes a lot of the sting out of a 60, that's for sure.

The "weakest link" discussion is always an interesting one. In this case what WOULD you prefer to blow first? R&P, alloy axle, mega u-joint, or hub? I'm thinkin' hub hands down as it's the cheapest / easiest to replace, but what if you're running slugs?

And then, at what point DO you finally throw in the 44 towel and move to a 60 or have we finally reached the point where alloy axles / mega u-joint costs outweigh the benefits (or at least make a 60 financially attractive)?

[ 09-30-2001: Message edited by: Eric Ruhl ]
 

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Now that is pretty damn pricey and I thought $100 per joint was pushing it. They did say that they was rebuildable.
 

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I think this product is definatly for a niche market of users who only need slightly more then a stock dana 44, those who will be blowin axles and/or ring and pinion on a regular basis should step up to a 60. It comes down to knowing what you expect and having the common sense to not push the envelop of your equipment. Discresion is the better part of valor(sp?)
 

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I just had a chat with Axle Jack of CTM today. He was driving home from the A.R.C.A event. He told me that his U joints held up in the test rigs at the comp., instead two outer stub axles broke. They were Moser chrome-molly units! 300M stock is about twice the price of 4130 (chrome-molly) and is extremely tough to machine, hence the price. But something else will always break first when using 300M. Many people already have a lot invested in there front D44s (lockers, R&Ps etc.)and don't want to start over with a heavy, expensive D60.One other thing, when a axle or stub breaks just replace it. When a U joint breaks, it often takes out axles and sometimes the ball joints causing the wheel to come off.
Just my thought on it.
 

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Originally posted by RockJeep:
<STRONG>275 each for d44 joints and 300 each for d60 joints.</STRONG>
That is just plain stupid <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
Anybody who would pay that is a real sucker.
How many Spicers could you buy for that, like 28? Good grief <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Reddwarf:
<STRONG>That is just plain stupid <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
Anybody who would pay that is a real sucker.
How many Spicers could you buy for that, like 28? Good grief <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
how many shafts could you replace, at 140 a pop...... every time ive wasted a joint ive taken a shaft too....

so in the last 2 months ive spent 450$ replacing broken joints and shafts......

currently lookin to build a 60...... but this is worth lookin at...
 

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Originally posted by Reynolds:
<STRONG>I just had a chat with Axle Jack of CTM today. He was driving home from the A.R.C.A event. He told me that his U joints held up in the test rigs at the comp., instead two outer stub axles broke. They were Moser chrome-molly units! 300M stock is about twice the price of 4130 (chrome-molly) and is extremely tough to machine, hence the price. But something else will always break first when using 300M. Many people already have a lot invested in there front D44s (lockers, R&Ps etc.)and don't want to start over with a heavy, expensive D60.One other thing, when a axle or stub breaks just replace it. When a U joint breaks, it often takes out axles and sometimes the ball joints causing the wheel to come off.
Just my thought on it.</STRONG>
Yeah, I saw this at ARCA. He WASTED two outer shafts with these joints.

Hmmm, makes you wonder, huh?
 

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They are bad ass joints. And like already said, they went unbroken at ARCA this weekend. I've never seen a Moser axle break like that before. <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Seems to make sense to me.... and I am super CHEAP!


Like was said, if a U joint goes you generally lose one or both shafts on that side....

So that $300 joint basically means you are saving one shaft and the joint every time you break... seems like at $140 a shaft, the guy who broke 2 stub shafts int he ARCA competition just broke even on one joint... and will be ahead of the game next time he breaks...
 

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Gee , I just came on here to ask that same question. I was wondering if anyone had tried these out. Not sure, but these are the oil-lite bushing style joints we are talking about? I know they said they were only for trail use trucks ( if that is a factor to anyone. Wonder if they would work for drive shafts too? Or if anything is in the works.
My problem is I need to stick with 44's because of the rear offset, and low output of the D18. These would be a definate plus to me. Cost???????? what the fawk, its a drop in the bucket. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Mud Lite:
<STRONG>My problem is I need to stick with 44's because of the rear offset, and low output of the D18.</STRONG>
D20 and a centered 60 or keep the 18 and convert a Ford front 60 (high pinion AND the offset you like).

DRM, you're saying alloy axles are a waste of money? The whole reason behind the alloy axles IMO was the ability to survive a blown u-joint but it sounds like you're claiming alloys get wasted just like stock axles when the u-joint blows. From what I've seen with the alloy axles, you blow a 297x and you're out $30. Slap in a new u-joint and you're back on the trail, but put these bad oscars in there and you're back to breaking axles (except now those axles are $$$). It sounds like the approach is to stick to stock outers with these u-joints. If it's gonna break anyway, at least let it be a cheap, short (easy to carry), boneyard replacement. With the alloy inner shaft and the super u-joint you can bet that stock outer is the weak point. Unless you use Superwinch hubs of course <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Interesting stuff!
 

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Originally posted by Eric Ruhl:
<STRONG>D20 and a centered 60 or keep the 18 and convert a Ford front 60 (high pinion AND the offset you like).

DRM, you're saying alloy axles are a waste of money? The whole reason behind the alloy axles IMO was the ability to survive a blown u-joint but it sounds like you're claiming alloys get wasted just like stock axles when the u-joint blows. From what I've seen with the alloy axles, you blow a 297x and you're out $30. Slap in a new u-joint and you're back on the trail, but put these bad oscars in there and you're back to breaking axles (except now those axles are $$$). It sounds like the approach is to stick to stock outers with these u-joints. If it's gonna break anyway, at least let it be a cheap, short (easy to carry), boneyard replacement. With the alloy inner shaft and the super u-joint you can bet that stock outer is the weak point. Unless you use Superwinch hubs of course <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Interesting stuff!</STRONG>
these are my thoughts exactly. I would not run these U-joints if I had alloy inner and outer axles and felt there was a chance of axle breakage. That would defeat any point of cost saving, and for me money is the biggist issue. By using these with stock outers it would be an upgrade over stock, but how much? This definatly falls under my favorite saying, its always something....
 

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Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>Seems to make sense to me.... </STRONG>
I just got off the phone with the guy and he's in the process of having the joints made of the same material, only forged... He said that even the CNC are hella strong. After tearing the ears off the stub shafts and being spit out onto the ground the joints were dusted off the and didn't have a scratch on them.
 
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