Pirate 4x4 banner

21 - 29 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Do you have a part number or any more info regarding the Mazda 323 cap?
Is it plug and play with that engine?
While surprisingly the Microsquirt has a decoder for the factory Swift distributor, I eventually decided I did not want to deal with the pesky distributor sticking out into the firewall.
As you can see, I ended up deciding not to use the Mazda cap and rotor. I do not have the part number I used but I believe I found it on the Zuwharrie forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Starting off with the fuel set up.



That is a genuine Bosch 044 fuel pump. Good for 400hp. They are pretty quiet for an inline pump. coupled with the mount I made that mounts using rubber bushings to the body and the Ebay 65mm mounts for the pump itself. Next to it is a high flow 30 micron post filter and closer to the tank is a 100 micron pre filter.

Turbo coolant return line bung has been welded onto the radiator.



The Nissan T25 gaskets are known to blow out on the down pipe. The forum guys are using liquid copper.



I combined that with some sheet copper from the hobby store.



Here's the rest of the down pipe with the wideband 02 sensor. The guys running this ECU recommend 14point7 Spartan 2 wideband controller. So that's what I got. It also happens to be the cheapest on the market and I am very impressed with the quality.



I invested in some solder connectors along with an assortment of generic weatherpak connectors to make the job as clean as possible.

As I started wiring I quickly found out that I did not have the right TPS sensor. The one that comes on the VG30 throttle body is a TPS switch. So I ended up buying a new one from an SR20 like I tried avoiding in the first place. The throttle body is still the VG30. I think that was still the right choice but had I known it was just a switch I would have bought one without the sensor already on it.

Here is some of the wiring taking form already



You can also see how my coolant hoses turned out. It ended up being kind of expensive to get silicon hose that was 28mm that was also flexible. With it being flexible it is technically considered heater hose as most coolant hoses will be ridged. So I got this stuff from Flex Tech which is a US based company. So no waiting a month for Chinese hose. I am very happy with the quality and delivery time. Worth the money for such a niche product.

More wiring.







 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
So the way I have my ignition panel set up.



Switched power is turned on by a 115amp keyed battery switch with 8 gauge wire. The first switch you see is kind of like a safety switch. It applies power to the actual start button. If its flipped down with the cover you cant accidentally bump the start button and start the vehicle. or even hit the starter with the vehicle running. Second switch is the fuel pump. So more safety features. Easily in reach is a battery cut off switch and a fuel pump cut off switch.

The left light is the dummy oil light and the right light is the warm up circuit for the wide band sensor.

Here is the crank position sensor finally mounted up. I used a Cherry hall effect sensor. Part number GS100502. The companies that sell the ECU also offer hall sensors for about twice the price as Cherry. The one they sell is a Cherry.



It's a tight fit in there but it keeps it neat and away from anything that might potentially damage it. You could put the sensor aligned with any tooth. There is an offset option in the ECU software. However, If you decide to use the complete Ford EDIS system as many Microsquirt users do, you will need to put the sensor in this location as it needs to be 90 degrees BTDC.

There are 3 circuits that can be used to read engine position and 3 sensor types. VR is what most vehicles use. To be honest I am not quite sure what makes it different from a Hall sensor but I do know that it is more subject to electrical noise interference. The Microsquirt has 2 VR sensor circuits that are shielded because of this. I decided not to use a VR sensor because I did not want to deal with noise issues that a lot of people run into. And I did not need VR because I am not using sequential ignition which there would need to be one sensor for the cam and one for the crank. Hence the 2 VR circuits.

I used another single signal wire that is available to use for a basic hall sensor. Except for some reason the ECU would not receive a signal. While using the multi-meter I could see that the sensor was putting out the correct signal.

I decided to switch to using the VR circuit with the hall sensor to see if I could get the signal. Both are supposed to work according to the manual. For some reason though only the VR circuit would pick up the signal. No big deal. I just used that one.

With all the wiring done it was time to try and start the vehicle for the first time. It took a few tweaks to the settings. Mostly with injector dead times and ignition coil charge times. A little to the fuel map. But I did get it started.

HERE is the link to that video.

Now that the engine is running I started cleaning up the wiring.



And I got some final shots of the completed engine.







And another picture of the full vehicle.



I started with a generic AFR table for turbo engines. The fuel map was from a turbo 1.6 Miata. It was pretty close. The auto tune is filling in the gaps pretty well. The ignition map I copied from an available tune on a plug and play ECU made specifically for the Suzuki Swift GTi from Adaptronic. Then I took a few degrees off the top to be safe since I am only running 91 octane fuel.

Right now the turbo is limited to 8psi so I can drive it around safely. I will bring it to the tuner to do the full 15psi tune. Even with 8psi this engine rips. But there are still some things I have to patch up which is to be expected with a bunch of parts that are trying to play together for the first time. One is that I have an oil leak already somewhere near the intake cam. Hopefully not a cam seal but who knows. Also, the turbo is smoking a bit so I am going to look into getting a lower profile drain flange and see if I can assist the drain a bit. Or maybe the cheap Chinese turbo has bad seals? I am also considering going to a slightly smaller turbo as this one does not start building boost until 4k RPM which is much high than I expected. On the plus side though, the turbo is on full boost at 6500 RPM which is where the engine makes peak power. So it is really fast in that range. I also cooked 2 clutch cables but I think I got that sorted.

HERE is a video of the 8100 RPM redline.

and HERE is 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear getting up to about 50 MPH

Unfortunately, I only got to drive it for about 3 days before I moved out of Utah and left it there. Trying to decide what to do with it at this point. So for now the engine build is on pause.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Nice engine build... I did something very similar on a previous build with main differences being I used the 1.6L block instead and toyota coil on plugs and the OEM suzuki 36-2-2-2 crank sprocket with built on trigger wheel which the microsquirt can read.

Whats your final power goal once dialed in'?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Nice engine build... I did something very similar on a previous build with main differences being I used the 1.6L block instead and toyota coil on plugs and the OEM suzuki 36-2-2-2 crank sprocket with built on trigger wheel which the microsquirt can read.

Whats your final power goal once dialed in'?
I did not want to use a Suzuki 1.6 crank sprocket because that usually requires the oil pump to be changed out as well. The G13B oil pump has a higher output due to the higher revs so I felt it best to use the special oil pump.

For the coil I considered using COPs but I want this to be reliable and as easy to get parts for as possible. If the coil fails, just about every junkyard has 90's Fords with this coil. Same can be said ford the LS coils but they tend to be more desirable and the junkyards are catching on.

Being generous I would say 250hp. There is a build I modeled pretty closely that was dynoing pretty close to that in a Swift. I have a bigger turbo and higher compression pistons than him so it should be possible. However, I think I can conservatively say 215hp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Little update. After only about 20hrs of use the Bosch LSU 4.9 wide band sensors seems to have failed. I have to do some tests to make sure that's the real issue. I don't think its the controller.

Also, the stage 2 clutch does not hold above 7000 rpm. Trying to figure out what to do with that . Don't necessarily want to change to a stage 3 as I like the feel of the stage 2. Maybe a stronger pressure plate will be sufficient?
 
21 - 29 of 29 Posts
Top