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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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Why not use the speedo in the 231 tail housing?
I didn't think the 231 used a square wave signal like the abs system used, but after some googling it looks like it does. So tap into that and run a signal converter to get the speedo to read correctly and you should be good to go unless I'm missing something stupid
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Honestly one area I've never taken the time to fully understand the signal patterns and which ones are different, and why they're different. Thanks for the help there, I've got to get myself understanding it all!

Carolina, thankfully this pitman arm involved no broken tools this time haha. The 1 ton ZJ I built a couple years back ended up breaking an arm off a pitman arm puller, it hit the back wall of the garage before I even knew what happened, glad it went in a safe direction hah!

Beat95YJ, the frame rails will be getting plated when I pull the coilovers one last time. I have the mounts in place, will plate around them and plate to the mounts so the load will be distributed nicely.

j mazala thanks for all the info, I've got some reading to do!
 

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Looking good. Iv built 100's of 231's, 241's, 242's, etc, but I'm no help on the electrical.

I can't believe people these days, they will steal anything. In my country, they would be dead.
 

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Front is 14" 250 over 16" 350
Rear is 12" 250 over 14" 350.

With the spring rate calculator, it gives it an overall spring rate of 177, which is softer than most aftermarket springs in production.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I've got a decent update for you guys! I wrapped up today by getting the final subtle bends in the track bar and UCA, and tacking the frame side UCA in place. The axle is fully located now, and I started having some fun with it

This build gets the same track bar bracket as my 609 build, this gets track bar positioned perfectly, as high as I can get it for stability and roll resistance at speed


I put it as close to the knuckle as possible, full lock things get close together but have plenty of clearance for things to never contact. Actually having the tie rod on the knuckle instead of high steer arm gives us an adjustable drag link, I have it on the inner hole right now for quick steering. I'm going to adjust the steering stops until the u-joints almost bind, so this thing will be able to steer as tight as possible.


Little side project, any of you into volkswagens? I have a friend that is just getting ready to start making narrowed VW beams for various years/models, I've been doing the cad and torchmate work on the bracketry :D


Back to the WJ, this is before I put slight bends in the track bar and drag link. Both have bends, probably somewhere between 5-10* Just enough, and with 1.5" .250 there's no strength worry.


I went in halves on a used Lincoln precision tig 185 with one of the other guys in the shop, it is fun! I've never tigged before but always figured I would have a good feel for it because of the class I took years ago involving oxyacetalyne welding...I must say it's fun! This is a peice of exhaust tube, the nice smooth section is where I joined with no filler metal, I would definately have to go back over it with a layer of filler but it looked so nice :flipoff2:


Anywho here are the pics from the end of today, fully attatched and flexing


You can see the track bar and drag link with the slight bends in this pic


 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I've been making good progress on this thing lately. Let me show you guys what I've been up to.

Geared the front HP44




And built the front 16" coilovers with 16" lower and 14" upper coils.


Made a 3/8" steering spacer and milled the knuckle so the tie rod and drag link nut would not contact


Wrapped up the housing, drilled a hole in the casting for the elocker cables to pass through, painted it and sealed things up.


Things removed for final prep, getting ready to go back in.


Coilovers in place, axle sitting with weight on it with no frame jack stands


New hardware bling
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
This axle was apparently hacked together to sell to the owner of this jeep. Apparently one of the axles they used to replace OEM was about 1" longer than it needed to be, so they chopped it off the end (crookedly)


And the seal at one point ran near my right finger. Now it's riding near my left finger, completely off the seal surface.


So I chucked it up in the lathe, extended the seal surface and smoothed the end of the axle shaft.


Painted the yokes and installed new u-joints


New Timken races, bearings and seals for both hubs. New Dorman 610-279 studs for hte hubs, though one hub has apparently been abused more than the other and had a few wallowed out stud holes.




Full lock to factory steering stops, not bad for 37"s and a full bodied rig. Trimming is in order for sure.




Just today I got the jeep set down on it's own weight for the first time. Looks facking mean, and should perform the part. I reinstalled the trans computer, overflow tank and battery, fired it up and turned lock to lock, steering doesn't feel all that bad for what it is.




I've still got to install the 32 spline Advanced Adapters SYE and modify the driveshafts, then this thing is about ready to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks bud. I got the 32 spline SYE installed, driveshafts rebult with new joints all around, Plumbed the front brakes, and almost have the rears plumbed. Need to final install the rear hub nuts and axleshafts, and fix the fawked up front hub nuts that have the locking pin sheared off. Once those small things are done this thing is ready to be driven!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Nah, not for that quick job. I had no problem matching the diameter of the factory seal surface and polishing it up to match. Granted by the general rule of thumb I should have needed one but I didn't have any issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Crossmember is still cut up. It's going to get an additional couple bolt holes per side for now, but a new crossmember is in the future.

I plumbed the brakes, rebuilt the driveshafts, installed the AA SYE and went for a quick test drive. The brakes still need another bleeding and the front right caliper bracket has a toasted bolt hole, so a replacement is on the way. The owner will be taking it home this weekend!

Also swapped the new coils onto the rear so the dual rate slider doesn't try to unseat


On the quick test drive I found some rocks. It flexes nice, tires do not contact coilovers in the rear for those who were wondering. It is definately in need of a massive amount of trimming though. Oh and the shocks need to be filled with nitrogen




It's only touching everywhere at the same time haha.
 
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