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Discussion Starter #41
I just looked through my pic assortment and didn't see any that could specifically help you, though I know they are around here somewhere. Things are a tight fit under the TCM on the passenger side, and the master cylinder on the drivers side.

Marc did snap some recent pics though, he's heading up to the Rubicon tomorrow.




And a cool droop pic, tires still on the ground
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Because that radiator, condenser, and lower rad support are not long for this world. We're going to be putting a 5.2 ZJ radiator in like I did in my jeep. Thicker core, but shorter by 3-4" so the lowest part of the frame rails will become the new bottom much higher than it used to be. Once we have the radiator handled, I'll be building tube bumpers with as much clearance as possible.
 

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Here are some pictures of the engine bay.

Drivers side is easier to see.



Passenger side. Its hard to see, but its bare metal



View from the top. Its right under the computer.

 

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Discussion Starter #46
Awesome pics Marc, glad the first trip went so well for ya! The rubicon looks like it's still got some fun sections. Soupbowl has always been a favorite. As soon as my doubler is done, might have to make a trip back out there. I didn't wheel the con last year for the first time in 5-6 years, I was a little disappointed with the stories and pictures I saw of the flattening. Fordyce has still been just as enjoyable though, definitely the next trail you need to hit!
 

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Whenever you go out, let me know.

As soon as Joe fixes his toyota, I'll hopefully get some more trips out. I've never taken my jeep to fordyce, but it is an awesome place to wheel.
 

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Oh, the rambling about to happen:

I'm about to ask a very bad newbie question, and I apologize, but... Why do guys that go heavy duty always make slip yokes go AWAY? Doesn't that limit travel in some way that would be advantageous?

Man, I've been following your various threads for a year or more now. You're like...the ultimate Jeep-world builder because you just plain make things happen.

When you put that ZJ rad in to gain front end clearance do you slice off that little under-piece and replace it with some plate or some box or something? That seems like a pretty easy/great mod for pretty much any WJ looking to get into trouble on purpose.

I'm sure I had more to say but i can't remember now. Reading this entire thread in one sitting has fried what was left of my brain this evening.

AWESOME work.
 

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Oh, the rambling about to happen:

I'm about to ask a very bad newbie question, and I apologize, but... Why do guys that go heavy duty always make slip yokes go AWAY? Doesn't that limit travel in some way that would be advantageous?
It is a common thing with most jeeps to do a slip yoke eliminator(sye) it removes the yoke front the transfer case and puts it into a driveshaft so you can run beffier ujoints on both ends. Plus the option of long spline driveshafts.
Hope my 22 hours of being awake answer cleared the question up for ya :flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Thanks man! I don't have any current pics of the WJ, but it's looking about the smae right now. The owner has actually been making some noise about bringing it back down for that next round of upgrades - V8 ZJ radiator, chopped core support and a new front bumper. I'll definitely update when that time comes!

I know the post is super old but just for verification Ravie - we don't completely eliminate the slip yoke, we just remove the slip from the driveshaft-transfer case mating splines, and put the slip in the middle of the driveshaft similar to most front driveshafts. One of the big benefits is the fact that it allows you to easily run a double cardan CV joint at the tcase, and doing so seals the rear output of your transfer case entirely, so you can even drive without a driveshaft if necessary in the worst-case scenario
 

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I'm holding the LCA mount around where it will be, UCA mount relatively close to final position. We'll see what happens with fuel and brake lines



Silly question, where did you end up placing the upper control arm since all the brake and fuel likes run in that side of the frame? Thanks
 

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Right there :D. Was able to tuck all the lines above the mount, between it and the floor.
Lol

I was thinking of using the clayton crossmember with the integrated LCA brakets( it places the lower arms around same area you used)
I figured I'd place the upper 3rd link on the passenger side to avoid the lines but, I might just try to move them too.

Did you reinforced the "chassis"
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I think I reinforced the chassis there? I need to fire up an old computer to see if there are pics that never made it online lol.

With the upper link on the drivers side you have to keep clear of the driveshaft and lines, upper link on the passenger side you have to rework the exhaust. If you're going to do the upper link on the non-pumpkin side of the axle, make sure you have the tubes welded or trussed so it doesn't want to spin on you.
 

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I think I reinforced the chassis there? I need to fire up an old computer to see if there are pics that never made it online lol.

With the upper link on the drivers side you have to keep clear of the driveshaft and lines, upper link on the passenger side you have to rework the exhaust. If you're going to do the upper link on the non-pumpkin side of the axle, make sure you have the tubes welded or trussed so it doesn't want to spin on you.
I was planning on welding the tubes, Ill look into bending the lines and hopefully getting it to work that way. Thanks for the help
 

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Discussion Starter #57
No problem! Just unsnap the plastic connectors that hold them into the frame rails, and you can flex them without actually putting any new bends anywhere. Honestly now looking back, I could have taken a snap connector (like the black one the lines are clicked into in the pic you linked), and just drilled a new hole in the floorboard above the mount to snap it into. Then just assemble it with silicone to keep it sealed, and then you're done and they're held in place for you!
 

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I did exactly what AP did. Drilled 2 holes in the floorboard and used the factory plastic connectors and it worked great. Brake and fuel lines sit flush against the floorboard. This is for the rear. Front upper is on passenger side for me.
 

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No problem! Just unsnap the plastic connectors that hold them into the frame rails, and you can flex them without actually putting any new bends anywhere. Honestly now looking back, I could have taken a snap connector (like the black one the lines are clicked into in the pic you linked), and just drilled a new hole in the floorboard above the mount to snap it into. Then just assemble it with silicone to keep it sealed, and then you're done and they're held in place for you!
I went under the jeep today to look at it and I was playing around the clips, though I got to tell you, it seemed like the passanger side has a lil more space to run a third link.

Unrelated question, I think I seen a post by you regarding the 05+ dana 60 unit bearing Working out with the wj if you run 37's. I realize that wj gets the speed and abs from the wheel sensors, what about the transmission?, or changes in gears? Also assuming that they could communicate with each other, what would you recommend to adjust for tire size so that everything runs ok?

I already picked up a 05+ dana60/sterling set with some artec goodies, also I got some SD 17" steel wheels, that I plan to run 37's with a DIY beadlocks. My question is; What else do I need to keep the electronic aspect of the swap happy?
I saw your thread in jeepforums, and all I can say is that you sir are bad ass!
 
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