Any divorced tcase diesel rigs out there?

899 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by LANDABUSER, 2 mo ago

stpackard

Hey Guys, wanted to ask how you set your stuff up for optimum intermediate/rear DS operation , and if you have driveline drama during high load?

With truck in signature stock height (4" blocks rear spring over axle), set trans to tcase angles (OCD) equal using digital angle finder. Rechecked angles and things have settled since the swap, need to shim engine mounts up a bit to make up for about .2 degrees off equal. Intermediate DS is around 2 degrees down. Retained original motor offset toward PA side, drivelines straight with the frame.

Tom's 1350 intermediate, original ford DS in the rear with the 1310/1330 combo ford joints. Haven't upgraded rear DS, waiting for some time to swap in a 10.25 been working on with double cardan 1350shaft and traction bars. NV4500 ratios suck but am sticking with it for now.

There's wheel hop and during load/acceleration or at lower rpm in direct, significant driveline hum but no vibrations. Drives fine around town but out on the road is where I'd like to optimize. At cruise into 45 mph headwind it was humming and balking but the engine handled it fine. Took vids of pinion angle during acceleration, not too terrible but a fair amount of axle wrap. All gear boxes I rebuilt using shop manuals, good parts and measurements. Didn't notice much of any of this with the 390 but the diesel is a different animal and am probably more fussy this time around.

Divorced 205 has bushed poly mounts but no torque rod support.

Was hoping there'd be a simple fix(es)? What has worked for you on your divorced rig.
Appreciatively
Sam

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shark fisherman

· #2 · 2 mo ago

Make sure the pinion angle is properly set. You mentioned that you shimmed the engine mounts to correct the angle, but it may be worth double-checking the angle with a digital angle finder. The correct pinion angle will help reduce vibrations and improve driveline performance. Hope this answer is useful to you

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stpackard

Discussion Starter · #3 · 2 mo ago

Appreciate your response! Spicer says angles have to be equal within .5 degrees. I'm out by .2 degrees. PITA to have to drain coolant and disconnect a bunch of stuff to raise engine up off mounts and shim. Suspecting original drive shaft and double checking transfer case bearings.

With the 10.25 swap and new perches, I'm planning on -1 degree pinion angle with a DC drive shaft and standard traction bars. If I weren't running traction bars it'd probably be -2 to -3.

Original intermediate shaft was a large diameter shaft. This Tom's intermediate is standard diameter. I have read some places that intermediate are supposed to be large diameter. Appreciate it if anyone has input on large dia vs. standard dia intermediate shafts.

shark fisherman said:
Make sure the pinion angle is properly set. You mentioned that you shimmed the engine mounts to correct the angle, but it may be worth double-checking the angle with a digital angle finder. The correct pinion angle will help reduce vibrations and improve driveline performance. Hope this answer is useful to you

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LANDABUSER

· #4 · 2 mo ago

Make sure your intermediate drive shaft is clocked the same as the rear. This will need to be done every time the TC is put in neutral.

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