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Discussion Starter #1
looking at building my own front four link for my sammy and was wondering if anybody had any pics or input id like to get enough lift to run 35s
 

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Absolutely insane:laughing: I know theres a bunch of them on here I think a search might turn up a few.

O and ps thats the rear of my sami but the front is identical
 

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There's no way you can garage build a 4 link susp. They need to be setup with super close tolerances that is just impossible to achieve with out lasers, robots and jigs.
 

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I know theres a bunch of them on here I think a search might turn up a few.
My search didnt come up with any but yours valley! I could find posts that said they had them. But I didnt find one build THREAD with custon link susp on a sammy.

I am doing mine right now! But I wont be putting up pics till I am further along and ready to buy a red star. I need every dollar my wife will give up right now. If you can, Build it yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got to hold in my hands and look at a rocky road kit. The upper rear Y-link is made out of .120 wall tubing with a nut BUTT WELDED to the tube! Thats for $1500 bucks! I have 4140 1.5 inch .500 inch wall DOM for my links and I have no where near the 1500 dollar budget cap into it yet.
 

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got the parts for the front but im still figuring :confused:

heres some of the rear , that was the FIRST thing i did to it after i cut the back off, not including framerails.














 

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heres some of the rear , that was the FIRST thing i did to it after i cut the back off, not including framerails.









 

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Discussion Starter #10
i think im gonna leave my rear leaf spring for now but i was wondering if i could do a trianglated four link in the front maybe.. ive never seen one ive always seen them like the rocky road kit with the upper link bars coming off the lower links . i think i might try this way with the lower bars made out if square stock with just some bushings made up ? and for the upper bars i have some with hiem joints already made up
 

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ive got a ton i took at disney labor day
because i am going to copy a design for my hydro front.

im tired ill do it tommorow cuz they havent been transfered to photobucket.

and thats the only way i know how to post.
 

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You can't do a triangulated 4-link front unless you have full hydro, or else you'll have bump steer.
 

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Mines triangulated four link in the front( I am full hydro) It works fine, getting the upper links to clear the output shaft is kind of a pain and the exhuast on the other side. Its well worth is though, I will never go back to leaf springs
 

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Hey Flea... Do you experience much body roll with the wishbone rear? Just curious, I might do a 3 link wishbone on my current build.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
so should i build the links out of hiem joints with some highmisalignment spacers( i think thats what there called ) or should i just use some bushings. i will be doing mainly trails but may see some pavement
 

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when i go to build mine this winter i will be using a bushing on one end and a jimmy joint on the other. and the the pan hard bar will be two hiem joints! that how the RE long arms are and i never had a problem with them!
 

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yes i do actualy but not enough to add a panhard.


im gonna try valley's front design in my buddys program on his puter.

dont suppose you have lenght of your front links and width between both points?
handy do ya v.a?
 

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A well thought out panhard bar with lots of room for travel is not the end of the world. Its designed to center the axle no matter where it is the supension cycle. If you don't want to spend all day making one and just weld on a bracket this one's not bad for the money
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com....html?osCsid=aff905cb5309ae68a95104d710a44df8

I ran a four link in the rear on my setup and its design tends to be one of less popularity and has a lot of nay sayers. Not a lot of triangulation in the lowers but for my purposes its what I wanted.
A couple of simple basics most of you will get from searching is the lowers need to be as long as you can get them within reason. Try to keep them relatively level avoiding steep angles. Leave room in your bracketry for adjustability.
As far as what joints to use depends on street use or not, budget personal preference and so on. I ran JJ joints all the way around because that way I only need to carry one spare.
 

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