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As I sit here daydreaming about that cool 35 spline disk 60 MONSTER under my truck - just curious if the extra loss of ground clearance from a 44 actually gains anything?

On that note - can I see your shaved pig? <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

I got the HD model so that means more casting to grind...

[ 09-27-2001: Message edited by: Brandon ]
 

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Originally posted by Brandon:
<STRONG>As I sit here daydreaming about that cool 35 spline disk 60 MONSTER under my truck - just curious if the extra loss of ground clearance from a 44 actually gains anything?

On that note - can I see your shaved pig? <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

I got the HD model so that means more casting to grind...

[ 09-27-2001: Message edited by: Brandon ]</STRONG>
hmmm. lets see, you have broken, what, one birf?? man, i can't see you having any problems with that D44 even with the new motor.. if nec, go alloy shafts.. Thats what i plan on doing with my RC44...
 

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Ya, i noticedthat after i posted, DOH!!!

well, if you are going to run at least 38's, i would go 60, but I prefer the 44 myself..
with alloy shafts, it will hold up well, and with the way you drive, it will be fine..
 

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I broke a couple axles on a 44, but as soon as I went FF I have never broken another. FF 30 spline 44 will hold up to alot of abuse, especially with alloy shafts
 

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Ask Wheelinjp to post the pic of his sheared off rear dana 44 pinion. It happened a couple months ago at Evan Creek ORV area here in WA.

The pinion snapped clean off. The jeep only did two little bounces on a very steep loose rock face then SNAP!
We got it on video <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">

He runs a sbc350, auto, and 36s w/ lockers.

He IS going to a dana 60 rear cause he now has one with 4.88s and a 40 spline spool sitting in the garage.
 

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what benefit do you get running a foater alloy shaft VS a non float?? I know you can turn the hubs out unless you use a spline cap, but is there any benefits as in strength
 

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I have broke a few rear d44's. The heavy ass scout doesn't help. The spyders are the first to go . I broke one with 3.73s and 31" tires!
 

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Originally posted by Brandon:
<STRONG>well I allready got the 60, just curious why everyone goes 60 (I am talkin bout the rear not the front)</STRONG>
I think it's as much for the stronger (1.5") axle shafts as it is for the stronger R&P.

4.09 '44s are a bit weaker than 3.73.. and it just gets worse as you stop from 4.56 down to 4.88.

The 60 would make sure the weak link isn't the R&P. As much as a broken axle shaft would suck on the trail, grenaded gears would suck worse.

Not as big of a deal up front, since (in theory, anyhow) most of the time the front, on average, has to share the engine output with the rear axle. But when in typical 2wd-Rear, the rear end sees ALL of it.

My owner's manual specifically states to NEVER use 4-low without the front hubs turned in.

Not that I follow that rule. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I've seen someone blow both the front and rear gears out in a pair of D44s before - at once. Not pretty. Nor cheap.

I think they were running 4.88s at the time and probably had the 38x11 Boggers on.

Then again, I also watched that rig stretch the U-bolts until the pinion pointed at the sky.. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

I don't think it was from a lack of maintenance.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Tankota:
<STRONG>Ask Wheelinjp to post the pic of his sheared off rear dana 44 pinion. It happened a couple months ago at Evan Creek ORV area here in WA.

The pinion snapped clean off. The jeep only did two little bounces on a very steep loose rock face then SNAP!
We got it on video <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">

He runs a sbc350, auto, and 36s w/ lockers.

He IS going to a dana 60 rear cause he now has one with 4.88s and a 40 spline spool sitting in the garage.</STRONG>
ya, but you ever seen him drive, oh, did i say that outloaud???
J/k sean..
 

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Okay Crash, he does enjoy the go pedal a little <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
but who doesn't?
When he broke the pinion he wasn't really doing much...that is why it was quite surprising.

I've got a pic from a couple years ago at the entrance of the 311 trail at evans (when it was a wet wall of rock and mud) where he did a huge smoke show (tire smoke...not engine smoke) and made it up by drying out the rocks.

A one to two minute burnout really cleaned off and dried off his path up the rocks <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

The framed picture sits above the "porcelain throne" at his place. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Crash:
<STRONG>what benefit do you get running a foater alloy shaft VS a non float?? I know you can turn the hubs out unless you use a spline cap, but is there any benefits as in strength</STRONG>
Many people will claim that there isnt a great benefit to floaters, but I believe that there is. With a FF axle the shaft is not carrying any of the weight of the vehicle. It is simply driving the wheel. I personally run a flanged floater so that I dont have the notorious outer spline weak spot associated with FF axles

[ 09-27-2001: Message edited by: RCKRATZ ]
 

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Oh yah, I almost forgot the blown spider gears in Wheelinjps dana 44 in the driveway <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Just an excuse to buy a locker, right sean? <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

What were we doing anyway, were we checking axle wrap? (I think you had just finished the springover)
 

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Originally posted by RCKRATZ:
<STRONG>
Many people will claim that there isnt a great benefit to floaters, but I believe that there is. With a FF axle the shaft is not carrying any of the weight of the vehicle. It is simply driving the wheel. I personally run a flanged floater so that I dont have the notorious outer spline weak spot associated with FF axles
</STRONG>
Have you had any problems with the housing bending? I think the SF housings are generally a thinner-wall tubing than the FF housings - because the axle shaft carries some of the weight, not JUST the housing.

When you go FF, I think you're increasing the leverage on the housing, which wasn't designed for it.

I was thinking of the FF kit for a while and figured if I did, I'd first truss the housing to add some strength to it.

Turns out it was the front housing that needed the truss first.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Should have the new front end in a week - trussed.
 

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I know a guy who busted 2 ring gears in a rear 44 but he had a very heavy right foot. I have never had a problem with mine and I have 5.38. But then again I prefer to lock it down into 3500000000000:1 and just crawl. I have heard that scout rears are nutorious for bent housings, Im putting a truss on mine. <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Have you had any problems with the housing bending? I think the SF housings are generally a thinner-wall tubing than the FF housings - because the axle shaft carries some of the weight, not JUST the housing.

When you go FF, I think you're increasing the leverage on the housing, which wasn't designed for it.

I was thinking of the FF kit for a while and figured if I did, I'd first truss the housing to add some strength to it.

Turns out it was the front housing that needed the truss first.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> Should have the new front end in a week - trussed.</STRONG>
I haven't had a problem with the housing bending, but that may also be because I have a CJ-5, which we all know is a pretty lightweight rig. It may (I have no idea) be a problem on rigs with significantly more weight.
 
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