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Discussion Starter #1
You know, the cheap drill and tap one. I plan on running up to 35 (possibly 36" SX off road) on this t-case. I know a JB or AA unit is stronger, but if I went this route is it really a weak point?

-Bart
 

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Ask rockbuggy on this forum, he's running the RE kit with 38.5 swampers and hasnt broken it yet. I also plan on running this kit with 37" ssr's.
Just my thoughts.
Scott <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0"><><
 

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I have that kit on my YJ I have been prety hard on it I think.. It holds up fine and I love it, I was affordable and easy to install, I would have no fear of running it with 38's..I ran it with 35's forever and will run it with 37 boggers.. I say go for its not gonna break to easy.. <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
 
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I have worried about mine breaking because it seems kinda cheap, but no problems so far. I'm also going to 36's in the spring, and I won't worry about it until (if) it breaks. Then I'll upgrade.

I'm assuming you're going to up the lift to fit those things <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">. I have the 4.5" RE and 1" body, and I still almost rub with 33's on max stuffage. I'll need to get a small spacer too to fit the 36's
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh, no doubt I will have to change lifts. Just wanted to hear your opinions of the SYE. Sounds like everyone feels like me - that it really is not a weak point.

-Bart
 

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well, Tom woods has deals on shafts and SYE's...the price differance between the RE SYE and driveshaft is not that much different than the woods SYE and shaft...check out his web page....www.4x4shafts.com
 

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Seen a guy running 35s in an SOA YJ with a 9 inch rear break the output shaft. Seen many more guys throttle the hell out of it with 35s and have no problem.
 

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Ive had my RE SYE on my Jeep for about 3 years. Its never given me any problems.. I ran it for about 2 years running 35" BFG's, now im running 38.5" TSL's and still no problems. and im not easy on it either, it gets its fair-share of bashing! I also added a Tera Low 4 to 1 kit in mine and I hear that adds some strength to the 231.
 

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BTW: My bros running a np-231 with JB's heavy-duty kit and he's running a 383ci stroker with 400hp. Last weekend we were using the Jeep to pull out a stump. It had all 4 boggers rippin loose on dry road. didnt even faze the t-case. he's never had problem with his.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Couple of things:

When you see the stock output shaft bend, is it because somebody was driving it with vibes and beat it until it was bent? That can happen if you do not fix vibrations and just drive with them.

I looked at the Tom Woods deal. Is it better? It is really just a modified stock output shaft, right? That means it was cut and elded or something, so the heat treat has been affected. If it is not a stock shaft, why do you get such a good core discount? It is the same size as stock, right?

I have no problem with spending the money, but if it is not a weak point, I will put that same money towards getting this crappy D35 out of my Jeep.


Thanks for all the help.
-Bart
 

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Originally posted by bart:
<STRONG>Couple of things:

When you see the stock output shaft bend, is it because somebody was driving it with vibes and beat it until it was bent? That can happen if you do not fix vibrations and just drive with them.

I looked at the Tom Woods deal. Is it better? It is really just a modified stock output shaft, right? That means it was cut and elded or something, so the heat treat has been affected. If it is not a stock shaft, why do you get such a good core discount? It is the same size as stock, right?

I have no problem with spending the money, but if it is not a weak point, I will put that same money towards getting this crappy D35 out of my Jeep.


Thanks for all the help.
-Bart</STRONG>
The TW kit is a whole differnt output.
It's beefier than the stock unit and not too much trouble to install.
Me and my Wife have the hack and tap RE jobbers and I beat the hell out of mine no problems so far. I'd say go with what works and what you can afford. One nice thing bout the JB etc.. is you gain a little over an inch or so more length on the shaft.
Not really that big a deal but I have a bud with a D60 rear in his TJ and it helped alleviate vibes. As for that other fella saying RE was cheap after I cut and tapped mine it looked just like the output on my Toyota transfer, I'm sure there are lot's of other vehicles that use this setup.
 

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There's a lot to be said for the peace of mind you get after having selected the stronger of various options. Six months from now, the added cost of the beefier shaft you get in a SYE kit from Bayou Geep, JB, or AA will be long forgotten.

I'm not saying the RE would necessarily break, I'm just saying there's added peace of mind by always choosing the stronger/better of the options you're deciding among. I do some flying and I make it a point to never go for the cheaper solution... too many "cheaper solutions" will add up and make you nervous when at 10,000' in heavy turbulence or half-way up Sledgehammer! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 08-31-2001: Message edited by: Jerry Bransford ]
 

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I run the Tom Woods version of the SYE. It is just a mainshaft that has already been cut and tapped for a bolt. He takes a returned core, cuts it and taps it. The output cone is also cut and fitted with a seal. Therefore you lose an inch or two verses other SYE kits. The shaft I pulled out of my T case was larger in diameter at the point where the planetary sits than the one he sent me. The one he sent me had to utilize 2 flat bearings (included) on the shaft to make up for the size difference. I hammer the shit out of it and it still hasn't broken yet. Just a matter of time then I will get an Atlas II.
If you go with the TW kit get the Premium D-shaft. It will have a longer splined slip shaft.
 

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when it comes to your driveshafts, this is not the time to cut corners and risk distroying the undercarage of your jeep. Have you ever had a D-shaft break loose at any speed? it is not a pretty site! RE is pure $hit! spend the extra dough and buy something good. shop around, there are tons of places. <IMG SRC="smilies/bender.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by bart:
<STRONG>Couple of things:

When you see the stock output shaft bend, is it because somebody was driving it with vibes and beat it until it was bent? That can happen if you do not fix vibrations and just drive with them.

I looked at the Tom Woods deal. Is it better? It is really just a modified stock output shaft, right? That means it was cut and elded or something, so the heat treat has been affected. If it is not a stock shaft, why do you get such a good core discount? It is the same size as stock, right?

I have no problem with spending the money, but if it is not a weak point, I will put that same money towards getting this crappy D35 out of my Jeep.


Thanks for all the help.
-Bart</STRONG>
Bart,

I doubt it was out of balance or had vibes because in both cases the TJ was still stock, no lift at all. And, they weren't really bashing it super hard either time it happened.

Tom sells both types, you have to make sure you get the one with the 241 output shaft if you want to get the stronger unit. He does sell one that is simply a shaft that's already been cut (there's an article about that one in the latest Sport Utility and 4x4).

I got my JB built SYE from www.afm4x4.com for $259 and had my driveshaft built locally. This way if I do have a shaft problem I can go to the local shop for repairs or replacement and don't have to deal with shipping it.
 

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Dude, don't even sweat it. Something in your 35 will go first. If not, then it will be the straps on your 35 yoke.
 

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I have two years of bashing the RE SYE, with no problems. Granny geared tranny, SOA, and 35"s.
 

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Originally posted by massey2jeep:
<STRONG>Dude, don't even sweat it. Something in your 35 will go first. If not, then it will be the straps on your 35 yoke.</STRONG>
HAHAHA!! Good eye! "it's twue! it's twue!"
 
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