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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My rear fenderwells are losing the battle against rust. Even though I have 3/16" diamond plate on top the fenderwells (for the roll bar to bolt to) they are starting to pull away from the side of the tub. Also the back part of the floor is disappearing (near the tailgate).

Wheelinjp built the whole inside rear of his jeep using 1/8" plate. He made the fender wells wider (hot rodders call it tubbing the vehicle) and it came out looking pretty good.

I'm thinking of doing this with stainless sheeting (probably 1/16") and using supports under the main floor).

Anyone ever done this?
 

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I did it with a 1978 FJ. The tops of the fenderwells I ordered from Cool cruisers because of the curve and flange that would weld to the quarterpanels, but everything else I had cut from a metal wharehouse, bended it to my specs then I welded it up. I used 16 and 14 gauge mild steel. Just measure the lengths, widths of the existing metal before you cut and remove. The inside wheel wells I had a 90 degree bend in the top so I could weld thew top of wheel well to it. The bed I had a 90 degree bend upward on both sides so the inside (fabbed) wheel well woul lay inside the bed. Then I welded it up. The rear channel I bought from CCOT and welded it up to the bed, but I'm sure I could have used C channel steel. Good luck. <IMG SRC="smilies/trooper.gif" border="0">
 

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I don't have a rot problem, but i plan on modifying mine. I will cut the whole inner rear fender out, and make new ones that are further in and higher, to stop the sidewall of the tire rubbing the fender under flex and also to fit bigger tires. I don't know if that helps you much, it is just something related that i plan on doing.
 

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Fabricating wheel wells and other body parts is pretty easy (even the curved ones) . Stick with 16 gauge as it is easier to bend and work. Anything thicker is overkill.
 

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you think you got rust? mine not only lost the battle, it got kiked down and beat to hell with a huge bottle of whoop-ass-rust. check this out be4 i put a new tub on.
i was able to just rip this section off after taking the d-plate off. the rear bed area was constructed of 2x4's from the prv owner.

<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/rust reer lft.jpg">
 

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Originally posted by Bubs:
<STRONG>bad pic but


why not cut off the back and go flat bed? - looks bad ass

<IMG width=480 height=372 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/tuff_truck_6.jpg"></STRONG>
More pictures of that rig please!
 

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Dave I have a sawzall and we could do something like an fj45 cab and extend your wheelbase with a dana 70 and a 1/4 eliptic three link on King coilovers. Then we could just put a little flatbed on there and you would be able to clear 39.5 boggers like Sam has.I do know a guy who could help you with the replacement stuff. His name is Sean give him a call
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sooo....what are you doin at home during the day?

I'm thinking that a stainless steel bed area would be pretty nice. This project will probably have to wait until the house is done. I'm just trying to get some ideas.
Talk to you later.
 

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hey bubs here some photos of it now hydraulics on all 4 corners totally new truck now. he won the challange over the weekend at the tlcc land in Goulburn, as soon as i get all my pictures up they will be at my site. www.snakeracing.com.au


IMG width=100 height=75 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/ballsac1 copy.jpg">
 

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<IMG width=400 height=300 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/ballsac1s copy.jpg">


Rhino
 

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<IMG width=400 height=300 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/wcpatrol1.jpg">
 

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Originally posted by FAT 65L:
<STRONG><IMG width=400 height=300 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/ballsac1s copy.jpg">


Rhino</STRONG>
<IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0">

yuk - looks like shite now <IMG SRC="smilies/puke.gif" border="0">
 

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i agree, it looks like he's cut a sceptic tank in half and bolted it on .....
why?
<IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Ozfj40:
<STRONG>i agree, it looks like he's cut a sceptic tank in half and bolted it on .....
why?
<IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

i think that those pictures are old becouse it has the older rear suspension in it, and the rear tub is still in, now there is no backing behind the seats.

and i think that there were 2 very similar at one time.


NICK
 

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Sorry Nick but these are the truck NOW these photos were taken on the 15th & 16th of September 01 - at the TLCC challenge held weekend just gone the truck has been rebuilt on a 55 chassis - Hydrauiics on all 4 corners.

<IMG width=450 height=338 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/ballsac13.jpg">
 

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now I recognize the wheel wells they are rear fenders from a Kenworth or offroad dump truck right? Offroad meaning it hauls dirt instead of over the road. It looks pretty bad(thats not slang for good either)There must be some pretty tight laws on fenders in Aussie. Either that or mad max has a new rig!!Just kidding to each his own my jeep has flames so I cant bitch
 

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We do have tight laws, about everything, not just fenders.... but no way that thing is registered, so why bother. I know it has number plates on it, but c'mon those wheel arches <IMG SRC="smilies/puke.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/puke.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/puke.gif" border="0">
 
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