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i did a cv in the rear with 1310 joints and 6.5" slip. in the front i went with a 1310 on the pinion and a toy ujoint at the the tcase with 12" slip. if you can use the toy ujoints as they will operate up to like 41* and they are stronger than the spicer 1310. i went with tom woods but if i had it to do over again i'd go with jesse at high angle driveline. he knows his stuff and seemed to be able to think of more solutions for my particular problems.
 

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Originally posted by poppyseed:
<STRONG>if i had it to do over again i'd go with jesse at high angle driveline. he knows his stuff and seemed to be able to think of more solutions for my particular problems.</STRONG>
That's you, the big trouble maker. Almost as much as Fatkid. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I'm running the shafts from Arizona Driveline. The front has 1310's on both ends with about 12 inches of slip. The rear has a 1310 on one end and a CV on the other with about 6 inches of slip.

I'm running the CSC kit with YJ's and a spring over and have not had any problems with the driveline (other than needing to clearance the Petroworks skidplate a little bit).

[ 10-08-2001: Message edited by: M. Martian ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by poppyseed:
<STRONG>i did a cv in the rear with 1310 joints and 6.5" slip. in the front i went with a 1310 on the pinion and a toy ujoint at the the tcase with 12" slip. if you can use the toy ujoints as they will operate up to like 41* and they are stronger than the spicer 1310. i went with tom woods but if i had it to do over again i'd go with jesse at high angle driveline. he knows his stuff and seemed to be able to think of more solutions for my particular problems.</STRONG>
Well i called Jess, and he said that he may be able to use the Toy U joints front and rear... I can still turn my rear pinion up and down I havent welded it yet..

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One of the guys in our club just bought lines from Jess, He (or me for that matter) was not impressed. Used and dirty parts in a $300+ "new" driveline...WTF???? Don't believe me, ask Incontrol its his brother.

I've bought stuff from Woods and its always been very nice, and Tusker got one from AZ drivelines and it is also a nicely made BEEFY unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by scwafish:
<STRONG>One of the guys in our club just bought lines from Jess, He (or me for that matter) was not impressed. Used and dirty parts in a $300+ "new" driveline...WTF???? Don't believe me, ask Incontrol its his brother.

I've bought stuff from Woods and its always been very nice, and Tusker got one from AZ drivelines and it is also a nicely made BEEFY unit.</STRONG>
Well Ill call both of those guys tomorrow and see what they can do....One of the things i liked about Jess was that he made all the stuff bolt on, i dont have to worry about drilling any thing out!

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We keep the work in are own shop when we can, to me the front D-shaft isn't worth the money. But hey, I learned that from Tin Bender. And yes there is always square tube, I learned that from Desertoy. But where all just a bunch of web wheelers. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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If all your gonna do is crawl real slow I agree, but there are times when you need to be able to stand on it in 4X and then if it aint right it sucks. The front on my Scout used to vibrate over 5 mph and it was a real pain when you needed to stay in 4x but make decent time.
 

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Originally posted by RudeZuk:
<STRONG>
One of the things i liked about Jess was that he made all the stuff bolt on, i dont have to worry about drilling any thing out!</STRONG>
I wouldn't count on that either. We had to drill out to make it fit. <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">
 

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RudeZuk,
I've been running a birfeild front shaft for two years. Super smooth and I haven't broke it yet. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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So how'd ya do it fatkid? Quit braggin' and start talkin! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
 
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