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Discussion Starter #1
the working part of the bar, not the spline area.
looking to make my own and need a place to start. there's is to soft so i may step the O.D. up a little or may run shorter arms.
thanks for any info.
steelman
 

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Discussion Starter #2
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have you looked into some of the sprint-car
parts places yet? also some of the desert-
racing web sites.

Sherpa
 

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I don't know the exact diameter but I would guess 3/4", perhaps less. I assume the splined part is 1". The swaybar isn't very stiff at all, especially with the long arms they use.

CJ
 

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Looking into this too.

A club member yanked his, and I've been wanting to carbon copy it. <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

yooohoooo, Dippstick.....
 

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yep, i am wondering if a toyota torsion bar would work. only problem i have is that the two ends have different splines, so i need part of the A arm that fits one of these. still waiting on the OD of the curry one thogh. i think the toyota were around 20 mm(not sure.....anyone?!?)
 

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I have some sprint car torsion bars but they are hollow (like tubing). Not sure if they'd be beefy enough.
 

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Cool thanks for the link!! What would be a good bar to start with?? Anyone know how to calculate what rate would be needed?? Anyone know what the Anti-Rock kit costs??
 

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Originally posted by CJ Lagos:
<STRONG>When I built the rear swaybar for my jeep i used Stock Car Products: www.stockcarproducts.com

They offer them in 3/4" to 1-1/8" and in custom lengths, 37.5" is stocked. The stiffness of a swaybar is the diameter to the fourth.


CJ</STRONG>

I remember seeing pics of your TJ here a while ago that showed the bar you made. What Diameter and Length did you use and what length arm (center to center distance). How much movement do you get out of the bar?? How much movement do get out of the suspension with and without the bar?? Thanks..

Ant
 

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Hey Ant,

I think my bar is around 39" long or so, I forget the exact measurment. The arms are 13.5" long...I'd prefer longer but they work fine, i thought about getting some custom made.

My first bar was 1-1/16", which is very stiff. My reasoning was that I'd see how that bar worked and since it was stiff, it'd be good for driving around on the street. Then I'd get the smaller diameter bar for the trails. In reality, I could have gotten a softer bar and drilled a new set of holes on the arms but I had to start somewhere.

The 1-1/16" bar gave me 8" of articulation...so I got a 7/8" bar to put in which will give me 16-20". It really depends on where your links attach to the housing too...

Hope that helps, feel free to email me.

CJ
 

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Great, thanks for all the info. It gives me a good starting point. I think I'm gonna start with a 42" long bar 1" diameter. Right now my rig sways a bit to much for the trail and is totally un-streetable.
 

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Ant,

Good deal. They sell tubing that their bushings fit into that the bar slides through. I just made my bar about 2" longer than the width of my frame in the back.

I think you'll really like the swaybar.

I'm building a new frame for my Jeep this winter and I'm gonna put swaybars front and rear...I think I'm going to use a 3/4" up front and in the back use a diameter bar that balances the front and rear suspension.

CJ
 

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Just did some calculations here with a fellow engineer and we came up with a 40" by 3/4" bar yielding around 50 inch pounds of spring with a 12" lever arm. A 3/4" will withstand more than 5,000 lbs of force before breaking with a 12" arm. So now I'm leaning towards a 3/4" bar... can always shorten the lever arm to increase the spring rate. CJ Lagos, can you repost those pics of your rig that show the sway bar set-up?? Tell me more about the sleeve, I know the 3/4" bar uses 1" splined arms and pillow blocks, is the sleeve split down the middle??
 

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Ok, can you tell me what coil spring rates you are running on your coil-overs?? The swaybar set up this way was too stiff??
 

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Hey Ant,

Well, it has to do with roll resistance. My swaybar mounts to the axle pretty far out on the tubes. So, the swaybar has to move much more than if it the links were mounted closer to centerline.

The 1-1/16" bar simply would only move enough for 8-10" of articulation, it was too stiff. That was the max movement it saw, it would lift the drooping tire before allowing any more articulation. By reducing to a 7/8" bar, it will move enough to give me around 16-18" of articulation. Since your running a bar about the same length as me, they are decent figures to go by.

All their swaybars use a 1", 48" spline on the ends, that way they have universal arms. They use 1.75" OD tubing, but I forget the wall thickness. You slide the bushings in the end of the tubes, then slide the swaybar through the bushings and attach thte arms.

CJ
 

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Discussion Starter #20
after thinking about it i think i will be going with a 37 inch long, 7/8's dia bar with longest arms i can find. 15 inch. i would rather it be to soft than too stiff. i can work with it being to soft. just move the arms back or add another smaller bar in the front.
there are some shops sending some info to me that i will post when i get it. there are some really trick looking Alum. arms that have a steel insert for the spline area that i'm thinking about getting.

so far it looks like i'll have about $250 bucks in it when done.
steelman
 
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