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I have got a Detroit true trac in my toyota rear and ive noticed it doesnt quiet get the job done as far as when one tire is off the ground. :shaking: I still get that one tire spinning motion. I am going to put it in my front axle when i swap it. Ill put a detroit locker in the rear. Anyone got a true trac up front and like it? i run 4.88's in a V6 if that make a difference. thanks. -big rig wrecker
 

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I run one 5.29's and 35" tires.. Works good.. I broke one birf.. My buddy runs one never broke a birf... better than open but not locked.
 

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I had one in my old rig. only worked about half the time.
 

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I ran one for 3 or 4 years and ran some good trails. It worked pretty good with a little stab of the brake, but it aint as good as a locker. Run it till your ready for a locker up front.
 

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I ran one in the front with a Detroit in the rear and was very unhappy with the performance... it did well in mixed terrain, but when I needed it most, it let me down... I tried the brake thing, it would work sometimes.

I have had a Detroit front and rear for several years now and it is great for me. If I ever break the Detroit I think I will try an ARB in front. A full locker in the front can make steering a chore over 10 mph, but if I am going that fast I am usually have the Marlin Crawler in 2wd low range, so steering is great!

If you are just going to swap the 3rd member from the rear to the front, try it, you might like it. However; if it is performance you are looking for on difficult trails, go full locker.
 

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I run an ARB in the back and a Trutrac up front, 5.29s and 35s. Works fine, hasn't let me down yet. You do need to touch the brake when 1 wheel comes off the ground while starting from a stop. For the wheeling I do up here it's does the job, maybe not the rockcrawler's choice though. Makes for easy steering.
Everyone will tell you to put a locker up front, and it's true, you want real traction you need a locker. The trutrac, however, is far better than a conventional LSD and miles better than nothing. A while back when I had the trutrac up front and the ARB in the back, but with no air compressor to run it, I went out with a group of trucks who all had open diffs, with the trutrac kicked everyones ass. Open diffs suck and it wasn't much of a trail, so maybe it's not the best comparison, but hey, you get the picture.
 

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I have a tru-trac up front and am farily happy with it. I have run the Con and Fordyce with it - no problems. A locker would be better, but my birfields are much happier without one.
 

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I installed a tru-trac, went one run, pulled it out, bought a soft locker it works great

the tru-trac IMO is a peice of shit
 

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CINCH said:
I installed a tru-trac, went one run, pulled it out, bought a soft locker it works great

the tru-trac IMO is a peice of shit

The Tru-Trac is the best LSD out there! Its gear drivin, no clutches to wear out or special additives. You dont need to rebuild it after a few years. But it is what it is.............an LSD! Its not a Locker.
 

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Before you put it up front, check the application. I am pretty sure that the tru-tracs are specific to location, front or back. If it is from a rear application, it may not work in the front. Just check before you go and break something.
As for experience, I ran a tru-trac in the front of my truck when it was IFS and loved it. Never had a problem with it and never broke a cv joint. I would highly recommend it to anyome the needs more than an open diff and doesnt want the difficulties of the locker. It is also great for those that drive on the streets in the winter in 4wd, it doesn't make the front end plow like a locker would in the snow.
 

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I ran one up front for quite a few years, wrote up my experiences on my web page:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml

Brake biasing does indeed work, to a limit. I found that with stock gearing it was very hard to do, since you needed more braking force than the engine could overcome. With dual cases, I found that at or below 70:1 gearing, it worked quite well. You could apply as much brakes as you wanted and have the engine still able to overcome the brakes and keep you going up the obstacle. One limit on brake biasing is the birfs, I broke both of my original Marfields getting up a dry waterfall in Panamint Valley. Did make it up and finished the trail under my own power, but both birf. housings were cracked.
 

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B4Wheeler said:
Before you put it up front, check the application. I am pretty sure that the tru-tracs are specific to location, front or back. If it is from a rear application, it may not work in the front. Just check before you go and break something.
As for experience, I ran a tru-trac in the front of my truck when it was IFS and loved it. Never had a problem with it and never broke a cv joint. I would highly recommend it to anyome the needs more than an open diff and doesnt want the difficulties of the locker. It is also great for those that drive on the streets in the winter in 4wd, it doesn't make the front end plow like a locker would in the snow.
The rear application is what I used up front, never had any issues.
 

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I had a Tru-Trac in my previous vehicle in the rear. It COMPLETELY SUCKED for me. Sure it was better than an open Diff and worked OK when the tires had traction and where on the ground. But the second I one got airborn; It was all over! So in my opinoin the cost of a LSD is not worth it. I would rather have a lunch box or Lincoln locker than a LSD. I tried modulating the brakes and the ebrake but all it did was make lots of noise and provided no additional traction to the tire that needed it. So from my experiences, a Detroit Tru-Trac is for Mall-Rated vehicles only..... and there no point in using a LSD on any vehicle that you might lift a tire on. Just Go full locker.

But to answer your question, buy a full locker for the rear and swap it up front because its better then nothing. But I would start looking around for someone to buy it for their Mall Rated Rig so you can get something better....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeah i will put the rear in the front for now then someday go arb. but im on a workin mans budget. So i will have to get there in time. Thanks for the info guys. :D
 

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B4Wheeler said:
Before you put it up front, check the application. I am pretty sure that the tru-tracs are specific to location, front or back. If it is from a rear application, it may not work in the front. Just check before you go and break something.
As for experience, I ran a tru-trac in the front of my truck when it was IFS and loved it. Never had a problem with it and never broke a cv joint. I would highly recommend it to anyome the needs more than an open diff and doesnt want the difficulties of the locker. It is also great for those that drive on the streets in the winter in 4wd, it doesn't make the front end plow like a locker would in the snow.
That is a very good point, and reminds me of one more bit of info I forgot...

The TruTrac I had up front was a rear TruTrac (based upon the part number). I called TracTech and they told me that there is a different unit for front and rear... using a rear unit in the front would give less performance than a front unit up front (since it is designed to turn in a certain direction). They couldn't tell me how much performance was lost though...

Perhaps those of us that are MOST unhappy with a TruTrac had a rear unit in a front application??? That having been said, a locker is still going to be better for maximum performance on difficult trails...

The snow issue is very important also... full lockers in the front (or even rear) are no fun at speed on snow and ice (like a hog on ice).
 

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I run one in the front (rear e-locker) and love it, but I am running rear springs in front with lots o' travel so the front tires have contact with the ground (most of the time :D ). I love it in the snow, and even on smooth granite it will let you steer. It is much better than open. No, it ain't no locker, but it keeps my birfs happy. And as far as a working man's budget is concerned, I bought it used off of this board for $150 :cool2: .
 

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LouBell said:
I run one in the front and love it, I bought it used off of this board :cool2: .
Good to hear that it's still working well and glad you like it! :)
 

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I have a TT up front, 4.88s and 35s. You just have to learn the brake tap thing when one wheel comes up, but not always needed depending on what you are going over. I have been on the Rubicon and Fordyce as well as many many local trails and am happy with it. I did bust the DS birf last year though coming out of the Con in the trap 200' from the exit, didnt hurt or damage the TT at all........ :( :laughing:
 

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I found the keys to the brake biasing are #1 to get on the brakes before you need to so you don't lose momentum, #2 be in a low enough gear to let #1 work and #3 ride the brakes and gas with about equal force depending on how hard an obstacle you are trying to climb. I found it took *way* more braking force than I first thought it would (its not a light tap on the brake pedal for sure). Basically, you need to be as hard on the brakes as you would need to to hold you in place on the climb, then be twice as hard on the gas as you would have needed, since you need to both overcome the brakes and have enough power left to get up and over the spot. It does take some practice to get the hang of it. In the rear end, you could get more effective biasing with the e-brakes, since you are only braking 2 wheels instead of 4.
 
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