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Why would you not want to use U-bolts? They work goo for everybody else.

So your saying you wanna make 2 plates, one for on top of the spring, and one for under the axle tube. The bolt them together to sandwhich the spring?

Why would this be a good thing? Sounds way more complicated, more stuff to break, and more to drag on rocks.

But whatever floats your boat. Am i missing something?
 

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i know of a couple of trucks here that have had it done, we also have the issue of steering, but i have never seen or heard of any breaking or any other problems for that matter.


NICK
 

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thats what i thought he was talking about, with the stock toy steering the drag link or S link comes real close to the spring pack when you turn.


NICK
 

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okay, it's on a Ford axle, under a Jeep, but all the same principles should still apply. Credit goes to Matt, I think he goes by WanderingWillys on this board.

finished product:






 

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"I think there is less to drag on the rocks"

Also less to hold the f**ckin axle on! More work and less secure, especially on a thin stamped yota axle housing. My u-bolts were cheap, quick and sleazy!
 

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Ok so whats wrong with a $50 Ubolt flip?
 

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CHEVY 2s and Novas of the 60s had a setup like that, I launched in a street race one night and the perched kindly removed itself from the axle tube (I thought the 400+ hp had FINALLY blown the 10 bolt) I ruined 1 Mickey Thompson ET street tire and had to get it towed to my storage shed. Go with U-bolts, its just a better idea.
 

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Brandon- read your Ubolt flip tech art- but it isn't very specific as to which rides to get the 5$ Ubolts from. I have the front out and doing a rebuild- the pass side is presenting problems. Any specific vehicle info to get the Ubolts from for both sides of the front axles would be appreciated. new to toy axles..
 

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I have the AP kit that came with my rear springs for the same price as a U-bolt flip kit and it works fine. I would much rather run this set-up than shims and some U-bolts that don't fit right. There's nothing to come loose and you can set the perches exactly where you want them. They also give you a larger perch surface for the spring to mount on and you get less axlewrap.
 

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BrettM said:
okay, it's on a Ford axle, under a Jeep, but all the same principles should still apply. Credit goes to Matt, I think he goes by WanderingWillys on this board.

IMO, that is not a very good design. I would have used bigger plate and tubing and gone straight through them, like i did. Seems like those little sections of tube dont have much weld on em and could be prone to breaking.
 

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TTURokToy said:


IMO, that is not a very good design. I would have used bigger plate and tubing and gone straight through them, like i did. Seems like those little sections of tube dont have much weld on em and could be prone to breaking.
Reading your tag line I would think you of all people would know that how much weld you see doesn't matter,
IT'S THE PENETRATION :flipoff2:


sorry I just couldn't resist;)
 

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TTURokToy said:


IMO, that is not a very good design. I would have used bigger plate and tubing and gone straight through them, like i did. Seems like those little sections of tube dont have much weld on em and could be prone to breaking.
You may be right, but I can vouch that he beats the piss out of his Jeep with 38s (i think, may be 37s) and has never had a problem with them. He usually breaks his wishbone upper on his 3 link front:eek:
 

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I buddy up here(crawincruiser) sort of runs that on the front of his cruiser.the reason being that he put a wider fj60 axle in a fj40 and he refuses to outboard his springs.the 3rd member is in the way of where the u-bolt would go so he is using this method.I my opinon it looks like shit and I tell him to change it like every day but is has not given him a problem withen a years worth of abuse;)
 
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