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Looking at upgrading the entire steering system with rusty's Over the Knuckle system.. for 490 bucks...

Anyone have input?

87 XJ nearly 7 inches of lift...
 

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you can build a custom top of the knuckle setup on a d30 for much less than $490. $130+/- for links, the cost of 3/4 ton TRE's and a reamer $60 and you're all set.
 

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xj4rocks said:
you can build a custom top of the knuckle setup on a d30 for much less than $490. $130+/- for links, the cost of 3/4 ton TRE's and a reamer $60 and you're all set.
I second that one. I just built an OTK setup identical to xj4rocks's and I'm into it for less than $300 and it's MUCH better than Rusty's kit. I don't mean to knock Rusty's stuff but I saw that kit the other day and it uses dinky TRE's. I guess they are identical in size to stock, no real upgrade other than improved angles.
 

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Thanks you guy's just saved me some money. I was about to order the Rusty's kit for the wife's XJ... When in doubt just get off your ass and make it yourself, and that's exactly what I'm going to do!!!
 

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hey bob/wes, i was looking for the post on NAXJA about all the OTK stuff you guys were talking a while back and its not there, do you have any measurements or info on the swap? a friend of mine is interested in it, and id like to keep it in word just as a refrence.

Hunter
 

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Andy (crash or Afecko) had a good listing of all the chevy TREs and the bungs and stuff on Naxja, of course the archives are pretty nonexistant but its worth a look. Personally I think I am going to go waggy steering, its beefy stuff and goes over the knuckle also. A reamer is needed but I did a price check at kragen its $228 for everything, including the adjusting sleeve with a lifetime warranty. It seems the chevy one ton stuff ended up costing close to $200 as well.
 

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I have the writeup on the swap all but finished and then got sidetracked on other stuff. I'll work on it and post it here.

As far as rod ends etc

ES 2234R

ES 2233L

ES 2027L

ES 2026R

I don't have the lengths handy here at work. I got them from Shaker http://www.shakerbuilt.com/ if you tell him you want links like mine he'll have the measurements for an XJ D30



all the pics no text http://xj4rocks.dyndns.org/xj4rocks/tech/steering/

Bob
 

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bob
what size reamer is used for the chevy tie rods?
also do you have any issue with the drag link mounted to the front of the tie rod and it wanting to twist or rotate the tie rod before it turns the wheels?

thanks
nathan
 

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this has all been gone over in previous posts here on pirate....so try a search for more, but here's the short answers to the questions.

- reamer is 1-1/2" per ft. Goodson

- the tracbar I was using in the Pic was the JKS (for an XJ) tracbar which puts the mounting point slightly lower than stock. Now i'm using a JKS bar for a WJ that puts that even slightly lower down.

- The links are close enough to parallel that i don't think you'd have too much problem with bumpsteer etc, i have never experienced it.

- the steering does twist a little bit but because the draglink is pushing on the tierod at a flatter angle it is reduced and it doesn't really effect the turning or cause a dead spot.

1TONTJ - what size tube do you use for your links? and are you tapping an weld in insert or the tube? Just curious.
 

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xj4rocks said:
wes: how do you like the steering setup?
I'm very happy with it so far. I had trouble clearing my wheels with 4.5" BS but after some clearancing with a grinder it's all good. I haven't raised the trackbar yet, I just used a YJ pitman arm the the angles came out perfect. It drives great and I haven't noticed any "dead spot" in the steering that people say they experience with the draglink mounted in front of the tierod.
 

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xj4rocks said:
1TONTJ - what size tube do you use for your links? and are you tapping an weld in insert or the tube? Just curious.
I recomend 1.5"x3/8" wall 1026 DOM for the tie-rod and 1.25"x5/16" wall for the drag link set up like that.
It is proffesionally machined - no welded ends.

I can also build you anythign custom, just send me the size and I can have it ready in as quick as same day shipping if neccesary.

Send me a PM with what you want, and I will give you a great price.

Phil
 

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xjpart2 said:
hey bob/wes, i was looking for the post on NAXJA about all the OTK stuff you guys were talking a while back and its not there, do you have any measurements or info on the swap? a friend of mine is interested in it, and id like to keep it in word just as a refrence.

Hunter
I think Bob covered this answer pretty well. The only things you have to be aware of is that you have to cut off the steering stabilizer mount and sway bar mounting tabs. You also have to grind the coil buckets down until they are flush with the coils to get complete lock to lock steering. I can't remember the measurements either but Bob is right, you can just contact Tim Fryer at Shakerbuilt and he has the measurements.
 

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1TONTJ said:


I recomend 1.5"x3/8" wall 1026 DOM for the tie-rod and 1.25"x5/16" wall for the drag link set up like that.
It is proffesionally machined - no welded ends.

I can also build you anythign custom, just send me the size and I can have it ready in as quick as same day shipping if neccesary.

Send me a PM with what you want, and I will give you a great price.

Phil
That would definitely be a stout setup but I don't know if you could get lock to lock steering back with a 1.5" tie rod. I was barely able to get it back with 1.25" DOM.
 

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I built my steering for $150 with heims. Remember you have to relocate the pass side sway bar link and the axle mount of the trackbar when you go over the knuckle. I highly recommend putting a bend in the the draglink at the pitman arm so that the TR or heim is parallel to the ground when the vehical is on flat ground. Otherwise you max out the TR or heim when you droop the pass side.

SeanP
 
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