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Discussion Starter #1
I use my truck a few times a year to tow, the old 5.4 was giving up the ghost so I sent it down the road. Found a good deal on a 2002 f250 with a 7.3 and 158k original miles.

What things should I look for specifically?

Thanks in advance
 

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"Original miles"
As opposed to what? Unorginal miles?

Bring it to a shop and have them plug it in and check hpop #s and cylinder contributions.

Or biy it at the good deal price and run it.

I picked up a 97 F350 with 58,000 miles for $2800.

Needed some maintenance like all the fluids and filters, belt, starter, brakes and tires on the steer axle, etc. Also ended up needing an injector.
 

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Oil pans like to rust out. Glow plugs and harness, injector harness. But if it runs good, Send it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

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Big one is codes. Most tuners in my experience will prevent the CEL from coming on even if there are conditions causing codes. On my 04 (different engine, I know, same applies), this bit me on the test drive, and I even brought a scanner with me.

Bring a scanner, scan it, and write down all the codes, pending or not, that it has. With permission, clear the codes, then take it for a decent test drive, as long as is reasonable, then scan for any codes again. Anything that comes up as pending is possibly a real code that's not being shown because of the tune. That's doubly true if the pending code was there before you cleared them.

Not to mention, make sure that the truck is dead cold when you go to start it up the first time when you see it. Tell the seller to make sure it's cold before you get there. Hard cold starts, meaning HPO leaks and malfunctioning glow plugs, can be hidden during a hot start condition.
 

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As mentioned valve cover harness, Injectors and glow plugs need replacement but not a hard job. They can be hard on batteries if left in the cold sitting I keep mine on a tender and indoors it doesn't get driven much anymore. I put in the larger GP relay that seemed to help out a little its lasted longer than the napa or other replacemnet ones.

I'm in the rust belt so I"d look at the cab cornors and rockers on the under side and also the bed cross members. I also had to replace the frame rail rear brake line got real crusty near the fuel tank. Also added a coolant filter I was on my third water pump at about 150k. I've had mine since 2004 not going into everything I've done to it they are older trucks so its going to need some work run it and replace shit as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone. truck turned out to be a huge piece of poop. Completely misrepresented by the seller. A 30 second walk around told me what I needed to know. ran rough, puking oil everywhere, tons of blow by. Just a real piece of garbage. Thanks everyone for your time though.
 

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Rust. I had one that had the disease bad. Bed mounts rusted and a body mount, among other things.

Sounds like you avoided a huge headache.
 

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I got my kid one a few years ago, engine wise, it was great... the thing that truck needed was pretty much the front end replaced...so, about 2500 in parts...

they are heavy beasts, so assume you may have some work to do on the front end.
 

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I got my kid one a few years ago, engine wise, it was great... the thing that truck needed was pretty much the front end replaced...so, about 2500 in parts...

they are heavy beasts, so assume you may have some work to do on the front end.
$2500? Did you call diamond and have an axle built?
 

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$2500? Did you call diamond and have an axle built?
hubs, actuators rotors, all the upper and lower stuff, shocks, etc etc... it added up. I bought OEM or a little better on a few things... I replaced two leather seats (the covers and cushion) it added up.... and tires.
 
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