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Discussion Starter #1
i first installed this into a YJ and ran it just a few times.
the comp would not cycle like it had a leak or anything but when it a real bind like pointing up and nasty rocks the front locker would cause the comp to cycle. on flat ground or anything it held the air. i thought maybe a bind in the air line.

so now i pulled the locker and install it into my XJ. this time i made sure it had plenty of line and there is no way it's pulling on the diff when the axle is dropped out.

i got the same problem. when the jeep is up and twisted at to hell the comp starts to cycle. the locker still works but i'm leaking air somewhere.


what in the locker would fail under heavy stress? and cause an air leak?


after searching google
http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=&q=arb+leak&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=

i'm wishing i went with the ox lockers at this point. seems like air leaks are all to common on them.
 

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Dana 30's have an incredible amount of flex in them, through the housing, carrier, everywere. The carrier is separateing and flexing.

Put a truss across the bottom from Inner c, to inner c.
 

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here is one that i did for a friend that loves to bend housings. No problems yet.

Its about half done in the pictures. Additional inner c gussets, and Upper control arm mount reinforcements were done as well.
 

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preload

i have a bunch of correspondence with ARB USA regarding this exact issue. what ARB told me is that the pinion can push on the ring gear enough to deflect the housing and cause the o-rings to move off the case, and leak, the fix for me was adding a LOT more preload into the housing, equal amounts on each side as to not affect your gear pattern. I ended up using another .010 to .020 MORE than i thought was proper (before talking to ARB anyway), this involved using a case spreader to be achieved properly, and i still had to hammer the shims in. I was told that you essentially can't preload a D30 too much. hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so would trussing fix this as well or is the problem in the housing?
surprised i haven't heard of this before.



i have a bunch of correspondence with ARB USA regarding this exact issue. what ARB told me is that the pinion can push on the ring gear enough to deflect the housing and cause the o-rings to move off the case, and leak, the fix for me was adding a LOT more preload into the housing, equal amounts on each side as to not affect your gear pattern. I ended up using another .010 to .020 MORE than i thought was proper (before talking to ARB anyway), this involved using a case spreader to be achieved properly, and i still had to hammer the shims in. I was told that you essentially can't preload a D30 too much. hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #8
looks like a good job trussing but putting the truss under the axle looks like you would kill your clearance. it's one thing to get a pumpkin threw a mess but doing that lowers your usable ground clearance but several inches.

prob doing something like that but do it on top. it would be worth it to redo all the links and mounts rather then give up so much room.




here is one that i did for a friend that loves to bend housings. No problems yet.

Its about half done in the pictures. Additional inner c gussets, and Upper control arm mount reinforcements were done as well.
 

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so would trussing fix this as well or is the problem in the housing?
surprised i haven't heard of this before.
my problem was in the housing, preload shims made the problem go away, it was only leaking when the drivetrain was loaded up, like you said, flat ground it would hold, once i got twisted up, it would leak like a bastard and not lock up. it would only NOT work when I needed it most :shaking:
was in the same boat as you doubting ARB, after e-mailing back and forth, and finding out the problem just through a couple e-mails, it locks up first time, every time, and i absolutely LOVE it now. according to ARB, a truss will always help, the 30 is flexy, but i haven't needed one yet (only on 31's, going to 33's max on this truck)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i talked with the guy who installed it and he said it had tons of preload and didn't think it would be possible to stuff anymore in.
prob why mine still works but only leaks off some.

like you it only fails when you really need it.
i would think the truss would help, one time this weekend i had one tire in the air and the other front was the only thing dragging me up and it didn't leak. only on a hill with lots of rocks that would have bent my axle did the locker leak off.

so now it comes down to shim VS truss to solve the ARB leak problem.

my problem was in the housing, preload shims made the problem go away, it was only leaking when the drivetrain was loaded up, like you said, flat ground it would hold, once i got twisted up, it would leak like a bastard and not lock up. it would only NOT work when I needed it most :shaking:
was in the same boat as you doubting ARB, after e-mailing back and forth, and finding out the problem just through a couple e-mails, it locks up first time, every time, and i absolutely LOVE it now. according to ARB, a truss will always help, the 30 is flexy, but i haven't needed one yet (only on 31's, going to 33's max on this truck)
 

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You could allways truss the top...


But i dont know much about arb's. so ill let the pros talk :D I just know about floppy dana 30 housings.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i emailed ARB and to ask them about them, since i dropped 1800 for two of them and pump i thought they could answer me.

guess not. no answer from ARB. looks to me that the arb is likely to fail in the dana30 without major mods or shimming the dog shit out of it. i wish they were just honest about that before selling them.
 

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i emailed ARB and to ask them about them, since i dropped 1800 for two of them and pump i thought they could answer me.

guess not. no answer from ARB. looks to me that the arb is likely to fail in the dana30 without major mods or shimming the dog shit out of it. i wish they were just honest about that before selling them.
So the locker never unlocked or failed on you.. It's just the compressor kicking on? Honest about what? The weakness of a Dana 30? That's common knowledge. I don't think you should jump to any conclusions about not getting email correspondence. Call them.. I beat the dog out of my old 2 piece rd30(IIRC) on 35's for ten plus years. When servicing the front I noticed all the case bolts had come out. Amazingly it still worked with only the preload holding it.. Had I taken care of my front diff over time I'm sure I'd still have it.. I sent it back for a rebuild only to find it needed a new case. I had been on the phone with them for over a year back and fourth on what to do.. After not finding any rubi 44's for a good price I joined Pirate and got sucked into Tons. I called another 8 months later and they gave me a deal on my RD36 Dana 60 unit and made me a life long customer.. My rear TJ ARB 44 sold for top dollar. I was always under the impression that the compressor cycleing was just it keeping a certin psi in the small tank..I wonder if the case flex was what made my compressor kick on occasionally..? Who cares? My front air locker always stayed locked and never let me down..
 

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i emailed ARB and to ask them about them, since i dropped 1800 for two of them and pump i thought they could answer me.

guess not. no answer from ARB. looks to me that the arb is likely to fail in the dana30 without major mods or shimming the dog shit out of it. i wish they were just honest about that before selling them.
try [email protected] he is the guy that helped me out time after time. also, i forgot to mention that they even did this after i told them this was a used unit not originally purchased by me. or just call them up, I've had parts sales guys answer tech questions, and forward me to engineers to have them answer questions too.
 
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