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Discussion Starter #1
I was out playing around on the single hill at a buddy's shop this afternoon, and my ARB's stopped working...I am running the ARB compressor. The lights come on behind the switch, but nothing else...the compressor WAS working, but then it stopped...and I got nothing. Any ideas???
 

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Do you have the wiring diagram that came with the compressor?
If not there is a large red wire that goes to the battery, and it should have a fuse in it. THere is also a relay that controls the voltage to the compressor. BTW if it is wired with the ARB stuff the switchs have their own voltage so they should light regardless of whats going on elsewhere.
Butch
 

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no air....no lock...is the power to your compressor fused?
 

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Depending on how old it could be the overtemp...mine went and I removed it per ARB instructions. Try the tech line they can help if all the simple stuff fails, if the compressor was running alot check for leaks as the arb's won't handle greater the 10% duty cycle very well....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok...the fuse is replaced. Still nothing...guess it's time to call ARB. As far as how it's hooked up...I don't have the wiring diagram...I caught a GREAT (sarcasm) deal at 4WP a few years ago, where they would do free install on anything you purchased. So I bought 2 ARBs and a compressor. BTW this was 4WP in Dallas...took them 6 weeks to install, and they did a crappy job. I am still working on fixing it. The wired the compressor power to my fuse box...bare wires stuffed behind the fuses...I am just now getting around to fixing it. Any tips??:mad: :rolleyes:
 

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You need to find someone with the wiring diagram for the ARB's bitch at 4wpw and make them get you one, you will have to have it to trouble shoot it unless you are an electrical guru which is obvious you aren't,:flipoff2:
You can temp check the compressor by unplugging the 2 wire connector on the compressor and hooking them straight to the battery.
Something you should have gotten back after the install from them is the goffy little tool to remove the bolt in the rear ARB, if you don't have this you are fawked if you need to remove an axle.
Butch
 

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John,

Simple solution... I'll trade you 2 welded 3rd members for your 2 ARB 3rds :flipoff2:

If you are able to drive it you can bring it by and I'll take a look at it. I'll be wrenching all weekend trying to get my soa done my the end of the month.

-me.
 

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fj40john said:
I was out playing around on the single hill at a buddy's shop this afternoon, and my ARB's stopped working...I am running the ARB compressor. The lights come on behind the switch, but nothing else...the compressor WAS working, but then it stopped...and I got nothing. Any ideas???
Wow! That is a huge surprise :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Re: Re: ARBs not working

wngrog said:


Wow! That is a huge surprise :rolleyes:
I assume that you are referring to the ARB compressor being a POS??


Found my info that came with them...wiring diagram and all. Can't seem to find...nor do I remember getting...the tool that was mentioned. Guess it's time to call ARB.
 

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check your wiring

ARBs are an AWESOME locker, awesome strong diff centre part,

the electrical and switching components is what lets them down, but i like mine too much.

Try all fuses/relays

also try and have a look at your pressure release switch in the tank, it may have corrosion causing it not to work, causing it to run too hot and blow the fuse :confused:
 

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fj40john,

Be sure to post the fix if you find out what the problem is. I have the same problem right now :)mad:) cept' I don't have the wiring diagram and it hasn't gotten warm enough out for me to go out and tinker around too much.



Thanks,

:beer:
 

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Time to break out the DVM and measure some voltages at
the rear of the switches. Mine weren't used for a while
and I had to do some wiggling of the wires at the
back of the switches. Contact probably oxidized.
The compressor kicked on, one time, but since the switch(es)
wouldn't enable the solenoids, it wouldn't release air,
hence it wouldn't come back on a second time, as its
tank had a 'full' charge.
Anyway, most likely a less than stellar quality of copper.
In the 'normal' ARB form, I believe the rear won't power
on until the front switch is enabled, or visa versa, but its a start.
I think I have the wiring diagram in the garage.
 

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Roids, you damn Aussies are brainwashed about ARB's. In my view, which has never counted for much and never will, they're overpriced crap with lousy tech and customer support. :flipoff2:

Sorry mate, that's the way I see it.:flipoff2: :D
 

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I hate to disagree with someone that "don't play well with others" But if the install is done correctly and time is taken to protect the lines, they are fairly trouble free, although I prefer a Detroit in the rear.......sure is nice for steering and easy on the BF's to only use it when you need it up front.
Butch
 

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I see ARB's as a necessary evil, they definitely seem to be more trouble-prone than other lockers, although most people seem to agree that most problems stem from poor installation. For example, my rear ARB has a blown o-ring, and I absolutely believe that installation had a lot to do with it.

That said, for a daily-driving sprung-over 60 that my wife also happens to drive ocasionally, I wouldn't have it any other way, especially not after the couple of ice storms we had here in Austin this winter...
 

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I love my ARB's and I have never had any problems with em:flipoff2: They have been in the Cruiser since 97. And the 2 I had in my Jeep before were trouble free. I would never go back to any other type of locker:D
 

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