Pirate 4x4 banner

Attaching a lean-to to my shop

154524 Views 61 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  ghostwriter6699
Existing 30x40 post-frame shop with metal siding... What would be the proper method to attach a lean-to off of the back 30ft wall? I can think of several ways to do it, but just not sure what the "right" way would be.
21 - 40 of 62 Posts
what slope did you end up with? I think I could have got away with less on mine but better safe than sorry. What will the roofing be attached to (size wood for rafters). How much snow do you get there?
Slope - Whatever it ends up with :p
Rafters - 2x6
Snow - very little, very rarely.
A lot depends on what type of roofing you will be using, how big it will be, and whether you plan on using OSB and tar paper under the tin. I just finished with two pole barns, a 24x48' and a 24x36', and I am adding 8' extensions to the rear of each. Both are sloped around 1.5-2' from front to rear, but I can't remember the exact amount.

I've started on the 8' extension to the 24x36', and I'll have to post a few pics. I didn't go the full 36' width, and ended up adding 8x24' to the rear. I used 2x4s on 16" centers as my rafters, using three 4x4 posts to hold up the addition. I won't be using OSB & tar paper under the tin, have simply run 1x4" furring strips every couple feet to screw the tin to. The roofing I am using is 29ga 5v tin, and the roof will be plenty strong.

I'll post some pics as soon as I can, as it will show you what I am doing much better than me trying to describe it.
My plan was to just use the 1x3 or 1x4 furring strips across the 2x6 joists and skin on top of that.

BTW, posts are 14' from the building, so I should end up with approx. 15x30 worth of covered area to part stuff under.
You could use some ridge cap and turn it upside down and screw it to the wall at the top of the lean to. This will seal the carport roof to the building.

Or if you have a sheet metal brake take a wall panel and cut you some 24 inch tall horizontal panels and break it at 12 inches to your angle of the carport roof angle. Then screw that to the existing wall matching the panel ridges. A little silicon at the top seam and you're set!

Your roof panels will go under the new cut and bent wall sections.

Does that make sense? Just think of it as ridge cap upside down. You can match your wall color and make it look almost seamless!
5
Here are a few pics:







Since I'm only running 8' with no OSB, I can easily get away with three posts and 2x4's as my rafters. I think you have the right idea running 2x6's for your rafters, especially going 15' out. If it were me, I'd probably use 3x 4x6 posts with 2x8's spanning as the facial board. I'd also run a 2x2 on the inside to "set" the 2x6 rafters on, but its not absolutely necessary.
See less See more
That's pretty much my plan - thanks!

As you can see in the pic - I have the 4 4x4 posts in place and the concrete is set now (poured Saturday morning).

This evening I had to deal with another issue - running a drainage pipe under the lean-to so I can fill with dirt and then bring some gravel in. Pipe is in, and mostly covered, now I need to work on the dirt a bit back there.
3
lol... So whie I am at work, my dad seems to be intent on spear-heading this project, whether I agree or not :laughing:

So we came up with a game plan, and this is what we settled on for attaching it to the building. Each 10' 2x6 is getting four 1/2" bolts (plus a few screws here are there) to marry it to the one in the inside of the building. I also plan to add some metal corner brackets to make sure the 2x6 on the inside doesn't pull away from the 4x6 posts in there.

Attachments

See less See more
How do you plan to flash that so it doesn't leak?
How do you plan to flash that so it doesn't leak?
This ^^^

Even if you don't care about if water runs down between the two you'll still need to do something so it doesn't rot out those 2x6s.

I'd have probably cut the metal along where the lean to roof is starting then tucked flashing back up underneath and finished the rough edge off with some J-channel.

Actually coming off that end of the building it wouldn't have cost but a few hundred dollars more to just continue the trusses out, then down the road you could turn it into another bay easily.
Why do I here banjos? Take the siding off and do it the correct way. You will regret that for years to come.
How do you plan to flash that so it doesn't leak?
I'll work something out. Patience, grasshopper.

Why do I here banjos? Take the siding off and do it the correct way. You will regret that for years to come.
It's a lean-to, not an addition to the house. Pretty sure I won't cry about it's shortcomings in future years :p
While I never intended for mine not to leak, I have been in there (trapped) during a hard rain storm and not seen any leaks (from the roof). I was quite surprised. Now I'm sure it does leak somewhere up there but for the most part its good enough for me.
I'll work something out. Patience, grasshopper.



It's a lean-to, not an addition to the house. Pretty sure I won't cry about it's shortcomings in future years :p
The header is gonna get soaked, rot out and fail. A day would get the siding off the header installed and flashed with two people. I'm not jabbing at you, just looking at the future and I see trouble where a days work would eliminate for good. Good luck however you do it.

I gotta do it to mine next year down one side and across the back, 78' total. That might take a three day weekend...
The header is gonna get soaked, rot out and fail. A day would get the siding off the header installed and flashed with two people. I'm not jabbing at you, just looking at the future and I see trouble where a days work would eliminate for good. Good luck however you do it.

I gotta do it to mine next year down one side and across the back, 78' total. That might take a three day weekend........
I'll work something out to seal it up... it may not be the "right" way, but I'll figure it out :laughing:
2
Well, spring soccer is over and dad finally healed up his broken rib enough for us to work on it some this morning.

I've got to run the 2x4's across then start laying the roofing metal.

Attachments

See less See more
I'm used to building things to handle snow loads so I may be overthinking it here, but I'd at least run a 2x6 along the back of those posts with that 10' span to help support the roof.
No pics, but scored a free load of gravel last night from someone at church. I think the Dakota was a wee bit overloaded :eek:

I will get some pics tonight.
Got a little more work done today - All that is really left is to get some metal for the roof and figure out the dreaded sealing where it meets the wall :p

I will update with pics in the morning.
2
Got a little more work done today - All that is really left is to get some metal for the roof and figure out the dreaded sealing where it meets the wall :p

I will update with pics in the morning.
I'd pick up some R panel ridge cap pieces. Flip them upside down and mesh it up to your current panels on the shop. Screw that sucker all the way across then calk it with some roofing tar and it'll be as good as new. Just run your lean-to roof R panels under the ridge panel and you're set.



You may be able to get it pre-bent to the right angle but if not it should be easy to form it to what you need.

See less See more
21 - 40 of 62 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top