Attaching a lean-to to my shop

Oh, I'm sure there will be liberal use of sealant, lol...

Now they your ledger board (one attached to the pole building) is up you should take a cut off wheel and slice the metal siding all the way down the length of the building 1.25 inches up from the ledger board and slide in some right angle flashing to slide your new roofing under and use a good high quality, sealant to seal up the joint. You will never get it to seal up properly by butting up the metal and using sealant you need to flash it to keep it water tight.

90ctd said:

Now they your ledger board (one attached to the pole building) is up you should take a cut off wheel and slice the metal siding all the way down the length of the building 1.25 inches up from the ledger board and slide in some right angle flashing to slide your new roofing under and use a good high quality, sealant to seal up the joint. You will never get it to seal up properly by butting up the metal and using sealant you need to flash it to keep it water tight.

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I have considered that, but it seems like overkill.

Same steel I'm using. Lowes right?

twoslo4five0 said:

same steel im using.lowes right?

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Local truss/roofing supply place got it for me... actually made right here in TN. Kinda cool keeping it local :cool2:

DRM said:

I have considered that, but it seems like overkill.

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It's not overkill, it's the right way to do it.

B.A.R.K said:

It's not overkill, it's the right way to do it.

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I'll be sure to respond to this thread in 10 years when the woods rots out on me, deal? :shaking: :laughing:

DRM said:

I'll be sure to respond to this thread in 10 years when the woods rots out on me, deal? :shaking: 😆

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Quoted for posterity reasons... :flipoff2:

It should be flashed... I do agree with that.

I didn't flash mine because the shed I attached it to is already on its way out. When I build or add a new shed I will prolly do it right... money considering

DRM said:

I'll be sure to respond to this thread in 10 years when the woods rots out on me, deal? :shaking: :laughing:

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Man you are a stubborn sumbitch! :flipoff2:

Untreated wood with nothing on it to protect it, not even paint won't last 10 years if it gets wet every time it rains, I'd give it more like 2-3 years. If you get it sealed up with caulking good and it only leaks in a couple spots I'd say you'll be good for 10~ years.

However, the time it would have taken you to run a saw down the side of the building then tucked flashing up under will be a lot less than it will be in 10 years when you have to dissasemble the lean-to to replace those 2x4s and maybe take the siding off that side of the building to replace that 2x4 band if it gets inside.

I won't be there helping you do all that and it won't cost me a dime, so you can do it however you want. Just sayin'. :flipoff2:

While it's not the right way... if your intent on not using flashing and the roof metal profile is the same as on your walls use a circular saw set at 40* and cut the edge that goes up to the wall, it will fit like a glove. Try a piece of scrap, you may need to adjust the 40* to match the slope of the roof

You guys *almost* have me convinced to cut the main wall and slip the flashing under there...

Dooooo Itttttttt!

DRM said:

Finally... roof is done. Not sealed up, but I'll get to that probably in the spring.

Worst part? It's already FULL :shaking:

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Did you flash it?:flipoff2:


Mine will be full the instant it goes up too. My place is a magnet for stuff.

Cutting metal

So it's a slightly old thread but was curious if there is a likelihood of the fiberglass insulation igniting if using a cutting wheel to cut the metal siding to out a flashing in for the leanto roof. I have insulation in the wall but need to cut for flashing with a metal wheel, worried about heated up metal and all the sparks.

The fiberglass itself isn't flammable. If it has a vapor barrier or kraft facing you have to be careful that they don't ignite.