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Toy Fawk-U er FAQ

Alright... I have been thinking it would be cool to have a Toyota FAQ.

Anyway, I spent a couple hours searching the board and trying to put together some useful shit to get it started. I got most of this from the board with some additions from my own experience or what I think I know. As a result it is very possible some of the information is incorrect.

I assumed from the get go that this would be a group effort. I didn't search for the FJ55 stuff for the Master Cylinder for instance. So if you think it is a piss poor idea I will delete it if someone else doesn't... otherwise I am open to suggestion and will edit false information for sure.

Thermostat Problem

Question:
“Why does my engine temp go all the way up to the red before it comes back down to the middle of the gauge after I start it up in the morning. It only does this when the engine is cold and once it warms up it seems to operate normally. Could it be as simple as a stuck thermostat?”

Answer:
(From Roger Brown’s Web Site)

“What happens on the 22R and 22RE engine, when the coolant goes through the heater core it gets cooled off enough that when it gets dumped back in on top of the t-stat it shuts it. Therefore the temperature in the engine continues to go up. The t-stat that I have mentioned has two valves in it, one at the regular temp. and one smaller on at a cooler temp. If the cool water shuts the big one, the smaller one stays open. All this happens because of the lack of a by-pass hose, which on other systems, keeps hot coolant running on the t-stat.”

You can get the two-stage thermostat mentioned above from your local Toyota Dealer.
Part Number: #90916-03070

Chevy Springs

Everything you ever wanted to know about Chevy Springs… is in this thread:
Chevy Spring FAQ

If you actually have a question that is not answered there… that would be a great place to ask it so the answer is there for everyone else.

44044 Springs

44044s are Rancho Jeep Wagoneer Lift Springs.

Length: 47”
Center Pin split (front/rear) 22.5"/24.5"
Bushing: 3”
Lift: 5.25 - 5.5”
Cost: $250

44044's do not (by themselves) move your axle forward. They are the same length on the front half as stock toys (22.5"). While they do move the axle forward because of the lift they provide, when they compress to the point that they are flat, it's the same." Estimated 1/2" of actual axle relocation forward.

(Length is eye to eye)
(Lift is approximate and uses 1.5” longer than stock shackles giving 3/4” of lift)
(Cost is for both sides incl. shipping/give or take)

Wagoneer Springs

“Waggy Springs”

These are stock Jeep Wagoneer Springs

Length: 47”
Bushing: 3”
Lift: 3.5 - 3.75”
Cost: $160

Cost is new from JcWhitney: $78 each
Part No: 07RJ2047B 5 leaf
Part No: 07RJ2047P 7 leaf

Used should be cheap and come out of mid seventies to mid eighties waggies. 7 leaf is supposed to be the ones you look for.

(Length is eye to eye)

Cone Washers

Cone washers are the washers that are behind the nuts holding on Toyota wheel hubs and steering arms.
Cone washers are a pain in the ass. Anyone from the dry areas of the southwest will tell you that a good smack on the stud will loosen them up. If you are in or near the Midwest... forget that.

Using one or all of the following (most likely all) you should be able to get them off.
  • Soak it in something like PB Blaster
  • Put the nut on the stud and hit the nut with a brass drift and hammer
  • Use an air chisel - being careful of studs etc
  • Wedge a screwdriver or similar into the small slit of the washer
  • Beat the hub housing like a red-headed step child with a hard plastic or rubber mallet
If worst comes to worst (and if you are in the Midwest it probably will) then you can try hitting the hub housing itself with a small sledge hammer. At this point you will want to hit it with one anyway. The trick is not hitting hard enough to damage it.

Brake Rotor Swap

Some folks like to swap out their solid rotors for vented rotors. This is a simple and somewhat inexpensive modification. I did this swap because my brakes were getting very hot and making some very annoying noises. If you can change your brakes you should not have any problem with this swap.

All you need are rotors from an '81 and up Toyota LC FJ40 and calipers from an IFS Toyota (86+ P-up or 4Runner).

The Land Cruiser rotors are wider because they are vented but otherwise fit right on with no other modification besides the caliper.
The caliper comes in two flavors... one has two larger pistons and two smaller, and another has four pistons that are the same size. The ones with four large pistons would technically give you more braking force. I used the same pads because mine were still fairly new... so you don't need new pads unless yours are low.

Larger Master Cylinder

In addition to the Rotor swap, some people like to put bigger MCs in so that they have more fluid movement.

In this case, you want to acquire a Master Cylinder for a V6 P-up. It should be the 1" Bore. This is pretty much a bolt in replacement. Requiring you to move some brake lines slightly at worst.

Bleeding Brakes

This is the proper way to bleed your brakes to avoid spongy brakes, etc...

Opp's said:
"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."

1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)
Adding Power
Thanks to DRM for saving this, and Tim for giving the advice.

Originally posted by DRM

"Ok ready, first pull off the efi fuse for a couple of seconds, then reinstall it. Grab some Autolite #65 plugs, and side gap them at .048. Set the valve clearance to .011 cold. Install the factory carbed thermostat {Pappy: it's a 180* vs. 190*). Adjust the AFM 3 teeth rich (under 5000 a.s.l.). Start the motor, let idle till you reach operating temp. Set the timing at 16* "not short circuted," {Pappy: about the same as 8* shorted} then take it for a putt, re check the timing, and enjoy. Leave the airbox alone, for it's not a cause of starvation on a stocker, and don't worry about the muffler for now. If you're going to modify the exhaust, start with a header, and 2.5" headpipe."

A follow-up from later that day:

"... you pull the EFI fuse to start the ECU's regathering of fuel mixture readings, because you are altering them via the AFM. The #65's are a hotter plug, and will in this case create a more efficient burn. You WILL NOT detonate when the timing is set 16* NOT SHORT CIRCUTED, because the end reading when short circuted will be 8* advanced. The afm adjustment enrichens the motor aproximately 3cc. This is necessary due to the timing advance, which requires a proper mixture."

I found the AFM 3 teeth to be too rich for my high desert home (driveway is 5200 ft) and have backed it down to 1 tooth rich.
[/B]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ross hildebrandt said:
i think this is a good idea. maybe it will cut down on all the repeat questions. i can't think of anything right now to add.

maybe some information about cross over steering, radiators, lockers, lincoln lockers, and shocks.
Well, after a couple hours I realized that this was not going to be the easy job that I thought it would be.

Everytime I thought of something to put five more things popped into my head.

Definately could be a good thing if the group gave it a concerted effort.

Besides... we could say "Read the FAQ" before "Do a Search"
 

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Discussion Starter #4
flimmy said:
Your link to Rodger Brown's Web site goes to the 63" chevy spring page.:rolleyes:
Fixed.

morpheus said:
good info. your info about the 44044's and waggy springs says one has a 3" bushing and the other a 2.5" bushing. they should both be the same, it's a 2.5" spring with 1/4" bushings on each side making the total width 3" might alleviate any confusion.
Fixed.

Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
4-runnin said:
Heres a frequently asked question that perhaps someone can answer me.


When rebuilding as Toyota live axel, I have heard of a bearing set that must be replaced in order to prevent continued leaking.
What is this bearing called? Thanks
I don't think there are any bearings that do that...

Obviously if it is the wheel bearings then you have other issues.

I think what you are referring to is the Spindle Bushing. It is a brass bushing that helps center the shaft in the spindle. If it is worn it will let the shaft rattle around and damage the seals leading to premature failure.

Part Number: 90999-70067 according to this thread
 

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44044's do not (by themselves) move your axle forward. They are the same length on the front half as stock toys (22.5"). While they do move the axle forward because of the lift they provide, when they compress to the point that they are flat, it's the same.
Stock toy rears move the axle forward because they are only 20.5" on the front half.
 

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also waggy's and 44044's need a 3/8? inch spacer on driver side to make the truck sit level. the waggs are built identical since they are on a dana. toys are built stupid and uneven. the spacer can be bought at all-pro fairly easily through chris geiger.
Pinion angle is an issue if you just bolt waggs to the stock location. If you have dropped hanger or dual cases the problem is lessend. Man toy FAQ eh... have you asked lance if he'd throw it up as at least a sticky? waste of time if it bleeds into the eternal BB never to be seen again.
 

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Re: Toy Fawk-U er FAQ

Originally posted by Entropy Cone WashersUsing one or all of the following (most likely all) you should be able to get them off....[/B]
No! I used all of those brass drift on stud/ hitting locking hub body methods for about 2 days and got nothing. All you need is 2 whacks as hard as you can hit with a 3lb. baby-sledge right on the red X in this pic. I tried every method I could think of to get them loose. This got them off in less than 2 minutes. Just make sure you have the nuts on the studs. 2 of them shot across the floor. Hit it hard twice, rotate the hub 1/3 turn and repeat. You'll have the hub off in no time. Anyone that's seen the axle I've got knows that it was as rusty as they come...

And this did no visible damage to the hub. Lay into that hammer, buddy!
 

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4-runnin said:
When rebuilding as Toyota live axel, I have heard of a bearing set that must be replaced in order to prevent continued leaking.
What is this bearing called? Thanks
I think you're talking about the brass bushing inside the spindle, as was already posted. If you're worried about bearings, got the rebuild kit from JToutfitters. Comes with everything the other kits do, plus the hard-to-find 54mm/2-1/8" socket, and timken wheel bearings.

All the bearings I got were either Timken or SKF. The 82 FJ-40 rotors I got were OEM quality parts from Japan, too. Thier stuff is pricey, but it's top of the line.

[EDIT:] Forgot... Super rebuild kit was $199 and their site is http://www.jtoutfitters.com
 

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The way i figure it is that if my sentences run into each other then I am just thinking. Thats how I think I guess. Great fabbers jump ideas untill it's time to dwell.
Oh and bob you did understand it so whats your issue :D :confused:
What other FAQ's do we want to cover?
Gearing..... with a 4 banger and single case
stock 3.96 or 4.10= 31 or smaller tire
4.88=33 inch tire
5.29= 35to 38 inch tire.
5.71= 35 to 38 inch tire street truck. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another big one would be "What do I need to do to fit xx" tires?"

I think that is probably the biggest one.
 

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trail fix

if you don't have an axle seal when you break a birfield use about a 1/4" slice of (toyota) radiator hose ...it still leaks a little but it doesn't dump out..
 

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You don't have to use a spacer with 44044s. I don't, and you can't tell.

I also run 4.10s with 35s. It's a little slow off the line but it isn't to bad once you get used to it. If you don't have to run over 35 MPH just keep the front box in low :D

If you put the end of the 44044 with 2 clamps forward it does move the axle forward by itself. I measured mine and it's 24" to the rear and 22" to front CE to center pin, mounted.
 

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I PMed Camo about making this a sticky... but I haven't heard anything yet... I think Lance is out of town, so I am not sure who is the "right" person to ask...
 

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I'd also add somthing about dfferent types of lockers (Air, electric etc...):skull:
 

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And this did no visible damage to the hub. Lay into that hammer, buddy!No! I used all of those brass drift on stud/ hitting locking hub body methods for about 2 days and got nothing. All you need is 2 whacks as hard as you can hit with a 3lb. baby-sledge right on the red X in this pic. I tried every method I could think of to get them loose. This got them off in less than 2 minutes. Just make sure you have the nuts on the studs. 2 of them shot across the floor. Hit it hard twice, rotate the hub 1/3 turn and repeat. You'll have the hub off in no time. Anyone that's seen the axle I've got knows that it was as rusty as they come...

I remember reading that in a post a month or two ago, so when I was changing my rotors yesterday, that hammer came out of the toolbox early. A good whack and no problem with the cone washers, thanks to this BB.
 

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"If you're worried about bearings, got the rebuild kit from JToutfitters. Comes with everything the other kits do, plus the hard-to-find 54mm/2-1/8" socket, and timken wheel bearings. "

That's a 2 3/32" socket!
 

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How to Install a 4.7 gearset

Brandon and Flashlightman wrote this killer step bt step how-to for installing a set of 4.7's. Heres the link to it. I used it yesterday to prep my case for a set. Made the proccess a breeze!

4.7 Gear Installl How-to
 
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