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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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I've run a cheap auto-store stacked plate, 12"x12" didn't work too well, may have been due to air pockets or not enough air movement.

Switched to a 12"x12" tube cooler (like the one at the top), better but still not enough. So I will be moving the cooler under the back bed section with dedicated fan. I'm running a 727 auto which tend to run hot.

My 2 cents
 

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I went to the exact Derale cooler your pic above shows a few years ago back on my transmission when I played in mud & rock. It was mounted in the bed of the truck back then, so having a built in elec fan was a giant plus for me. I can't give a number, but the old "pull the dipstick out & grab the end" technique to find out how hot is was running said it helped tremedously over the stock through the radiator & external cooler in front of the radiator setup I had stock.
I think effectiveness is going to be all relative to how much airflow you have. If you pull enough air though your radiator with your current fan setup, & you put a standard cooler in the proper place in front of it, it should work fine. But if you can't mount in a high airflow spot on the radiator, the one with the built in fan would probably be the way to go. I just have a non-fan cooler on my power steering for now with almost no air being drawn though it & it helps with alot of crawl, stop, watch the next 10 rigs come through crawling, but I really need to mount it in front of the radiator.
 

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I'm running a Flex-a-Lite dual circuit cooler mounted above the rear axle with a dedicated fan.



It's a 6 pass cooler (4 and 2). I'm using the 4 pass side for the auto tranny... 2 pass side for power steering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SolidAxleDurango said:
It's a 6 pass cooler (4 and 2). I'm using the 4 pass side for the auto tranny... 2 pass side for power steering.
Does a 4 pass for the tranny even make a difference?

I was hoping to get some opinion on the lower picture radiator...they are supposed to be high preformance with very little fluid resistance. That seems good and all, but in a low speed situation, would a fan driven 16 pass be better?
 

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I run something like whats in the lower picture. The one I run is a Setrab 920 - its 16"W x6.5"H x2"D with dual 6" spall fans mounted on a shroud thats attached to the cooler. It works great! I had run a 10"x10"perma cool tube-n-fin and then a B&M racing cooler (biggest one they make) before switching to the Setrab - the tube-n-fin cooler barely made a dent in tranny temps, the B&M helped, but still not enough - with the Setrab, my pan temps never go over 190F.
 

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NoJoke said:


Does a 4 pass for the tranny even make a difference?

........
Yeah it does.

Here's the page of info for it:

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/hdcool.htm

Mine is the 462613 model... GVWR 20,000 lbs. (for comparison of cooling capacities). 10-1/2" x 15" x 1-1/2".

Also... Hard lines are used between tranny and rear of vehicle. They run along floorboard inside the frame rail... They add "radiant" cooling as well.. To what degree not sure.. But certainly as much as one of the 12-14" frame rail coolers... Considering my WB is 116".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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I built my own Engine oil/ Power steering cooler.


I took some aluminum 4"x4"x.135" tube and capped one end and installed a 4" marine bilge blower in the other.


I have yet to make the brackets for the Setrab coolers, but here is how it looks:


The whole unit will sit behind the left head lamp, pulling in cool air from a 4" hole in the core support. The Setrab coolers are from a Turbo Volvo and were only 7.00ea from my Pic nPull.
 

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Old Scout said:
I built my own Engine oil/ Power steering cooler.


I took some aluminum 4"x4"x.135" tube and capped one end and installed a 4" marine bilge blower in the other. ... The Setrab coolers are from a Turbo Volvo and were only 7.00ea from my Pic nPull.
What years/models would be good to look for at the local yard to find those coolers? Are they used as transmission coolers or something else?
 

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hightechredneck said:


What years/models would be good to look for at the local yard to find those coolers? Are they used as transmission coolers or something else?
There Engine oil coolers from mid 80's 240 GLT series. The inlet/outlet are BSPP hydraulic thread. Very common for anything European. A hydraulic shop will have adapters to standard JIC thread.
 

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Old Scout said:
I built my own Engine oil/ Power steering cooler.


very nice :)

-"always on", manual switch, or thermostatically controlled?

-bilge pump rated for continuous use I guess, or no?

-your thoughts on possible "over cooling" of oil, below it's optimum temp?
 

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UZI 9mm said:
Old Scout said:
I built my own Engine oil/ Power steering cooler.


very nice :)

-"always on", manual switch, or thermostatically controlled?

-bilge pump rated for continuous use I guess, or no?

-your thoughts on possible "over cooling" of oil, below it's optimum temp?
Manual switch for now. It's a blower not a pump!



Anything marine and a safety item is well made per USCG orders. It can run continuous and handle water with no problems. Their $18-22.00 at most boat supply houses.
 
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