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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What other solutions do i have besides expensive highsteer system? I have installed a stiffer steering stabilizer, it helped, but bump steer is still very bad, should i add another steering stabilizer in at another point?

what to do???
 

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PUT YOUR FACTORY TRAC BAR BACK ON WITH A RELOCATION BRACKET FROM A 4" LIFT KIT. iT WILL HELP TREMENDOUSLY IN THE STABILITY OF YOUR JEEP AND IT WON'T LIMIT FLEX AT ALL WITH SOA, UNLESS YOU'RE RUNNING MORE THAN 2" SPRINGS SOA THEN YOU'LL NEED A LONGER TRAC BAR OR A CUSTOM MOUNT. JUST MAKE SURE THAT YOU KEEP THE ANGLES THE SAME BETWEEN YOUR DRAG LINK AND THE TRACK BAR.
 

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Originally posted by xjxtreme:
<STRONG>PUT YOUR FACTORY TRAC BAR BACK ON WITH A RELOCATION BRACKET FROM A 4" LIFT KIT. iT WILL HELP TREMENDOUSLY IN THE STABILITY OF YOUR JEEP AND IT WON'T LIMIT FLEX AT ALL WITH SOA, UNLESS YOU'RE RUNNING MORE THAN 2" SPRINGS SOA THEN YOU'LL NEED A LONGER TRAC BAR OR A CUSTOM MOUNT. JUST MAKE SURE THAT YOU KEEP THE ANGLES THE SAME BETWEEN YOUR DRAG LINK AND THE TRACK BAR.</STRONG>
Unless SMARTASS hasn't updated his profile it looks like he has a Ford Ranger?

It might help to know what rig your getting bump stear on. Just a thought. Most bumpstear is caused from caster IMHO.
 

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Try slowing down! I run 2.5" springs ontop of my SOA setup, no track bar, no sway bars nothing and never get bump steer unless I start driving to fast around corners..
 

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Most of the time on a spring over people think they should rotate the pinion up. This is a huge mistake and causes the bumpsteer problems. The front front perches should be set 4-5 degree more positive then stock ( another words pinion will rotate down) If this was done correctly then you dont need a track bar or sway bar and you could even take the steering stabilizer off...LOL. I have absolutly zero bumpsteer. Just my .02

BlueYJ <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Rockbuggy:
<STRONG>Try slowing down! I run 2.5" springs ontop of my SOA setup, no track bar, no sway bars nothing and never get bump steer unless I start driving to fast around corners..</STRONG>

in other words...

i never get bumpsteer until i get bumpsteer
<IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/grinpimp.gif" border="0">
 

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Nice Alfred! Nooooo Actually I dont drive my spring over wrangler with 38.5" TSL like a maniac.. Come on if your running a spring over your obviously working with atleast 35" tires, around 5-6 of lift. You shouldnt be driving fast anymore... Just cruise around, the last thing we need is a bunch of morons flying around in there jeeps all out of control because there front axle is ready to rip out from under it! <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a 1985 ford ranger with a dana 30 under the front, from a 1987 YJ. It works great! But the bump steer is fairly bad.

I am running 54" long CJ7 rear leaf springs, they are flat, i plan on having them arched to a 3" lift.

Yes I have a 4" drop pitman arm, i will be installing the traction bar soon, when i get the drop bracket for it, maybe that will help.

What about the Z shape link ? does this help? or is it just asking for trouble?

What do yall think about running dual steering stabilizers? one in the stock location and another from the frame to the pitman arm?

So i guess the ultimate resolution is X-Over steering system, eh? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Do you mean 45" rear CJ springs? More stabilizers arent going to help. You need to get the steering geometry correct. Pics would help <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by SMART ASS:
<STRONG>

Yes I have a 4" drop pitman arm, i will be installing the traction bar soon, when i get the drop bracket for it, maybe that will help.

What about the Z shape link ? does this help? or is it just asking for trouble?

What do yall think about running dual steering stabilizers? one in the stock location and another from the frame to the pitman arm?

So i guess the ultimate resolution is X-Over steering system, eh? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
A z draglink shouldn't really cahnge anything, other than help the angles on TRE's. I haven't run a stabilizer in a long time, I don't need one. Sounds to me like everybody here thinks your caster is more of the problem. Try x-over, or go full hysteer, and then you may want to adjust caster too.
 

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Your caster angle is wrong. Period. None of those other "fixes" (stabilizers, Z-shaped draglink) address the real issue. Can't comment on a Ranger (not sure why it's on the Jeep board), but YJs should have similar caster (~7 degrees) after SOA as they had stock.

I run no trackbars, no swaybars, no stabilizer and have no bumpsteer, but my caster is dead-on at 7 degrees. HTH.
Dion

BTW: What unit are you in? Did you go to Fort McClellan? I was there in 1987 for MP school. Served in the 800th MP Brigade during Desert Storm. Combat MPs, we operated a forward EPW compound at Hafr al Batin.
 

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Please explain WTF caster has to do with bump steer. I always thought BS was easy - axle moves up, if it moves in an arc or line different than the drag link end wants to move, the force of the axle is forced up into the drag link through the steering box into the steering wheel.
With SOA (leafs) the axle wants to go pretty much straight up and down, so to minimize BS keep the drag link near to parallel to the axle - drop pitman arm or hi steer.
With a track bar on there (leafs or coils) the track bar forces the axle into an arc as it moves up and down. To minimize BS, keep the drag link and track bar parallel and keep their respective pivot points as close to directly in front of each other as possible.
What does the angle of the ball joints/knuckle have to do with this?
 

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Originally posted by Lucy's Driver:
<STRONG>Please explain WTF caster has to do with bump steer. I always thought BS was easy - axle moves up, if it moves in an arc or line different than the drag link end wants to move, the force of the axle is forced up into the drag link through the steering box into the steering wheel.
With SOA (leafs) the axle wants to go pretty much straight up and down, so to minimize BS keep the drag link near to parallel to the axle - drop pitman arm or hi steer.
With a track bar on there (leafs or coils) the track bar forces the axle into an arc as it moves up and down. To minimize BS, keep the drag link and track bar parallel and keep their respective pivot points as close to directly in front of each other as possible.
What does the angle of the ball joints/knuckle have to do with this?</STRONG>

yep, tie-rod and drag link should be parallel - this will get rid of BSteer
 

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Originally posted by Lucy's Driver:
<STRONG>Please explain WTF caster has to do with bump steer. I always thought BS was easy - axle moves up, if it moves in an arc or line different than the drag link end wants to move, the force of the axle is forced up into the drag link through the steering box into the steering wheel.
With SOA (leafs) the axle wants to go pretty much straight up and down, so to minimize BS keep the drag link near to parallel to the axle - drop pitman arm or hi steer.
With a track bar on there (leafs or coils) the track bar forces the axle into an arc as it moves up and down. To minimize BS, keep the drag link and track bar parallel and keep their respective pivot points as close to directly in front of each other as possible.
What does the angle of the ball joints/knuckle have to do with this?</STRONG>
So far this is the only post that makes much sense to me!!! I think the rest are kinda confused <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> on what bumpsteer is, its not wehn you hit a bump or a rut and it forces your tires to turn(which would be less noticable with more castor) its when the suspension compresses or extends in an arc defferent then that of your steering linkage and therefore the tires are forced to turn. If you reall have bumpsteer take take the front shocks off get up to about 30mph on an empty road hold the steering wheel dead straight, and slam on the brakes! the front end diving will induce bumpsteer and either cause the steering wheel or tires to turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would like to be known as SMART ASS, But i think after writing what i am about to write some of you may call me a DUMB ASS.

Anyway, I have both problems, hit a bump and the wheels want to turn, sometimes uneven pavement causes the wheels to turn makes me look like im driving drunk. Its not as bad as im making it sound, but it is a PITA and i have had some close calls. Wish i could have a more stablized steering setup.

So i guess my only option is to get some degree shims and shim up my spring perches and see if it really is a camber. And to install the traction bar with a 4" lift drop bracket...

Thanx guys!
 

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Sorry, guys, I was responding to another friend on a similar topic and got my responses confused (damn drugs!).

Yes, the tie rod and draglink should be parallel. That is the root cause of bumpsteer. Thanks for the correction.

However, proper caster certainly does play a role in the equation, all other things being equal. My tie rod and draglink are nowhere near parallel, yet I have no bumpsteer.
Dion
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
HEY DUDE. I OWE YOU A COLD ONE <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> I installed 4* shims rom 4WP and dam, what a fwakn difference, almost eliminated the steering problems, also installed some RS9000's in the rear, also made things more stable...

AGAIN THANX!

-And for tonight only i shal be known as DUMB ASS <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> :USA:

Originally posted by BlueYJ:
<STRONG>Most of the time on a spring over people think they should rotate the pinion up. This is a huge mistake and causes the bumpsteer problems. The front front perches should be set 4-5 degree more positive then stock ( another words pinion will rotate down) If this was done correctly then you dont need a track bar or sway bar and you could even take the steering stabilizer off...LOL. I have absolutly zero bumpsteer. Just my .02

BlueYJ <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
 
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