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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is the plan for my 95 D1. Unless someone here knows of any major problems with this combination. I did a search but did not find much on the high pinion.
Rear axle ford nine with currie high pinion center and 35 spline shafts. For the front a high pinion dana 44 from a 76 to 77 ford F150 pickup, the ones that had leaf springs. I believe I can pull the tubes, flip them end for end and with a little shortening get them to the right offset for the diff on my truck. Otherwise I can completly retube the d44 if flipping the tubes don't work out. Plan to run 4.10 gears and 33's for now and possible 35's in the future with a stock 3.9 engine.
 

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Save your time and effort and just put some aftermarket rear shafts in the stock housing (good for 35ish tires). And stuff the front end in some aftermarket Toy components. Those should be good for 36-37" tires in the front. Your weak link will be the rear ring and pinion. If you are worried, then just replace the rear with one of the drop in solutions (Sals, 9" etc).

Also remember that the Currie high pinion 9" is not really a 9". It uses the R+P outta a 8.8" diff. Which is not even close to the same strength. They only recommend it up to 35" tires. With your wheelbase a regular 9" with the pinion tipped up as it should be for a CV jointed driveshaft, should get the important parts out of the way.

Putting that D44 in the front of your D1 will be WAY more work than you think. And WAY more expensive than you expect.j

Billster
 

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I agree with Billster, Put some heavy shafts in rear, and maybe a 110 CV upgrade in front and you will be good to go. No need for a 9" or D44 with just 33s or 35s for that matter.

Brad
 

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You might want to rethink the D44 up front. Pulling tubes is a real beotch. Especially if it's your first time. You might just have a proffessional shop do this part. I'm gonna agree with everyone else that if you go all Toy stuff up front (getting rid of the crappy RR CVs/3rd member) you should be set.

As far as the rear...you realize that the 9" has a center diff and you going to have to change the tubes on that as well. Whatever you do make sure to truss that 9" because I believe your looking at a non-banjo style 9" which is weaker than others.

Are you going to be 4 linking the front & rear or staying with the stock suspension setup?

All of this adds up to a lot of work, just keep that in mind before you jump into it.
 

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I agree with a toy centre up front, and toy or aeu2522 cv's. And while you are at it, why not put a toy centre in the rear too. With 30spl cro-mo axles there will be no problems with strength.
 

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I would go for a toy center up front with PIG axles and the new 4340 Longfields. In the rear I would also put a toy center and some HD axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I looked at doing the toyota conversion for the front and did not find a real cost benefit over a d44 in the long run. I am still in school and have access to the shop with everything needed to build an axle and I have the time to do it. The d44 axle is $100, the tube is $30 and shafts will cost about the same as toyota shafts but u-joints are a lot cheaper than CV. The big gain is no more land rover brakes or rims. My truck has 130,000 miles and needs both front calipers and rotors replaced.
For the rear I know the high pinion uses the 8.8 gears and I have seen them fail. I have also seen the advatages having the driveshaft up out of the way. This is something I am still thinking about. The toyota conversoin here would be cheaper but the nine would have the same bolt pattern as the D44 and use cheaper brakes and gears.
The suspension will recieve some changes no matter what a decide to run for axles. I am going away from the stock mounts at the frame and looking at using hiems or johnny joints for both front and rear. The front may get a four link or may just modify stock arms were they attach to the frame. I might have to do a little testing to determine what it ends up with.
 

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I think that if you do decide to put in a non rover axle that you may explore doing both a front and rear ford 9". You can upgarde them to be plenty beefy. The 44 up front will only be "undestructable" to 35" tires. Anything bigger and you will want to put in better axles. dana 44 axles are very tough though. I am running 37" tires and I broke my first stock axle for the Dana 44 after 2 years. I am now putting in CTM with Chromo axles. There is a lot to be said about switching components to non-rover. I feel in the long run it is worth it, wven though it is a TON more work.

My 2 cents

Way
 

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personal experience....
have a d44 in front of my buggie. ran 35" tires and nary broke a shaft (well i did spit out a ujoint cap)
i now run 38.5 sx's and i have broked no less than six d44 front shafts....
how many toy shafts? a big whopping 0..
thats right the toy rear axle in my buggie runs all day with a heafty 4 link and 10,000ft/lbs of torque (ok mabe 8k) but still its enough to eat d44 shafts like candy and the stock 30spl toy rear shafts rock.
i would do the toy third swap.
the d44 swap may seem cheap now, bone cheap with the same set up you are looking at cost me 1k$. use the 1/100 rule, if you think its going to be a buck, it will be a 100.
not trying to pick on you, i don't know how many times i was given this speach. you have to ask yourself how many times do you want to build it?
 

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:flipoff2: oh boy! i just realised where you are from.....holy crap, mankato state :laughing: i grew up in fargo, ya know. haven't been to that neck of the woods since 91 :cool2: i am a desert rat now with real rocks and everything.
good luck with the build, i know where you are coming from. i wouldn't have listened to me either (i did what i wanted, don't regret it either :D )
 

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I totally agree with Way - Go Ford 9" both front & rear. The 9" housing has the same ground clearance as a Dana 44 - and can be shaved for maybe a 1/4" more clearance even. You may not have heard about the high pinion 9" axles out there - they became available a couple months ago and I know several rock climbers have installed them and so far everything has held up just fine under some very severe usage. This axle is a true high pinion 9" and I believe it'll ultimately be proven/shown to be stronger than a Dana 60 in off-road use. I'm in the process of attempting to sell my entire Toyota rear axle, so I can go the hi 9" in the rear, as I'll gain over 4.5 additional inches of clearance for my U-joint and driveshaft and be full-floated. This high pinion 9" will easily take 35 spline axles and ARB makes a 35 spline locker for the 9", so it's really a no-brainer for those of us wanting to upgrade our strength on a low budget. Once I'm able and have that installed, I'll replace my Dana 44 front with the hi 9" - The difference in strength will be huge and I have a well built Dana 44 front (CTMs, chevy ends, ARB, warn alloy axles, warn hubs). Here's some sites here on pirate, where the hi 9" is discussed:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251619&highlight=D44+alternative

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=224952&highlight=D44+alternative

Here is the site of the people who "invented" the true high pinion 9":

http://www.truehi9.com/
 

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One point to make. If we are comparing front 44s to a toy lets keep the topic there. Dana 44 rears are a whole different story all together. Nice write up on the 9". You are obviously a lot less lazy when it comes to posting than I am. However your thoughts that you posted is exactly what I am getting at.
 

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"so it's really a no-brainer for those of us wanting to upgrade our strength on a low budget." :laughing:

Yes I agree that the 9in is the best option out there and I fully believe that the R+P in the 9in is stronger than the Dana 60's, BUT, have you seen how much that dude is charging for the true HP 9in??? There is no way that is a low budget alternative. Plus, if you want real beef, you have to get a Dana 60 and cut the tubes off for the knuckles and U-Joints. The cheapest way to do that is just to buy a complete dana 60 and those things are going for $1500, unless you have great luck in junk yard. It's definently a bad-ass setup, but good luck getting it with the 1.5 inchers for less than $2,500 bare minimum and thats if you do everything yourself.
 
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