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Was that "hitch Stock" from your local steel supplier? I was wanting to get some myself, but I knew I didnt want the stuff with the internal seem...Just didnt know exactly what to ask for.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I'll have more to add to this table sooner or later to hold grinders and consumables, but for now it's awesome!

Yep, it's a specific tube they use. It's usually marked as 2.53x2.53 on the outside, and the inside seam is ground down. Then just use 2x2 .250 for the insert and call it good :smokin:
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Well I finally have a need to straighten a bent axle housing, so I'm putting this table to the test. I had to make some new jack stands a bit taller to squeeze a 20 ton bottle jack under them. I also made a set of centered axle holders (vs the previous offset ones), and put additional 1/2" holes to hold chain.

Not sure if you can see the bend in this picture above the silver chain, but it's bad enough to where I can't even get the axle jig bar all the way through the housing, it hits the inner wall of the longside tube.


And here's the new setup. I'm not done with the housing yet, but it works awesome! I was able to put a TON of force into the housing and I didn't see any deflection in the top of the table. My only complaint is how narrow I made the stands, I can't get the chain clamps wide enough away from the bottle jack to get decent leverage, so tomorrow I'm adding another pair of receiver tubes just inside the box tube perimeter of the table. I called it quits when I popped one of the single shear 1/2" bolts holding the chain in place. A double shear tab and better leverage ratio should help out with that
 
Instead of round cradles specific to each diameter, did you consider making 90-degree Vs that would handle any size? That would also make it easier to have a solid bar clamp down over the V instead of working with chains.
i like it. i might have to add some vertical receiver tube pieces like that when i build my table.
This is another option to get the vise vertical:



That also keeps the receiver where it's easy to stab the vise in, without holes in the tabletop.
 
That might be the smallest pic I've ever seen or not seen posted!:D
It's called a thumbnail, you click on it. :flipoff2:
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I just have a single 3.5" cradle, nice and universal for all sizes. Angle iron would work great also, but I don't feel the need to change things up yet. What do you mean about having a solid bar clamp down, the idea sounds intriguing. and initially I had plans tor a hinged axle clamp, just never finished the thought process. I was half tempted to make a quick chain hook so I could use no bolts at all, just drop the chain in to these welded to each side of the 2x2 and go.
 
Are you just heating the bent area and then pumping the jack as you go? How often do you run the bar through to check for true? Basically what is your technique for straightening an axle as bent as that?
 
Discussion starter · #31 · (Edited)
My initial findings told me that 99% of what happened is the tube cracked it's plug welds and stretched the center section. There are no cracks and no intense bends in the tube, but the tube opening in the center section is wallowed out. So far all I've done is used the bottle jack, and made a significant improvement in the housing. It was working, but obviously needed enough force to break the 1/2" bolt so heat is the next step I will be taking to lessen the pressures needed. I need the heat anyways as once it's straight the tube is getting welded and reinforced, which I want a decent pre and post heat for.

*edit* If i were trying to straighten a bent tube, I'd work at it by adding some pressure via this setup, but mostly heating the full circumference and specifically quenching the tube on the outside of the bend to draw it back into alignment.
 
It's called a thumbnail, you click on it. :flipoff2:
Ya I gotcha I first looked it on my phone and tryed clicking but it wasnt working but ya I see now that im on my computer.
 
What do you mean about having a solid bar clamp down...
A single rigid part (as opposed to a bunch of floppy chain links). You might have a common 5/8" hitch pin on each side of the V, with the bar normally held on by 1 and flipped to the rear. When you need to clamp a tube (as opposed to just cradling it), you'd flip it forward & slide in the front pin. Then a LARGE bolt on top in the center of the bar could be screwed down to hold any diameter tube firmly at the bottom of the V. Something like this:

 
Here is the one that I made. I had the top plate laser cut 3/8, uses regular T-slot nuts from a mill. I had the axle stands flame cut out of 1". The V-clamps also use normal mill clamp tooling. The axle stands also fit the table of a Bridgeport mill you can can easily clamp and an axle in there to do any machine work. I've been thinking about making a kit with the axle stands and top plates for the table.
 

Attachments

Nice job on the stand GOAT1. The second picture from the bottom pic, I think for max variable adjustment I would have welded two pieces of angle underneath the slotted plate with a few thousands of clearence to the side rails, and NOT weld it to the frame. That way it can slide between the rails as well with a greater range of adjustment over the riser. Just my .02 cents. Bad ass though regardless.

It's similar to mine with these adjustments. Building from scratch is the way to go for sure though like you've done. I was given the base to mine free so I used it. It would probably not be how I would have built it from scratch though but hay, it works and was free. It's had three 1 ton axles sitting in it for years now and my 12 yr old kid can push it easily.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
That stand is definitely slick! Do you use it for much straightening or mostly assembly?

I finally had time to spend at the shop, and added a wider set of hitch locations to increase my leverage on the housing. I finished straightening it up today, and couldn't be more happy with the results. I didn't break any more bolts and the tube is within about 1/16", you can see the bar through both sides. I had the spare length of chain hanging in front of the bolts as a dead weight to stop them from going projectile if they break (like the last ones did) just in case.
 
Axle stand

Fwaking nice builds folks...

I am building an axle stand for the gear setup and bracket welding purpose. I picked up an old engine stand to use has a rolling base. It will have a couple of adjustable uprights with one of them topped with a "chain vise"...

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/700x700/153/153790_700x700.jpg


It will probably never see anything bigger then a 60...(in my dreams).
I will post up pictures when I am done...:smokin:
 
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