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107
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Discussion Starter #1
So I broke a front long side shaft in my Dana 60 over new years and drove on it a little bit the rest of the weekend, arb unlocked, hub drive slug still in. Looking back on it....maybe not the best decision. :homer:





So now...I have the rest of the long side (half of it) still in the axle tube. I've tried....
- Magnet to pull it out
- Bigger magnet
- Trying to push on it around the center pin
- Trying to pull the carrier out
- Trying to force the carrier out with a rag between the gears
- Trying to force the carrier out with my winch
- Pulling on the shaft with a small rope lasso cinched onto the shaft

So far, the magnet does nothing, I can't seem to get a punch onto the actual shaft to push on it around the center pin, and the rope lasso (despite being tight) eventually just slips off. I don't have a stick welder to try to weld something onto the end somehow and slide hammer the shaft out. My short side, which was fine, was also a PITA to get out, and needed a little leverage on the ears to pry it out. Splines looked ok, so just had some kind of suction in there. I have the spinning super duty seals on my inner seals, so these may be making things a little more difficult, but this is getting ridiculous.

Is there a way to remove the center pin from the ARB? I don't see a setscrew like in a normal open diff. I could try heat, but im hesitant to want to do that on the side where the air fitting goes for the ARB, but at this point, I'm not going wheeling until this shit gets fixed, so I may have to bite the bullet.

Any further ideas?
 

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You need 2 batteries/jumper cables and a long electrode, you now have a stick welder.
You can normally get lucky enough to just stick the end of the welding rod down the tube and stick it to the axle shaft and pull it out like that.
 

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107
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Discussion Starter #4
This thing is IN THERE. I've been pulling hard on the rope lasso deal a few times with no budging, wrapping it around a prybar to get extra leverage to pull with. I'm just wondering if I'll be able to get enough of a weld on there to be able to pull as hard or harder than I have been with the rope. I was really hoping to be able to get the center pin out of the way for a solid push on the shaft end.
 

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04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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The rope has give. You need to use impact. Metal to metal type. It has been a long time since I've looked in an axle, can you cut/grind/torch the shaft so you can pull the diff and take it apart?
 

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Google Dana 60 ARB exploded view. It looks like there are 4 pin bolts that hold the cross pins in. You may have to unscrew them and cut them in half to get them out due to clearance issues with the housing. Let us know how it works out. I have always dreaded the day I would have this issue. I once had to destroy a housing to get a busted axle out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I know what you mean Frank, the rope has been the only thing so far that feels like it really is putting any force on getting the thing out. Trying the punch from the other side was my hope but i'm fairly certain it's getting stuck against the inside of the far gear, and not actually pushing on the stub, plus i only get about 1 good hit before having to get the flashlight and reset, try again, etc. I've spent about 5 nights working on this crap already

The shaft is down about 2 feet into the axle tube. Short of cutting the center section or axle tube first, i'm not getting to the shaft any way other than from each end, and one end is blocked by that center pin. Unless i get a 2' long, straight, torch head down into the tube to heat/melt the shaft to get something accomplished.
 

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107
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Discussion Starter #9
Odd, mine doesn't look like either the RD162 or RD167. I have a lot more case bolts than the 4 they show there, more like the D70/D80 RD174

ARB Air Locker Dana 70 Dana 80 37 Spline 4.56 & Up (RD174)

I'll need to start double checking my parts in front (I bought it geared/locked) to see which model I even have. At this point, it can't hurt to try and get some of the case bolts out that look like they should line up with the center pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That looks like the one, thanks. Now I just need to figure out how to get whatever is holding in the center pins out. Hard to tell from that diagram. I suppose calling ARB might not be a bad thing...haha
 

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If you can't get the center pin out.

Take a chunk of 1.5" pvc and slip it in the axle tube so it slips over the shaft and keeps the electrode off of the axle tube. Ground to the arb. Weld a welding stick to a 3/8 extension rod and run it down the pvc welding the rod to the end of the shaft.

Replace seals in ARB when pulling apart to inspect.
 

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I thought the 60 ARB had some small gaps around the center pins.

I have used an 1/8" brass rod 4-6' long to push the broken stub out before...many many years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Small is right, and the angles of it don't seem to be working. Something long enough to go all the way past it doesn't seem to be strong enough to hold shape and actually push. The small screwdrivers and long punches i've been using get pushed to the side a little and I think are sitting against the back face of the side gear rather than firmly onto the shaft end.

Again, this isn't just removing a shaft, the magnets or lasso would have worked there, this is removing a STUCK shaft
 

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I had this exact same problem with my samurai and was completely unable to get at the diff and remove the cross pins. I tried every single hack method I could think of with no results. I did not try to weld anything to the shaft because it was broken nearly flush with the carrier and I did not want to trash the diff yet

Instead, I pulled the whole housing out of the rig and and did about 15 WWE Pile Drivers onto a big 6x6 chunk of wood. Turns out the splines were twisted in addition to the broken shaft, it was locked in there extremely tight. Probably not an option for your D60 unless you are the Hulk or have a couple of huge buddies, but its something to consider/improve upon.


You might even consider standing it up on its end and abusing it with an air chisel. The vibrations might make it let go. Or even throwing it off the roof of your house. Up to you :laughing::flipoff2:
 

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I used a .25" piece of round steel and a bfh to beat one out.
Try this from the short side, should be able to squeak around the cross pin. or maybe grab some bigger round stock and give it a few taps from the long side. Remember you just have to break the clamping/friction effect from the splines deforming in the carrier gear. So I would think some healthy beatings even just on the housing itself would loosen it a little. them after a bit of that try to fish it out again.

Couldnt hurt to chech the housing for straigtness either.

Ps. No your seal would not be retaining it enough to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Try this from the short side, should be able to squeak around the cross pin. or maybe grab some bigger round stock and give it a few taps from the long side. Remember you just have to break the clamping/friction effect from the splines deforming in the carrier gear.
Small is right, and the angles of it don't seem to be working. Something long enough to go all the way past it doesn't seem to be strong enough to hold shape and actually push. The small screwdrivers and long punches i've been using get pushed to the side a little and I think are sitting against the back face of the side gear rather than firmly onto the shaft end.
...Trying the punch from the other side was my hope but i'm fairly certain it's getting stuck against the inside of the far gear, and not actually pushing on the stub, plus i only get about 1 good hit before having to get the flashlight and reset, try again, etc.
The gap past one side gear, past the center pin, to the inside face of the inner shaft is a small one, and tough to make sure i'm on the face of the shaft before beating on it. I've been hitting it from that side with various items for some time now with no luck.

I called ARB and they said I can't remove the center pin without pulling the carrier and separating the halves. The option he gave me is just hammering the $)*% out of the center pin to get it to shear the little pin holding it in place, then pull the center pin out the other side after spinning the gears 180 deg. They have replacement shear pins but not center pins, so if i mangle the center pin, I'm sort of SOL. He said the shear pin isn't too strong, as it's sort of a fuse in case there's low oil and galling in the side gears, so...may not even be too hard. I guess this is my next course of action...
 

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The gap past one side gear, past the center pin, to the inside face of the inner shaft is a small one, and tough to make sure i'm on the face of the shaft before beating on it. I've been hitting it from that side with various items for some time now with no luck.

I called ARB and they said I can't remove the center pin without pulling the carrier and separating the halves. The option he gave me is just hammering the $)*% out of the center pin to get it to shear the little pin holding it in place, then pull the center pin out the other side after spinning the gears 180 deg. They have replacement shear pins but not center pins, so if i mangle the center pin, I'm sort of SOL. He said the shear pin isn't too strong, as it's sort of a fuse in case there's low oil and galling in the side gears, so...may not even be too hard. I guess this is my next course of action...
Can you get a piece of 1/4 wall dom almost the same diameter as the shaft (of course it would need to fit through the side gears) and use your tube notcher to cut a hole near the end of the tube through the center, the same size as the center pin, then use your grinder to make the tube fit over the center pin? This would create a two sided punch to hammer on the end of the broken shaft through the short side.
 
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