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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i swap 3/4 ton ford axles in my jeep and i have absolutly no braking power. i have to stand on them to get it to stop.

how can i get more braking power???
 

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Run a master cylinder and booster from the same truck. And be sure to match the size of the brake lines. Your's are probably smaller.
 

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Originally posted by Jeepskickass:
<STRONG>Run a master cylinder and booster from the same truck. And be sure to match the size of the brake lines. Your's are probably smaller.</STRONG>
I don't believe the line diameter will make a difference if the master and slaves are matched up. With a smaller diamater, the fluid will flow more quickly, under pressure, but as long as there is fluid, it shouldn't make a difference.
 

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in the porportioning valve of your brakes take the 0-ring out which will allow more fluid to the rear. There was a post last week about it.

BlueYJ <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Your master cylinder does not put out enough volume. You need to get a MC from a 3/4 or 1 ton truck to match the volume requirements of theaxles.
 

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ya HY_Desert is correct you will need the bigger MC.

BlueYJ <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so do i need the propotioning valve too?? will the master cylinder bolt up to my booster??
 

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i got a m/c and booster from a 77 vette that preety much bolted right up. going to drive it for the first time this week but ill let you know how it goes.
 

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its a jeep, everything "bolts up", but u can take your mc off now, take it to your local parts store, go about 2 hours before they close, and see if they can flip through the wagner brake book and find one with the same bolt pattern, i know because i work at O'Reilly Auto Parts, and i have had to do this before
 

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sorry i forgot, but the mc you have has a small rod and a small piston, u need the larger piston and larger rod to push more fluid to the brakes, the wheel cylinder on the rear requires a lot more fluid than your stock axles, and the calipers on the front have much larger pistons also
 

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i had the same problem when i swapppd to 1tons. i snagged a hydro-boosty setup from a 1ton and now it works great.....well until i was screwing around brake torqueing it in the drive way the other day and blew both of the rear wheel cylinders out of the drums on the 14bolt! oh well i need to swap to discs now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so i need to change to a 3/4 ton booster and m/c?

what about ripping that oring out of the proprotioning vavle on my jeep...would that help? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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Couldnt you just get a GM m/c with a larger bore, it should bolt right up. This is what I did, tossed the factory proportioning valve, plumb the front directly to your disks, run the rear thru an adjustable proportioning valve ( wilwood approx. $30) then adjust so your rear doesnt lock up when you mash on it on the pavement.
Good luck,
-Jeremy
BTW- if your looking for more braking assist do the caddy dual diaphram booster swap, very easy and well worth it.

[ 10-30-2001: Message edited by: Rat Patrol ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What is this all about???

BTW- if your looking for more braking assist do the caddy dual diaphram booster swap, very easy and well worth it.

[ 10-30-2001: Message edited by: Rat Patrol ][/QB][/QUOTE]

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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If you want to increase the amount of assist you get from your brake booster you can swap it for a mid to late 80's dual diaphram booster from a caddilac, mine came from a 89 sedan de ville. Fairly easy swap, and good info out there. I believe Tim in Manitoba has a write up on it, also I recall seeing an article in one of the magazine.
Is this what you were looking for? If so you can do a search for more info, shouldnt be to tough to find, I'm sure Ive seen it discussed before here or off-road.com
-Jeremy
 
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