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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im about to order a Hp60 for my xj...since the unfortunate and early departure the dana 44...
im looking to add a bit of stability to the rig, therefore i wanna get the axle a bit wider than stock...
i think minimum 62in max ~64....
id like to hear some suggestions on width, and why....
thanks fellas
~JOhn
 

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All depends on wheel and tire selection.... but I think the 78-84" outside of tire to tire is the "magic" range. Any narrower you get tippy on offcamber trails, any wider and EVERYONE has to stack their jeep on your tires. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
 

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I would Go As Wide as You'r Max Because You can Always Cut More Off Then Add Some !!!


I would Go with the 64 Thats What My 60 Front is Pretty close Too Ain't that bad !! Wish I had Not Cut it down Though !!


Oh But I Have 1 More Full Width 60 !! My bad hehehheheheh

Next Project Full Width!! And It's
A Flat Fender!!
 

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i run a 62" wide d60 front and 14bolt rear with 15x10" wheels with 3.5" backspacing, 38.5x14.5 sx's. i like the width. wide but not too wide. rim backspacing and tire width are determining factors. depending on tire width, rim width, and backspaceing you could actually end up narrower overall with a 64" wide axle than the 62". i say all this to say use all the info to determin what width you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks guys....
i think im gonna go with 62-63...
i need to have the front a tad (like 2in) wider dont i?
and i can always adjust my width with backspacing and even wheel spacers if needed.
i can always put a little more on, but cant take it off...
thanks, and keep em comin
~JOhn
 

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Is this D60 going up front? If so, a word of advise. A D60 front in an XJ will cause serious bodily injury. By that I mean that your unibody will not take the weight of that axle. It has been tried, people say it can be done, but end up dumping big bucks on serious mods to the frame that do nothing. The big problem is ripping out suspension mounts. D60, on the other hand, is not a problem.
To answer your question, go narrower in the rear. The turning radius is nice.

[ 09-26-2001: Message edited by: CaptainFleXJ151 ]
 

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Originally posted by Rock Taxi:
<STRONG>All depends on wheel and tire selection.... but I think the 78-84" outside of tire to tire is the "magic" range. Any narrower you get tippy on offcamber trails, any wider and EVERYONE has to stack their jeep on your tires. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Like this <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
<IMG width=500 height=355 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/m377.JPG">
I just went from 58 to 62 and it is MUCH more stable.
 

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how some pics to compare at least looks. i've got a pair of full sizes from an F250 and i can't decide if i want to go narrower or just stay 67". i look the look of that yellow. is just running waggy diffs?
-russ
 

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There is only one width... FULL WIDTH!!!!!




I can sidehill like a mountain goat, and flex like a madman. I measure 87" from outside tire to outside tire with 4" offset rims and 16" wide tires. I would not trade the width for anything.
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Dimitri
 

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Originally posted by Flatty:
<STRONG>I would not trade the width for anything.
</STRONG>
Other than to ride with me since you are too wide for BARRETT! <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
I have 64 up front and 62 in the rear. You only need to be the same width front and back or perhaps an inch wider is all not necessarily 2inches.
 

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So iis it better to have the front a little wider than the rear, I am having a rear end put under my TJ, I am going to keep the Dana 30 up front for now(I am gonna put in the warn hub conversion on it) which is supposed to add 3/4" to each side. I believe that should take it to 62" WMS.
What width should I do the rear?
Thanks
Chris
 

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Originally posted by 97sahara:
<STRONG>So iis it better to have the front a little wider than the rear, I am having a rear end put under my TJ, I am going to keep the Dana 30 up front for now(I am gonna put in the warn hub conversion on it) which is supposed to add 3/4" to each side. I believe that should take it to 62" WMS.
What width should I do the rear?
Thanks
Chris</STRONG>
Since they come from the factory the same width, I am sure if they are the same it's fine. Just don't get wider than the front, or it will track on the road.
 

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I wish someone would explain to me how the extra weight of a 60 will "tear the suspension mounting points". That is just total CRAP. The weight of the axle will not tear at anything. The stresses caused by a poorly designed suspension will do much more damage than raw weight. XJ suspension mounts are just as stout as CJ/YJ/TJ mounts. The only part of an XJ that will ever see the weight of the axle is the shock mount if you ever over extend the suspension and bottom the mount.

Think of it this way, if I were to go from springs that were 180 lbs/ in to springs that were 260 lb/in, would I be at risk of "ripping" my suspension mounts off? It's the same damn thing. Think it through man.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Andy....i feel what you are sayin man...i usually just tell ppl that ask what im doing to reinforce the susp mounts about my fram cradle design and so forth....
a heavy axle will act as a lever on the springs, just the same as a lighter axle....in order for the weight of the d60 to make a difference, it would have to be completely unweighted, ie, just dangling in the air...and how often does that happen?
i mean...i might think twice about 2.5 ton rockwells under there, but d60s? naw
think about it...you are only adding maybe 200lbs per axle MAX...
i dont know...just my opinion...i could be wrong though
~John
 

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The suspension mounts are plenty strong, however the thin material of the frame reails are not. This is where the suspension mounts will break. The weight has nothing to do with the flex, it's the added weight going through the steering and control arms of the vehicle. While looking at it, it doesnt seem like it could hurt that much, but that added 200 lbs really puts hell on the vehicle. If I am worng about this than I apologise. I am only speaking from what I know and 2 people I know who did the same things and had these problems. There's nothing like field testing to prove a point.
 

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But when is the weight of the axle a factor? Yah, heavy unsprung weight is horrible for handling and such, but it never does anything as far as stressing axle mounting points. Only if you were to somehow drop and hang the whole axle assembly repeatedly and harshly from the frame mounts would you see any extra stress. The only limiting factor in this unlikely scenario is the shock mount or limiting strap. Those might be damaged.It just doesn't make sense to me. I respect your field testing, but I would like to know more about the circumstances and suspension design of the rigs in question before I was sure that an extra 200 lbs of weight could destroy a unibody frame. They are stiffer and more resilient than a traditional ladder frame, though harder to work on competently.

Andy
 

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I am sure you are familiar with the late model Jeep coil sprung 5 link front suspension setup. If so, then you know that the control arms, esp. the lowers, run directly from the frame mount straight to the axle. All of the load from the front end is transmitted straight back through those locating arms. (This is part of the problem of bumpsteer with a larger lift and no arm drop brackets) The upper arms are less susceptable to this since they are angled down.
One more thing, 200 lbs is a lot, but if you are right, then it is not a big factor. However the added weight of larger tires and wheels, makes that 200 figure grow. So now we have the big axle and heavy tires in the mix. This will cause these problems I was talking about. Not adding 38" plus tires? Fine, use a D44 instead. Just a thought.
 
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