[Sully]

So these damned ball joint inserts are in so tight, they are ruining the snap-on ball-joint socket that I've got. It's starting to bend the little "teeth" on the end of the socket, so that now it just want to ride them like a ramp and pop right out.

I've been soaking this sumbitch in penetrating oil. So far, it hasn't done much good. Anyone got any better creative ideas for removing these fawkers?

 

[Scrambler Jimmy]

Heat the ear up good 'n hot before you make your next attempt at removing it. Even if you don't have a hot wrench, a propane bottle torch may get it hot enough to help.

 

[Broncoo]

is the knuckle off?

if not go buy a balljoint separator whack em off then screw the insert out the bottom

 

[Robert]

Are you trying to remove the insert while the balljoint is still in it?
If so, it would probably have too much preload to be easily removed.

If the knuckle is off, get it into a good vice, and use plenty of down force on the wrench while trying to turn it.
Don't worry about the socket, Snap On will warranty it :flipoff2:
I would be hesitant to expose the knuckle to a lot of heat like was previously posted. It is an option, but it would be a course of last resort.

 

[tsm1mt]

I just had to retighten the balljoints on one of my Scouts.

The insert didn't want to move, so I used the impact wrench and applied a lot of downforce on the socket and into the insert... then I *tightened* the insert, before backing it out.

 

[JeepinDoug]

The heat is ok as long as you don't get it too hot. O/A torches would be too hot, I use MAPP gas, it's hotter than propane. It works great for pre/post heating the cast for welding too.
I had one in a Dodge steering yoke that didn't have the compression slot in it, it had a captive spherical taper that wouldn't come loose for anything. I used a dremel tool to cut a slot deep enough to weaken the insert, then chipped it out. It cut the thread a tad but a 1"-13tpi bolt cleaned it up.