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Discussion Starter #1
NEUROC, UROC, and a few other sanctioning bodies are requiring a battery kill switch on all trucks with electric fuel pumps, located opposite to the engine. How the hell do you do this on a 4Runner that still has the rear glass installed? I don't wanna put it on the side of the body cause the way I drive, I'll shear it off and the truck will go dead in the middle of the course. Anyone done it? also, anyone have a wiring diagram? do I switch the positive or the negative???

sounds like a newbie querstion, but I've been searching for 2 days now as to the "proper" way to do it.
 

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Aren't you supposed to pull the glass anyways for these comps?

I don't know how deep a kill switch goes, but there is something like 2+ inches of clear space between the outer skin and the glass if you mount at the thickest point, isn't there?

Are you running without the top? Put a 90 degree piece of scrap along the inner paneling, near the rear, and mount it there. Someone can easily reach in and hit it, but it's safe from trail carnage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Pazuzu said:
Aren't you supposed to pull the glass anyways for these comps?

I don't know how deep a kill switch goes, but there is something like 2+ inches of clear space between the outer skin and the glass if you mount at the thickest point, isn't there?

Are you running without the top? Put a 90 degree piece of scrap along the inner paneling, near the rear, and mount it there. Someone can easily reach in and hit it, but it's safe from trail carnage.
The flaming river switch will work as the switch, but try pulling your battery cable off the truck wile its running and guess what happens, it still runs!!! What I'm looking for I guess is how to wire it up so that the switch will kill everything.

Also, I ran the idea of putting the switch on an angle iron bracket sitting just inside the truck, and they didn't say no, but I don't think they liked it bvery much.

Also, there is no rule that says you have to pull the glass out of the tailgate.
Anyone else?
 

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Foxfab said:


The flaming river switch will work as the switch, but try pulling your battery cable off the truck wile its running and guess what happens, it still runs!!! What I'm looking for I guess is how to wire it up so that the switch will kill everything.
Killing stuff is easy, put a kill switch in line with the fuel filter, it'll die in seconds. Or, put a switch in line with the power to the Circuit Opening Relay (behind passenger dash, right of glove box), it runs the fuel pump, injectors, coil, everything. Kill that, you basically kill the entire engine bay. Combine that with the battery kill, you shutdown everything immediately. Maybe use the battery switch, which is NC, and on the output terminal, splice a wire to a relay, run the fuel pump line through the load part of the relay, then as long as the battery kill switch is closed (normal conditions), the fuel pump relay is closed (allows power), but if the battery switch is triggered, you'll both kill the battery power, AND open the fuel pump line, killing it as well. One switch, two jobs.
 

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The proper way to wire a kill switch is to run the alt output directly to the battery. Then hook the kill switch between the battery/alt and the rest of the truck. This way when you shut off the kill switch the truck is completly shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wiring

Here's what I came up with. Comments? Will this work? Is there an easier way that I'm missing?
 

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That'll do it. As long as both the alternator an battery are on one side of the switch, and the EFI system and fuse block is on the other.

You can get one for $20 from waytek wire:


Go to www.waytekwire.com
Products
Switches
Automotive Battery
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have most of it done already, just making sure. I got the switch from boaters world and am using the Summit battery relocation kit.

 

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Looks liek it will work. What size cables are those? They look kinda small for being that long. Are you running a winch off the same battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
They're 2 gauge and I will be running a winch off of it. You think I need 0 gauge??? I'll be running a seperate feed for the winch.
 

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Foxfab said:
They're 2 gauge and I will be running a winch off of it. You think I need 0 gauge???
Hate to say it, but absolutely... A winch can draw in excess of 400 amps when loaded down... The whole winch location thing is the MAIN drawback to relocating the battery in an off-road vehicle... It's not a bad idea to double up on your ground leads too...

As far as the battery disconnects go... Foxfab has the right idea... Get one for a marine application... They're FAR more available in higher amperage applications... A lot of the automotive units are only rated for a continuous amperage of 150 amps with a 300 amp 5 second surge...
 

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crashinaz said:
Foxfab has the right idea... Get one for a marine application... They're FAR more available in higher amperage applications... A lot of the automotive units are only rated for a continuous amperage of 150 amps with a 300 amp 5 second surge...
I was assuming that he wasn't dumb enough to run the winch through a switch barely rated for a sterter (like what I posted).

I'd run the $20 kill switch I posted, and a set of welding-cable connectors on the positive cable for the winch, personally. A *lot* cheaper than a $100 500 amp kill switch and does the job just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No, I wasn't going to run the winch through the kill switch and I am now going to put the battery back in its stock location to simplify things. I just didnt want to have to run a pair of 2 gauge wires up to body and back, but it looks like I'm going to have to either way, so to simplify the winch wiring, back up front it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
That switch was $20, not $100.

FWIW, the whole kill switch rule in NEUROC is fawkin stoopid anyway. It only applies to trucks with electric fuel pumps and the switch must disconnect all power to the rest of the truck. What? mechanical fuel pump equipped trucks don't have electrical systems too? A simple ignition kill switch just isnt enough for the rules. I'm trying to deal with the rule so I don't get fawked in the arse when I show up and it isnt done right.

RightPedal said:
I was assuming that he wasn't dumb enough to run the winch through a switch barely rated for a sterter (like what I posted).

I'd run the $20 kill switch I posted, and a set of welding-cable connectors on the positive cable for the winch, personally. A *lot* cheaper than a $100 500 amp kill switch and does the job just fine.
 

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Well, running the winch trough the switch really isn't a bad idea... In the case of a stuck solenoid you simply cut the power instead of hunting for a wrench or cutters while your winch is stalled up against the fairlead. :D
 

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Foxfab said:
They're 2 gauge and I will be running a winch off of it. You think I need 0 gauge??? I'll be running a seperate feed for the winch.

I ran 2/0 for mine. I also have a bunch of 3/0 if you want to buy some cheap :D
 
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