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Discussion Starter #1
Im thinking of moving my battery to the rear of my explorer but im a electrical dumb ass and evidently my searching skills suck.

im trying to figure out a few things.

1. would the winch hot/grd lead need to be ran back to the battery also? or can i run it to a junction block? (i found a 2 post deal on painless wiring) but i have no idea if it can handle the draw from a winch.

2. i will need about 16'-20' of cable, what would the best gauge of cable to use?

thanks for any info
 

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Im thinking of moving my battery to the rear of my explorer but im a electrical dumb ass and evidently my searching skills suck.

im trying to figure out a few things.

1. would the winch hot/grd lead need to be ran back to the battery also? or can i run it to a junction block? (i found a 2 post deal on painless wiring) but i have no idea if it can handle the draw from a winch.

2. i will need about 16'-20' of cable, what would the best gauge of cable to use?

thanks for any info
1. I would rate my connectors for winch cabling at 500amps for safety sake.

2. As big as you can afford. Your factory cables are probably 2ga. You will need bigger than that, especially for the winch. I personally prefer 2/0 gauge.
 

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Figuring roughly 14' from rear battery to winch at 500amp loaded draw, your going to need at least a 2/0 cable. directly from the battery, unless you can find a junction block that can handle that much amperage and you would still need to 2/0 from the block to the battery.

Welding cable makes a good wire for sizes that large, it's flexible and readily available in sizes up to 4/0.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
what more information do you want? :confused:
apeters you did answer about the cable size and i guess by saying thats you would rate your connector's at 500 amps your kinda answering the rest. thanks for that

Apparently you didn't make the airplane noises like Mommy does when you tried to spoon feed him the info :)
tantjjim thanks so much for your help it means the world to me!!
 

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ALERT! THREADJACK.
I'm (also) in the middle of relocating my battery to the back and putting in a kill switch in the positive cable. You guys were helping earlier...sorry if more stupid questions but this stuff is to important for safety. ...at least its not a new thread. :D

Optima yellow top, 9500ti front winch, ATV rear winch for suck down 2 spd taurus fan, small spal trans cooler fan, kill switch in dash, alternator wire switched for engine kill.

-For shutting down engine with kill switch, will switching the alternator wire on a computer controlled tj risk frying components?

-With full frame TJ, can I run short ground cable direct to frame from battery with thick braided ground strap from engine to frame, or is it safest to run ground all the way back to engine block/frame point ground?

-Winch connections going to kill switch, it's unlikely + winch cable will reach kill switch, should I replace winch + with a longer 1/0 or 2/0 gauge welding cable direct from winch to switch? Or should I just connect to switched (+) power lug and (-) to frame?

-Kill switch, not sure of amp rating of current switch, so correct rated new one is needed. Is 1000 amps for 10 seconds enough, for winch, I don't realy understand how many amps it uses durring a hard pull vs stalling it out. I was considering having a separate winch switch using a continuous duty gulf cart type solenoid switch with low voltage on/off toggle switch next to main kill switch.
 

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the spec sheet for your winch should give you the amperage draw at a given load, always round up when picking components based on capacity.
 

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-For shutting down engine with kill switch, will switching the alternator wire on a computer controlled tj risk frying components?
My understanding is there is a small risk. I don't really know what from though. I've never had an issue. Pretty much all of the racers are set up this way.

-With full frame TJ, can I run short ground cable direct to frame from battery with thick braided ground strap from engine to frame, or is it safest to run ground all the way back to engine block/frame point ground?
I assume you mean for the winch? Best option is to run a 2/0 cable all the way to the winch as that will provide the least resistance thereby keeping the amp draw lower. With that said, tons of people just run a ground to the frame and call it good. Make sure that your ground from the frame to the battery is overkill.

-Winch connections going to kill switch, it's unlikely + winch cable will reach kill switch, should I replace winch + with a longer 1/0 or 2/0 gauge welding cable direct from winch to switch? Or should I just connect to switched (+) power lug and (-) to frame?
best option is to run it through a properly rated kill switch. I have seen winches short out, or solenoids get stuck under heavy loads. A kill switch to shut off the winch is a nice safety feature.
-Kill switch, not sure of amp rating of current switch, so correct rated new one is needed. Is 1000 amps for 10 seconds enough, for winch, I don't realy understand how many amps it uses durring a hard pull vs stalling it out. I was considering having a separate winch switch using a continuous duty gulf cart type solenoid switch with low voltage on/off toggle switch next to main kill switch.
That should be plenty. I usually size stuff for 500amps when dealing with winches.
 

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Thank You, apeters89

local welding supply guy sells to a lot of local wheelers, he always sells the 1/0, he thinks 2/0 cable is overkill unless its long run. He thinks if we were talking regular battery cable it may be necessary but with welding cable 1/0 gauge is more then enough.
I have no problem with overkill but I'm at stage I want it done easy but safe, that 2/0 stuff looks to be a bear to work with especially in tight areas like switch.
1/0 is $2.60 2/0 is 3.22 a foot. Do I really need that big cable with a Warn 9500, do I risk not getting full potential out of it or cable melting? Winch does have a overheat light.

Originally Posted by over's tj:
-With full frame TJ, can I run short ground cable direct to frame from battery with thick braided ground strap from engine to frame, or is it safest to run ground all the way back to engine block/frame point ground?
I assume you mean for the winch? Best option is to run a 2/0 cable all the way to the winch as that will provide the least resistance thereby keeping the amp draw lower. With that said, tons of people just run a ground to the frame and call it good. Make sure that your ground from the frame to the battery is overkill.
Decided to run dedicated ground cable from battery to front ground lug/stud with winch and engine grounds to same point.


On winch connection,
best option is to run it through a properly rated kill switch. I have seen winches short out, or solenoids get stuck under heavy loads. A kill switch to shut off the winch is a nice safety feature.
Yep, aware of runaway winch, I'd like to have only one switch to keep simply if possible.
So, not sure I inderstood. Is it correct to connect winch positive with a (+) lug/stud (under hood) fed with the cable from the switched side of kill, or is there better way? Also may make shorter thicker cables coming out of winch to match the rest.

Just need to find the correct rated switch online. Everything else I can source local.
 

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the alternator field is controlled by the TJ PCM.

Shut off the 12V and for that split second the PCM is going to go nuts trying to make the alternator make voltage.

Do I think it will cook a PCM? Probably not.
Does the possibility exist? yes
 

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the alternator field is controlled by the TJ PCM.

Shut off the 12V and for that split second the PCM is going to go nuts trying to make the alternator make voltage.

Do I think it will cook a PCM? Probably not.
Does the possibility exist? yes
Thanks for info,
If its enough of a urgent situation for someone to use kill switch while engine is running then its worth the risk. I would always use keyed ign switch for engine kill as long as I have my witts. I do like the habit of cutting main switch if away from jeep for more then few minutes though.

A while ago I fried a TPS when connecting the negative cable in a half ass sloppy way with ignition on (trying to keep the alarm siren from screaming)
 

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Also keep in mind.. connections cause resistance.. I like to keep them to a minimum when dealing with a winch..

that welding cable isn't bad to work with, it's fine strand.. which is also good for less resistance..
 

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this is funny shit! i start a thread 1 guy answers. someone hi-jacks my thread talking jeep shit. (when he already started his own) and now a bunch jeep people are talking jeep shit in my thread lol funny shit
bummer i was hoping for more info
... sorry, I really must of confused people folowing your detailed brand specific build thread.

Really:flipoff2:
Your thread was current and on same tech subject I'm researching, I would think the input after my hijack could help you and others.

...no. I did not start another thread on subject
 

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this is funny shit! i start a thread 1 guy answers. someone hi-jacks my thread talking jeep shit. (when he already started his own) and now a bunch jeep people are talking jeep shit in my thread lol funny shit
ever think that he got more responses because he asked specific questions about specific things?


Your general ass "what do I do" got you a general ass "you need to wire it" answer.

Don't suck so hard and you too can get help :flipoff2:
 

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I ordered a Bue Sea 9004e battery switch (Rated for 600A for 5 minutes)
e-Series On-Off Battery Switch - Blue Sea Systems

I found best price at Boat Parts | Seabound Supply nice quality switches also, found one for in cab winch In/Out for my 9500ti: Blue Sea 8290 Contura Switch DPDT (On)Off(On)

I'm looking at some American made welding cable on eBay, they have red & black while my local shops just have black, pricing is comparable.

Damn! All told. doing battery relocation safely with kill switch is more expensive then expected. I now have a big trans cooler/fan were battery once lived, better weight distribution too.

Thanks for the input.
 

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I'm with DD - keep the connections to a minimum. That will keep voltage higher to the winch motor, which will keep it running faster & cooler, which will make it pull LESS current (contrary to Ohms law ;)). I've never heard of "winch runaway", but I don't get stuck much, so my winch doesn't get used much. :D But some winch maintenance should minimize that risk.


Anyway...

Instead of trying to work around all these problems you're imagining; why not ask yourself why you're moving the battery to begin with? Is it really gonna help enough to offset all these problem$$$$ you're creating?

And about the kill switch frying the PCM - there are many ways to kill an engine, so the PCM doesn't have to get killed. Rig the switch to kill the fuel pump & ignition, and the engine will die even with the PCM still awake (NOT frying).
 
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