[angryblack]

After having two fram HP1s clog up and fail on me, leaving me short of one weekend of riding at the gulches during my vacation Im looking to improve my trucks oil system..

Right now as it sits its just a stock TBI454, canton romote oil filter adapter, twin 60" 1/2" dia hydrualic hoses with -8 ends, a remote transdapt dual filter head..Stock oil pump and stock pan..

Swapping to 5w30 mobil one oil, and two mobil oil filters got my pressure back but ive noticed after startup i get 40 psi at idle but giving the engine some gas it will drop down to 20psi and hang there..When it warms up the oil to normal operating temp then oil pressure at idle stays at 20 si and rises normally with rpm..Not sure what thats about but its notable

Id be happy with this but since im piecing together a mild BBC from some hardcore parts id like to improve my current engines oiling system now and swap it over later down the road when the 636 is done.Its still a ways off as i have to get the cash to buy pistons, gaskets and valvetrain for the long block and save for a good efi system like a used gen 6 or 7 dfi or steal the BS3 from my grudgematch car as well as the fuel system.

Ive been through this over and over in my head but id like to hear as to why not run a high pressure oil pump.Or high volume/high pressure pump? What id like to have is a decent windage tray in the oil pan and possibly some trap doors to help keep the pickup fed while on steep angles, enough volume that the oil will circulate through both filters, a cooler and the engine faster to pull more heat from the bearings yet have enough capacity to keep the system from running dry..

Right now im thinking a canton oil pan Canton Racing Truck Wet Sump Pans 16-330 - SummitRacing.com

With a pump and pickupSummit Racing Street & Strip® Oil Pump and Pickup Kits SES-3-90-08-007 - SummitRacing.com

Adding a canton accumulator to the system as well off an oil pressure switch. Im mostly doing rocks and hill climbs but i often get the truck and have had the truck off camber and noticed the loss in oil pressure while doing so with the stock system..The truck is super stable and sure footed even at 75* but a few times ive had to back to back out due to starving the pump..

So am i going way overkill here or will the larger pan high volume pump accumlulator be close as i can get to a dry sump

 

[Greg72]

I've never heard anything positive about Fram filters....

Plenty of negative though.



-G

 

[Grumpy_old_fart]

stay away from anything Fram.

its like a roll of toilet paper in a soda can.

Wix filters are the best option for an aftermarket replacement. They are heavy duty, hold together well, and if you get the racing filter, it will withstand 125 psi of oil pressure.
Wix P/N 51060r has the anti drain back valve.

 

[Grumpy_old_fart]

oh... finished reading....

high volume and just about any oil pump made today will have sintered gears. these are not forged... anything metal that goes through this pump will increase the chances that it will fail. and badly.

a gerotor pump will hold up better, provide more pressure, and will be adjustable. Moroso makes a gerotor pump, p/n 22167 that will do everything you ever need.
problem with it, its 485 bucks.
stay away from crossdrilled cranks when running a bbc over 6500 rpm. if it is straight shot oiling, thats one thing, but cross drilled cranks are not a good idea.

moroso oil pan p/n 21047 would help you out too... but thats another 465 bucks. or there is p/n 20370

check all of em out...

i guess it depends on how many times you want to put a new crank/rods into the motor...

and get rid of ANY filter bypass if you can.

 

[just4cuz]

Chevy Power Book says "any oil pressure greater than 55 PSI is sufficient for high performance use. In any case oil pressure should not be greater than 75 PSI"

Chevy has a Corvette BBC oil pan with a trap door baffle GM#14091356 to keep oil in the sump and a windage tray GM#3967854 also. The main studs(4) are GM#3902885. I have Gen 5 numbers available too.

Hopefully you did not run some debris through the engine when the filters disintegrated (if that's what happened). Sounds like the debris was after break-in so the only conclusion would be filter disintegration or missed crud in the block (which I doubt you would do after reading many of your posts).

2 heavy duty oil pumps are available from Chevy one with 1.1 in deep gears LS-6 and L88 and a high volume ZL1-LS7 GM#3969870. The Chevy high performance oil pump spring has a light green stripe and is GM#3876876.

All this should be sufficient for a BBC wet sump system to be reliable. Other than the Chevy stuff, Melling or TRW I have no experience with any other brand of parts for BBC.

I know a guy that builds boat engines though and can find out more about block prep if you want and get back to you. Basically though from our conversations you want as much oil to return to the pan as possible because the top of the engine holds a lot of oil especially when running a high volume pump.

Saw Grumpy piped in, good, other than Grich he is the only big block guy I believe.

 

[angryblack]

For now im leaving the TBI block alone as far as flowback mods..I really dont have any interest in digging deep into it..Its got 67K hard miles on it as an airport plow truck..

I dont think any junk went through the engine..I cut the frams open and the didnt show any signs of tearing..Just a collapsed filter element.I kow it was pretty cold that am but not sub zero..I tried a few times to let it run for 10 secs at a time but still no pressure..So i bypassed the housing with a -8 union then whamo..20 psi at idle..Got home washed out the adapter flushed the hoses and changed the oil and installed the mobil filters..I know about the wix filters but they dont sell them on the shelf up here and from cutting a bunch of filters open that day mobil won out over the K&N due to the lower price..Its basically the exact filter.

The shortblock i have already came from one of our Cadillac..It a bill mitchell 636 that was built by them..The car was rear ended so im just getting the block,Lunati crank and oliver rods..All i have is some bb2extras touched by hutter to go on and the rest i have to scrape together week by week...When we get the car stripped I will look the block over to see what was done for the drainback..

Ive run the chevy pumps before but never ran a moroso pump..Mostly milodon since ive been building engines.Not sure if i see the need for the 500 dollar pump..But i usually change my oil every ten rides along with the filter..Id like to think i can go longer than that with the synthetic oil..

The drag race baffles i dont see working in a rock crawler..Many LS guys have found this out and im taking heed on that..Its one of the reasons i looked at the pan i posted..

 

[r0nin89]

For now im leaving the TBI block alone as far as flowback mods..I really dont have any interest in digging deep into it..Its got 67K hard miles on it as an airport plow truck..

I dont think any junk went through the engine..I cut the frams open and the didnt show any signs of tearing..Just a collapsed filter element.I kow it was pretty cold that am but not sub zero..I tried a few times to let it run for 10 secs at a time but still no pressure..So i bypassed the housing with a -8 union then whamo..20 psi at idle..Got home washed out the adapter flushed the hoses and changed the oil and installed the mobil filters..I know about the wix filters but they dont sell them on the shelf up here and from cutting a bunch of filters open that day mobil won out over the K&N due to the lower price..Its basically the exact filter.

The shortblock i have already came from one of our Cadillac..It a bill mitchell 636 that was built by them..The car was rear ended so im just getting the block,Lunati crank and oliver rods..All i have is some bb2extras touched by hutter to go on and the rest i have to scrape together week by week...When we get the car stripped I will look the block over to see what was done for the drainback..

Ive run the chevy pumps before but never ran a moroso pump..Mostly milodon since ive been building engines.Not sure if i see the need for the 500 dollar pump..But i usually change my oil every ten rides along with the filter..Id like to think i can go longer than that with the synthetic oil..

The drag race baffles i dont see working in a rock crawler..Many LS guys have found this out and im taking heed on that..Its one of the reasons i looked at the pan i posted..

So you know carquest and a lot of napa brand filters are rebranded WIX filters.

Dont run a high pressure pump unless you build your motor loose on purpose.

 

[Grumpy_old_fart]

for what it is worth, i ran an odd sort of combo on my 402 for a long time with no oiling issues... and its stock stuff for the most part...

9 quart truck pan
Moroso high volume/high pressure oil pump.
crank scraper
full length screen style windage tray.

the truck pan is HUGE and will hold plenty of oil.

I dont like the idea of starving the engine for oil, either. I just dont think the truck pan will fit in a car chassis well... lol.

 

[Grumpy_old_fart]

So you know carquest and a lot of napa brand filters are rebranded WIX filters.

Dont run a high pressure pump unless you build your motor loose on purpose.

^this...
use a good filter... unless you like replacing bearings.
i like high pressure pumps, because i build my motors a bit on the loose side and run heavy weight oils. I have had 125 psi on startup before, and the filter held.... never hurt a bearing, had the motor and beat it like a rented mule carrying an overweight elephant for 13 years.