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Discussion Starter #1
Selling all my AMC power train stuff and building a BBC/T400
It has a warmed over 401/TF727/NP229 combo


I have a few questions.

First has it been done before?

I am not sure what my final combo might be.

Someone offered an SM365/NP205 combo for $400
But I'm unsure of how much it will take to fab up the clutch linkages.

Can the T400 mate to a NP205?
I can also swap the tail shaft with a Jeep T400 to retain my NP229 but I'm afraid it will crumble behind the BBC.

The 454 was pulled from a wrecked truck. Has a steel crank and all accessories. Will be tearing down, re-ringing, new seals and bearings, cam (thinking 262H), Edelbrock performer or Performer RPM, Holley Truck Avenger, Mallory points dizzy, big coil, large oval ports and flat tops.

I have never taken a valve cover off of a Chevy so I am clueless about these motors. Especially being only 25.

I plan on putting a Procharger on once I'm confident in the driveline behind it.
T400 will be built to handle 800-ft lbs and 650 HP

Has AMC 20 rear and Dana 44 front.

I found some 8-lug axles with 4.10's on an 80's model fire/brush truck.
Has Dana 60 front? Not sure.

It will be a daily driver so I don't want a ton of boost or compression. Just something that will smoke 35" tires at a 50mph roll :)
It will pull our 30' travel box on occasion.
Will take it to Gilmer Texas on occasion to wheel on some trails.

How do I build a Chevy for 500-Ft lbs to start testing things out and keep me happy until I put the blower on?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Should I move this to hardcore?

EDIT: I knew I had posted in hardcore and this was moved here. What the heck. And no replies? Come on guys.
 

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Metalcloak
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Selling all my AMC power train stuff and building a BBC/T400
It has a warmed over 401/TF727/NP229 combo


I have a few questions.

First has it been done before? sure

I am not sure what my final combo might be.

Someone offered an SM365/NP205 combo for $400
But I'm unsure of how much it will take to fab up the clutch linkages.

Can the T400 mate to a NP205? They came that way
I can also swap the tail shaft with a Jeep T400 to retain my NP229 but I'm afraid it will crumble behind the BBC.

The 454 was pulled from a wrecked truck. Has a steel crank and all accessories. Will be tearing down, re-ringing, new seals and bearings, cam (thinking 262H), Edelbrock performer or Performer RPM, Holley Truck Avenger, Mallory points dizzy, big coil, large oval ports and flat tops.

I have never taken a valve cover off of a Chevy so I am clueless about these motors. Especially being only 25.

I plan on putting a Procharger on once I'm confident in the driveline behind it.
T400 will be built to handle 800-ft lbs and 650 HP

Has AMC 20 rear and Dana 44 front.

I found some 8-lug axles with 4.10's on an 80's model fire/brush truck.
Has Dana 60 front? Not sure.

It will be a daily driver so I don't want a ton of boost or compression. Just something that will smoke 35" tires at a 50mph roll :)
It will pull our 30' travel box on occasion.
Will take it to Gilmer Texas on occasion to wheel on some trails.

How do I build a Chevy for 500-Ft lbs to start testing things out and keep me happy until I put the blower on?
I would use the TH400 and NP205 out of a Gm so that it all bolts together without any adapters. A 454 will build good power with only a little work. Remember it is a truck, not a hotrod, the power curves that you want are not the same. I have been down that road.

BTW: A good small block will break 36" tires loose at 60mph if you do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I got a few replies telling me to swap a Cummins in the Towing rig section. I would, but I dont want to. And IFSJA hasnt allowed new users to register in a LONG time. I could get a crate LS1 to put in it. But I dont want it.

I want the 454 with a blower.
I know it wont ever be a real street rod.
But there will be a lot of power on tap and the Wag has a stock curb weight of 4,500 lbs. I know the BBC, axles, and tires are heavier but I am looking for bullet proof and fun. And I am the paranoid kind that doesnt want a computer on it. Even MSD. I'll run methanol injection at high boost or something.

I was thinking Comp X4 254H X4 262H or cam for now with an Edelbrock RPM, Holley TA, Long tube Headers (if I can find some that clear), Mallory dizzy with a hot coil.

Any feedback relating to my build will be appreciated.

The front axle on the fire truck is a Dana 60. I dont know what the rear is but I assume its stout too. I might just take the T-case out of it so the drop is on the correct side.
 

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Metalcloak
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You are talking about using this to tow with. Remember that.

What RPM range is the can designed for, You want idle to 5500 not 2500-7500.

The long tubes are fine if they fit. I like Try-Y's.

The intake and carb are fine for N/A but will not work well for boost.

I like MSD ignition. I won't run points anymore. HEI might be a better option.

The blower is more effort then its worth if you do not want EFI.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You are talking about using this to tow with. Remember that.

What RPM range is the can designed for, You want idle to 5500 not 2500-7500.

The long tubes are fine if they fit. I like Try-Y's.

The intake and carb are fine for N/A but will not work well for boost.

I like MSD ignition. I won't run points anymore. HEI might be a better option.

The blower is more effort then its worth if you do not want EFI.
Those cams are very mild. operating ranges are supposed to be "RV" type lower RPM cams.

11-231-3 - Xtreme 4 x 4

11-231-3 - Xtreme 4 x 4

If HEI is good for an EMP I'll run it.

I have heard "blow through" carbs are built for the blower systems.
Running a blower requires a large feed and return system. I have heard things can lean at high RPM because boost makes it hard to get fuel. But you just compensate with higher fuel pressure. Like if I run ten pounds of boost run 10 more PSI and either control the advance or inject methanol when it reaches a certain amount of boost. I am still researching this though.

I'll be taking lots of pictures of the swap and updating as things progress. :eek:
 

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Metalcloak
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I would go 9.5:1 and stay N/A. If you boost it your going to want 8:1 and that sucks without the blower. Blow through carbs don't work off road well.

If you are worried about an EMP remember that you will have to push start it..... Manual tranny.


I run the equivalent to this in my 350 with 9.5:1 and a Performer intake. Make sure you run the correct convertor and the motor comes on nice and clean.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=400&sb=2
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I would go 9.5:1 and stay N/A. If you boost it your going to want 8:1 and that sucks without the blower. Blow through carbs don't work off road well. Well that is a deal breaker. If I need to head to the hills I need it to run right. I have a 670 Holley TA But I guess I can go to a 770 Holley TA or a quadrajet. Also is it safe to run poor grade fuel at 9.5:1?

If you are worried about an EMP remember that you will have to push start it..... Manual tranny. Can you explain? Because a T400 is completely "manual" no computer needed to operate. And batteries are unaffected. Only computerized systems get wiped out. Movies are not all that accurate.


I run the equivalent to this in my 350 with 9.5:1 and a Performer intake. Make sure you run the correct convertor and the motor comes on nice and clean.So I would need a small stall converter? It says it will work with stock convertor?

11-235-3 - Xtreme 4 x 4
Thank you for your input. I like asking lots of questions for clarity.
 

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Metalcloak
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OK, If you are worried about running crap fuel you need to stay 8.5:1 and no boost. Stick with a stock motor and deal with the lack of big power.

9.5:1 will need 91 oct. and will build good power without a lot of issues. The 670TA has a lot better reviews then the 770TA.

The cam I posted likes a 2200 stall. Not that aggressive but makes the motor come on faster. I have run it with a stock convertor and it wont spin tires out of the hole but will break 36's loose on the freeway. The stall convertor helps out a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well, i see this thread has gone full retard.

6mpg, epm, complete lack of any bbc experiance, dd, towing, blower, any other noob wet dream ideas you want to throw in while you are at it?
If I can find some platinum muffler bearings and a flux capacitor that doesn't cost an arm and a leg I'll be one happy newb. You know, I wonder how people started NASCAR, the NHRA, and ever made gobs of torque before fuel injection. Maybe they all had to run 200 octane fairy piss.

OK, If you are worried about running crap fuel you need to stay 8.5:1 and no boost. Stick with a stock motor and deal with the lack of big power. Can aluminum heads allow me to run 9.5:1 on regular grade?

9.5:1 will need 91 oct. and will build good power without a lot of issues. The 670TA has a lot better reviews then the 770TA.

The cam I posted likes a 2200 stall. Not that aggressive but makes the motor come on faster. I have run it with a stock convertor and it wont spin tires out of the hole but will break 36's loose on the freeway. The stall convertor helps out a lot.
Would that stall make things a little harder to tow with? High tranny temps and what not?
 

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Metalcloak
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If I can find some platinum muffler bearings and a flux capacitor that doesn't cost an arm and a leg I'll be one happy newb. You know, I wonder how people started NASCAR, the NHRA, and ever made gobs of torque before fuel injection. Maybe they all had to run 200 octane fairy piss.

Would that stall make things a little harder to tow with? High tranny temps and what not?

No, I had not issues towing and the convertor was tight not loose like in a drag car.

I don't think that aluminum heads will make the 9.5:1 be happy on 87oct. You will have to back the timing down. I can run 87 in mine if I only run 6deg at idle. On 91 I run around 10-14deg depending on if it is summer or winter blend fuel.
 

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Keep the 401,
Add:
Edelbrock heads and intake,
HEI or MSD with a proper curve,
Holley 770 Street Avenger or Truck Avenger
Pistons that deliver 9.5:1 with aformentioned heads
Mild-medium ROLLER cam and lifters
Roller rockers and good pushrods

Rebuild trans with a decent shift kit and buy a 2000-2200 rpm converter.

Spend the dollars to have the assembly balanced, and spend the time to tune the carb and ignition.

Enjoy 400hp and 500ft/lbs all day, every day and melt your tires to your hearts content.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
No, I had not issues towing and the convertor was tight not loose like in a drag car.

I don't think that aluminum heads will make the 9.5:1 be happy on 87oct. You will have to back the timing down. I can run 87 in mine if I only run 6deg at idle. On 91 I run around 10-14deg depending on if it is summer or winter blend fuel.
Thank you for your input.

Keep the 401,
Add:
Edelbrock heads and intake,
HEI or MSD with a proper curve,
Holley 770 Street Avenger or Truck Avenger
Pistons that deliver 9.5:1 with aformentioned heads
Mild-medium ROLLER cam and lifters
Roller rockers and good pushrods

Rebuild trans with a decent shift kit and buy a 2000-2200 rpm converter.

Spend the dollars to have the assembly balanced, and spend the time to tune the carb and ignition.

Enjoy 400hp and 500ft/lbs all day, every day and melt your tires to your hearts content.
My 401 has the current built with only 1,000 miles on the total rebuild.
9.5:1 pistons
502 heads
MSD Pro Billet ready to run dizzy
MSD wires
Edelbrock Performer intake
670cfm Holley TA
Crower 276HDP cam
Going full roller will cost me around $1,500
Edelbrocks are around $1,500 a pair they would need porting work (more $$$) to flow right (steel AMC heads flow better)
The Milidon pan would be another $400 if I wanted to run over 5,000 RPM to make that kind of power.
The Chevy swap would cost less than that.
So it may make sense to you guys to leave it. But I have my pick of any type of BBC pistons, Heads, and other odds and ends.
A relative is giving me whatever I want to swap it over. He used to build tractor pull trucks and has over 45 years experience building hot engines especially Chevy.
 

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If you want a true, shit hits the fan bug-out machine, I'd think you'd want a stock engine with a carb and points (carry spares) and a manual trans. When your battery won't crank your blown big block, the first dude you run across isn't gonna give you right kind of "jump". You need to be able to push start your shit. If you really want to be real and do all of the shit you want to do, use a mechanical diesel with a manual trans. You don't even need a battery to run that.
Travis..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you want a true, shit hits the fan bug-out machine, I'd think you'd want a stock engine with a carb and points (carry spares) and a manual trans. When your battery won't crank your blown big block, the first dude you run across isn't gonna give you right kind of "jump". You need to be able to push start your shit. If you really want to be real and do all of the shit you want to do, use a mechanical diesel with a manual trans. You don't even need a battery to run that.
Travis..
If an EMP is close enough to wipe out a battery (which is impossible to my knowledge) a car not starting would be the least of your worries... Well you wouldnt be able to worry. You'd be dead already.

As I stated above, it only wipes computer circuits out. And they have to be energized when it happens. My JVC head unit would be caput but I am willing to bet my life my unaffected battery will turn my engine over just fine :rolleyes:
 

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I didn't really reference the EMP, just that if you kill your battery you are fukt.
Travis..
 
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