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It is my understanding that for the tube to not to be structully damaged the radius should not be tighter than three times the tube diameter. 1.75 should be no more than 5.25 radius. The 3.5 inch radius dies are standerd for handrail. Which dont need to be super strong.
 

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From the picture, it looks like the tube is not flowing through the die--almost like it is being pulled too much and tearing from the tensile forces being generated by the smaller radius die.

Just curious, but would this tube still tear if it was bent with another style of bender (with same radius)? A hydraulic exhaust tubing bender comes to mind for testing purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
lew said:
It is my understanding that for the tube to not to be structully damaged the radius should not be tighter than three times the tube diameter. 1.75 should be no more than 5.25 radius. The 3.5 inch radius dies are standerd for handrail. Which dont need to be super strong.
Ah now this is what I am looking for. Where did you get this info?

We ran it without the mandrel and it didn't break but it flattened out real bad.
 

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do you just have this mandrel bender for your own personal use?

also ive seen that a few of you guys run a bender at work. What line of work are you in? is it a race shop or are there ordinary welding/fab shops that have benders?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
If I only annealed the bend area wouldn't the bending process rework harden it? Probably not as good as new but better than CRW
 

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That is what we go buy at the steel shops that I have worked at. It may be bull shit but It makes since to me, to much strech on the outside of the tube.
 
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