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Irok radial, I have them and like them better than any of the others on you list. I love deep snow wheeling and I haven't seen or used better.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I'm not convinced in the least by the nitto's. They are the "in" tire right now because Nitto is giving a lot of tires away (marketing). They are a sister company to toyo and toyos are some of the worst tires that I've seen in the snow.

I run toyos on my tow rig and I want nothing to do with a tire that can go 50k miles on a 7000lb truck, offroad.
Didn't think of it that way, definitely makes sense. Like you, I wish I could see a 38" or 40" Yokohama and feel how soft the rubber is. I or anybody else can't go wrong with iroks, I'd just really like to run something else and be different I guess.
 

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Didn't think of it that way, definitely makes sense. Like you, I wish I could see a 38" or 40" Yokohama and feel how soft the rubber is. I or anybody else can't go wrong with iroks, I'd just really like to run something else and be different I guess.
I want to feel the compound, the sidewall and just get an in person impression of the tire. I don't want to run two sets of tires, so I need some durability for summer rocks.
 

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A guy up here ran the 40" Yokohama's when they first came out. They were on a 1 ton yj. The tires work really well, but the tread tends to get packed up with wet snow.

Yokohama's are good snow tires, but Iroks are better.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I want to feel the compound, the sidewall and just get an in person impression of the tire. I don't want to run two sets of tires, so I need some durability for summer rocks.
I've pretty much given up on only running one set of tires. I keep a set strictly for snow and then have a beater set for dry summer use.. 35s in the summer and probably 40" yokohamas or iroks in the winter.

A buddy just bought the new pro comp xmtII's in a 40" so I'm excited to see how those do this winter. I've heard they're a soft tire but that's kinda hard to believe with a 50K mile warranty
 

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The nittos we are talking about are the mud grappler (look like a gay spikey bogger of sorts) , not the trail grappler. I know the trail grapples and toyo Mt are supposedly the "same" tire. Not sure if the mud grapplers have anything in common with the toyo Mt.



A guy up here ran the 40" Yokohama's when they first came out. They were on a 1 ton yj. The tires work really well, but the tread tends to get packed up with wet snow.

Yokohama's are good snow tires, but Iroks are better.
That's kinda what I was figuring.
 

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I think the carcasses are the same or similar. I also ran a nitto_______ grappler on my first dodge. More like the toyo AT, also lasted close to 50k.
 

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I have found that you can break in a stiff tire running them at crazy low psi at some speed. Me and one other guy would have to air down to 1 psi at first but after running between drifts in late spring even on blacktop once they now look flat at 4 to 5 psi. One set are radials and others that I run are bias. We are both running beadlocks though so be careful running with low psi at speeds.
 

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From only the selection of tires on this list I made, what is your guys opinion?
Out of your list:

First choice would be the 40" MT/R
40" Yokohama MT, maybe, it's light weight, and cheap enough, but no real world experience.
40" Toyo MT, hell no, stiff sidewalls, hard rubber
39.5" radial Irok, it's hard to beat, but the sidewalls are nothing special

If you are considering a 38" tire, why not the MTR/K in the 38x14.50R17? I ran some 37" Irok radials, they worked very well in stock form. After the sidewalls self destructed, I switched to 37" MTR/K, and after siping them, I would say they are dead even in performance to the Irok radial, uncut or siped. I've moved on to 38" MTR/K last winter, but the lack of snow didn't let me do much snow wheeling. A buddy that I do a lot of snow wheeling with runs the 38" MTR/K and I have been impressed so far.

As for conditions, most snow wheeling that I do is in the Blue Mountains of Eastern WA, fairly wet, but it does vary quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have found that you can break in a stiff tire running them at crazy low psi at some speed. Me and one other guy would have to air down to 1 psi at first but after running between drifts in late spring even on blacktop once they now look flat at 4 to 5 psi. One set are radials and others that I run are bias. We are both running beadlocks though so be careful running with low psi at speeds.
I plan on airing down (whatever new tires I purchase) until they bulge then driving up and down the road until they become warm. I have Hearst this works great for breaking snow tires in. Like you said, gotta be careful not to air them down too low or get them too warm cause you'll ruin the tire(s).

Out of your list:

First choice would be the 40" MT/R
40" Yokohama MT, maybe, it's light weight, and cheap enough, but no real world experience.
40" Toyo MT, hell no, stiff sidewalls, hard rubber
39.5" radial Irok, it's hard to beat, but the sidewalls are nothing special

If you are considering a 38" tire, why not the MTR/K in the 38x14.50R17? I ran some 37" Irok radials, they worked very well in stock form. After the sidewalls self destructed, I switched to 37" MTR/K, and after siping them, I would say they are dead even in performance to the Irok radial, uncut or siped. I've moved on to 38" MTR/K last winter, but the lack of snow didn't let me do much snow wheeling. A buddy that I do a lot of snow wheeling with runs the 38" MTR/K and I have been impressed so far.

As for conditions, most snow wheeling that I do is in the Blue Mountains of Eastern WA, fairly wet, but it does vary quite a bit.
I really like the 40" mtrk's but damn they are expensive! I don't have that kind of budget yet lol. The 38" mtrk's are expensive too and they're D load range - I'd rather have a C load range tire for my lighter jeep. A few guys run the 37x12.5R15 irok radials over here in the Yakima area but prefer the 36x13.5R15 iroks over the 37s.

I just picked up a set of super cheap 39.5 radial iroks with 60% tread (all street miles) that I'm going to groove the heck out of and try this winter. Quite a few guys around here have said they prefer a low tread tire (so it doesn't dig) with lots of biting edges. Makes me almost want to try a set of KO2s haha

I plan on making a few trips to the blues this winter if we get some good snow. We'll have to get together
 

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How do the BFG KM2's do in the snow? I have been running the old school MTR's in a 37x12.5x15 and was very happy with then. They finally wore out and I replaced them with a set of the KM2's in a 38x14.5x17 and am hoping I'm not going to be disappointed with them in the snow, if we get any.
 

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How do the BFG KM2's do in the snow? I have been running the old school MTR's in a 37x12.5x15 and was very happy with then. They finally wore out and I replaced them with a set of the KM2's in a 38x14.5x17 and am hoping I'm not going to be disappointed with them in the snow, if we get any.
I ran a set of 37's on my fzj80 (5000 lbs+) I felt that they worked well in the snow, but not on ice. You will need to watch your air pressures! I got a little careless with mine and ran one almost flat (under 2psi) for about 1.5 miles before I caught it. I aired it back up and carried on. After that trip I developed a wobble. I thought it was my steel allied beadlocks, so I bought new TG creeper locks. When I dismounted the tire, two handfuls of rubber came out from inside. In 1.5 miles the tire had rubbed to the cords from the inside. I bought a new tire at almost $500 and used the damaged one my spare :( I only mention this because after 15 years of snow wheeling, running flat happens and I have never had another tire self destruct like that.
 

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I ran a set of 37's on my fzj80 (5000 lbs+) I felt that they worked well in the snow, but not on ice. You will need to watch your air pressures! I got a little careless with mine and ran one almost flat (under 2psi) for about 1.5 miles before I caught it. I aired it back up and carried on. After that trip I developed a wobble. I thought it was my steel allied beadlocks, so I bought new TG creeper locks. When I dismounted the tire, two handfuls of rubber came out from inside. In 1.5 miles the tire had rubbed to the cords from the inside. I bought a new tire at almost $500 and used the damaged one my spare :( I only mention this because after 15 years of snow wheeling, running flat happens and I have never had another tire self destruct like that.
The other bummer with those tires, is they are basically a 35. I wish blue label krawlers were more available. :(
 

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The other bummer with those tires, is they are basically a 35. I wish blue label krawlers were more available. :(
Yes, the 38's are better, but more like a 37. A lot of tires don't measure out (not news to you) Iirc, the 36" irok radial is taller than the 37" flavor.
 

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Yes, the 38's are better, but more like a 37. A lot of tires don't measure out (not news to you) Iirc, the 36" irok radial is taller than the 37" flavor.
Ya, I know interco has always been bad. I remember having a set of 44 tsl's, 42 tsl's and 39 red labels, all well worn at the same house. They were all within an inch of each other.

However, for a "modern" radial tire that costs $500, the 37 km2s are a joke. A lot of people say they measure 35.5" I swear I saw a pic of a 35 mtr/k Vs a 37 km2 and the km2 was barely taller.

That being said, I do like km2s, I think they are still carrying the "weak side wall" stigma from the original bfg muds. I realize they are not the strongest out there, but I would bet they compare just fine to similar tires.

After seeing how chunked my Kevlars are from just one summer of wheelin, I am wondering if the km2s would be holding up better with their more simple thread pattern.
 

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I run the BFG KM2s on my Explorer. the siping that they gave the new BFGs are leaps and bounds over the original BFG MT's. They do pretty well on the street (mileage), but can get noisy (nothing like my BOGGERs though). Like has been said snow/rocks/mud they do very well, ice not so much (I will still swear by the AT's on slick roads/ice)
 

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I took a chance and bought 6ply 40" Toyo MT's. I know they have hard rubber but I'm grooving and siping them hoping they will work out. I drive to and from the trail so I wanted something that would last decent. I will drive around town at low pressure to break them in a little.

What does everyone think? This is grooved and then I'll sipe them all the way across.
 
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