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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK here's the deal. My wife says its cool to get a wheelin' rig next year when we have some $$ coming in. It will be MY daily driver (around town, under 100miles/week) and she'll get my pickup.

Now my dilemma is what rig to choose? I've always loved Land Cruisers, have ridden in many FJ40's, and owned an FJ55. I also like my 3rd gen pickup, despite its IFS. Plus, I've always had a thing for Samurais.

The problem is that whatever buildup I do, it has to be ALL BOLT ON PARTS that can be installed in a weekend, preferably in a carport.

I know that aftermarket support for FJ55's is scarce, FJ40's are pretty good tho. The availability of bolt on parts for samurais(suspension, x-over steering, etc) seems impressive. I also know there's lots of potential in Toy pickups (1st gen).

SO, with a budget of under $2k (preferably $1500) and a buildup budget of about $1500 what would my best bet be? I want to build a mild to extreme rig.

I'm loyal to Toyota but Sammy's are pretty neat too!

I also like rigs that feel light on the trail. My '55 felt very heavy (didn't help that I had no power brakes/steering). My pickup is very nice on the trail, albeit a bit stiff because of the cranked torsion bars <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

WHAT SAY THE FORUM?
 

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Broke Bastard
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I can guarantee that what ever you get, you will dump way more into it that $1500.

I would get a Sami. Do a spring over and get 32" tires and a lockright for the rear. That will get you going and you can build it up when money allows.

Or you can get a '79 - '85 Toyota and bob the bed, Lockright for the rear, 33" tires and wheel that.

It comes down to what YOU want.
Those are my 2 choices.
 

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Originally posted by Toy Benny:
<STRONG>I can guarantee that what ever you get, you will dump way more into it that $1500.
</STRONG>
Truer words were never spoken. I got $3½k into my Willys and it's not even out of the garage.
 

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but with a sami yo have to weld.. normally.. which I why I say a 79-85 (preferabally an 85) toy. much easier to just bolt stuff on, even the diffs (wish I could do that on my dodge, but then, you can do the same with a sami. It just seems to me that there is alot more welding to a sami, while with a toy, normally the only welding that is done is the chevy spring mounts, and the cage.. just my $0.02
 

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I just picked up a 91 xlt explorer for $1,500 and it is super clean but needs new engine. Found a 60k4.0 v6 for $650 and I have an eb 44/9 and 36tsl's. I'm figuring $500 in brake line-drive shaft and bracket mods and that will put me in around $2750. Not to bad but lets wait till done to add up real cost.

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">
 

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I would say go for a TOY. You can get them cheap and build them pretty cheap too. I am not quoting anyone on this one, but I think DRM and TinBender I believe a while back were saying they could build a Toy for under $2000.....like I said I am not quoting anyone, but someone on here was saying something to that effect. Maybe one of them will post on this thread.......maybe not?
 

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if you're looking for a truck that has never been 'wheeled ( bagged on ) then get a Sami......... it's much more likely that it was lady driven, needs a clutch and sparkplugs and they're dumping it 'cause it's "unreliable"...... <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
a great number of toyota's have lived very hard lives..... unless you can score the elusive " grandpa's hunting truck " <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
things to watch for on a samurai are the #3 cylinder ( eggs out and causes blow by...) and a bent rear housing which makes the rear wheel bearings ( 6207 2rs1) to wear out prematurely....also the fenders under the flares are not painted and they rust out.....
on toyota's the early 5 speeds had lousy input gear bearings that gave it up too early, the frames rust from the inside out ( mostly 'cause they get packed with mud and never get cleaned out...) check just in front of the forward rear spring mounts and behind the gas tank on the passenger side for cracks...
 

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FU2
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Toy.

Weld the rear..................$0 (welding)
Waggy's front.................$250
Lock right front..............$250 (set up)
Dual case.....................$450
Chevy's rear..................$100 (welding)
Late model P/S box.............$50 (welding)
Fab a right side steering arm...$0
Fab a drag link w/stock balls..$20 (welding)
Half doors......................$0 (welding)
Bed bob.........................$0 (welding)
BEER for guy welding/Fab'n....$100
...................Sub total $1220
33"-35"Tires/Wheels...........$???

84:1, 33-35's, 1000RTI, STRONG minus birfs.

It would be a DAMN good start, and get you more places than ANY $1500 Sammy. The only thing is to find someone who knows how to weld.... If you don't know someone, join a club!

<IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">
 

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Solid axle anything is going to be cheaper to lift and modify.
If you want some room look at K5's and short bed Chevy's. Anything you could ever want is bolt on. You want 1 ton gear go rape a K30 and it will bolt on to a K5. Repair parts are also dirt cheap.
Can't get any cheaper lifts than for a Chevy. You can get a K5 to Ramp 900's on a 25 deg ramp for around $600 total.
Thats $200 for 4 inch EZ ride front springs.
$50 F250 Shock towers for the front.
$100 for raised Steering arm.
$100 for Steering brace from www.offroaddesign.com
and Shocks of your choice.
The down side is the width....your going to take body damage in them. Your also going to end up hauling all your jeep buddies soft doors, coolers and camping gear <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
If you want small then go with a early 80's Toy truck. They are just as easy to lift but a little more expensive if you get a early 80's solid axle.
Like the other guy said, Either drop a EFI into the solid axle version or swap a solid axle under a newer model. They are tough little trucks. I have a bud with one and it goes like hell on the trail.
I Need the seats for my 2 kids and Toys from those years just don't have enough room for me. I cant get a comfortable seating posisiton in the trucks, Even the 4 runner. The seat just wont fit me right. I'm a fairly big guy. May not be a problem for you if your smaller guy. I feel like a monkey with my knees up next to the steering column.
I own one Toyota (supra and for some reason they can make the cars with seats that slide back enough for me but not the trucks) and I like the way they are built but the price of repair parts really chaps my ass. Stuff like water pumps, Alternators is usualy double the price of the Chevy.
Then there is always JjjJJjj.... Uhh Jeeee....Uhhh JJjjjeeee. You know that thing that the willis became. Tons of gear for them but nowhere to store your gear if you need the back seat. XJ's I like and have some room and can be made to work well but the lifts can set you back. Weak Tranny's and cases in some years and stay the heck away from the 2.8 motor. Get one with a FI 4.0 for sure. And try to find one with a D44 rear or expect to replace the D35.
 

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i bought my early bronco for $1500. insert a quality lift from any of the eb vendors, slap on a q-jet carb and your ready to tackle the tough stuff... you can get 4.whatever t-case gears for less than 1k for the dana 20 and spools for the 9 inch are cheap and plentifull...

whatever you do the roll cage, lockers, and tires will eat up your budget quick of you are without the fab gene..

peace

Jw

[ 09-22-2001: Message edited by: Rebel ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for everyones suggestions and insight, I really appreciate it <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Looks like I may go for the sammy since I barely fit in the toy mini's w/o extra cab, and the sammi's I actually fit in pretty good. Plus, I've never owned a SWB vehicle so it should be fun. That and I can't relaly tell the difference mod-wise. Seems like either one has its drawbacks.

I'm thinking get a sammy, get it SOA'd either by calmini's bolt-on kit or pay someone to do it, then go 31's and t-case gears, and weld the rearend and forget about it. I'd have a shop do the work, I know a shop that'll SOA a sammy for $600. Add a x-over steering setup from calmini, $250 I guess. Then a cheap set of 31" tires and wheels and I'd be set for quite a while, maybe re-gear the t-case.
 

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Scout, Scout Scout, Scout

Room for the kids, cheap, 300k easy from the IH motors, D44 front and rear, etc. Come over to the dark side. Easy to lift, 4" and a trim will fit 33's, hard top is removable.

Did I say Scout

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Tin Bender:
<STRONG>Toy.


Late model P/S box.............$50 (welding)


<IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Ok where are the ifs box's for $50, I'll take sum <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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How about a Sammi with Toy drive-train?
Cheap spring-over to Toy diffs.
Lots of 22R's kicking around.
 

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Get you a sami and a Toy parts truck. I picked up my 79 for $500.
 
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