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'82 Scrambler, '14 Rzr
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the deal....

I had the long side on my Dodge 60 front narrowed. The guy who did it said he took about 3.5" out - as is evident by looking at the pieces of metal removed.

However, I went to slide the stock shaft back in, and it only sticks out approx. 3" from where it should sit at rest in the housing.

Granted - I swapped from a welded stock carrier to an ARB during this process too, so that may account for some difference in how far the shaft slides in.

My gut tells me that regardless of how much tube was cut off to narrow the housing, that when I slide the shaft in and it only goes in so far, that is how long the shaft *should* be.

So can anyone tell e the "proper" way to measure for a custom shaft, and what allowances I should make to be sure it fits right the first time?

Thanks :)
 

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'82 Scrambler, '14 Rzr
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Don't tell me nobody in here has every measured for a cusotm shaft before? :confused:



I can't believe I did not think of this last night, but I guess I could pull the cover and watch to make sure the tape measure was up against the outside edge of the ARB splined side gear, then figure out how much spline engagement is necessary and use that figure...

Sound ok?
 

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uuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhhhhhh...........


Did you think to take a measurement of the axle tube BEFORE you had it narrowed??? That would´ve made the calculation rather easy, I´d think.........:rolleyes: :flipoff2:


If you can find another rig with orignal width axles, then crawl under it and measure. Then measure yours. The difference will be how much shorter you´ll want your axle shaft to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Measuring the tube before would have gotten me *close*, but the change in carrier can easily throw that off since the depths can change...
 

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Hook a tape measure in the side gear of the new carrier. Measure to the end of the tube. Add the distance from the shoulder on the shaft to the centerline of the u-joint.

At least that's what I do for a 44. A 60 might be different in this regard, but on a 44 the shoulder on the shaft almost touches and in some cases does rub the end of the tube a little. You could add a little bit to this dimension, but if you add too much you'll end up with the shaft bottoming out on the spider gear pin or the seal running on the rough part of the shaft. And as long as you have full spline engagement you're good. This dimension can be +/- a little and still work.
 

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stick a tape measure in the tube untill it hits the center pin or divider of the carrier and take the measurement at the end of the tube, now subtract about 1/4 of an inch so you dont chance bottoming out in the carrier, add the distance from the shoulder of the shaft to the center line of the u-joint and you are done
 

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Jason Lockwood said:
Hook a tape measure in the side gear of the new carrier. Measure to the end of the tube. Add the distance from the shoulder on the shaft to the centerline of the u-joint.

Thats how i did it as well.

I think most of us are in shock you went out to your shop to even work on your rig :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
GOAT1 said:
Measure the side you didn't shorten and measure the stock axle length, take the difference of those two measurements, then measure the side you cut down, add the difference to that and there you go.


Ahhhh - now this makes sense! It should eliminate me running the shaft too far, or not far enough into the locker for good spline engagement.... THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
welndmn said:

I think most of us are in shock you went out to your shop to even work on your rig :D

ouch ;) :p


I am having to grab an hour here & there when I can, but I *am* working on it!
 
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