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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Steering Version 3 - Another BAD idea :)


Not happy with the setup of version 2, I tried something else. I attached the drag link to the steering arm with the rod ends and only a 1/2" spacer. I then moved the tie rod down to the stock location in the Chevy knuckles using TREs.


Photo courtesy Jeff Ayers

This is the ES375 TRE that I used. The is the only one choice for a 3/4-16 TRE is with the "big" taper, that is from .776"to .667" (same as the TRE taper in stock Chevy and FSJ Dana44 knuckles).

The part numbers are:

Moog ES375L - Right hand thread, drivers side "outer" tie rod end (left hand side) for '67-'72 1/2ton & 3/4ton GMC trucks

Moog ES375R - Left hand thread, Passenger side "outer" tie rod end (left hand side) for '67-'72 1/2ton & 3/4ton GMC trucks

The catch with these is that they have a "dog leg" in them, that can either really help or really hurt your design, depending on application. This helped me as it helped the tie rod clear the underside of the springs.

There is no "straight" TRE with 3/4-16 threads and the "big" taper.


As you can see, the tie rod is left much more vulnerable down here, and I bashed the daylights out of it in just one trip. So much for driving finesse!


Nice bend!


The final really bad idea of version 3 was to make the tie rod double wall ( 1.25" x .095 wall tubing sleeved with 1.5" x .120 tube ). That's a total of .215" thick - almost 1/4"!! This was TOO strong, as the first time I bashed it the $80 TRE snapped cleanly right where the threaded shank entered the rod (arrow).

I was extremely lucky in that there were 3 threads left on the stub of a TRE and after painstakingly dressing them with a small file, I got the stub threaded back in enough to limp off the trail.


Back to the drawing board !!! On to version 4

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