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Nice approach on the shave. With regards to blowing pinion seals and at the support, often times it's due to plugged breathers or blocked flow of the breather. Typically in off-road rigs, it's due to mud/debris clogging the vent, but I've also seen a number of bone stock factory vehicles with plugged breathers right at the diff- either piece of metal stuck in the hole from poor factory cleanup, to crushed breathers, and severed rubber internally blocking flow right at the nipple. I pulled both of my 14s breathers and and found one clean, but one with piece of rubber inside the line blocking over 1/2 the inner diameter from insertion of the nipple into the hose itself. I've always heard it recommend to run as large a breather as you can so on my 14s, I drilled out the factory holes then tapped to I THINK 1/4npt to fit a 3/8" air line quick push lock fitting and air brake hose. ARB actually has a diff breather kit that works well for what it is using 5mm hose but in my mind I wanted bigger ID on the tube due to heat/expansion and better breathing overall from length of line. Also wasn't willing to pay the price. The 3/8" ID is nearly double what was factory so hopefully this will work. The ID of factory nipple is pretty small. I'll fab up a manifold block and route my trans and t-case breathers there also at a double junction, using the ARB compressor breathers as the finish. They're a great two way breather that actually work very well and flow fairly high volume for what they are. Fairly cheap too if you're only buying the filter. Overkill for this purpose yes, but will finish it off nice- in my mind anyway... As you're in there for the shave, might toss the idea around of cleaning up the factory breather a bit also and enlarging a bit if you feel like it. I can't say for sure yet if it will work any better or not, but I know it certainly won't hurt. Just an idea.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #282
Good point. All of my breathers are ⅜" rubber fuel line routed up high on the firewall. May as well open this one up now.

The breather on this housing exits behind the drivers side carrier bearing adjuster, and is already at axle tube level.
 

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Nice approach on the shave. With regards to blowing pinion seals and at the support, often times it's due to plugged breathers or blocked flow of the breather. Typically in off-road rigs, it's due to mud/debris clogging the vent, but I've also seen a number of bone stock factory vehicles with plugged breathers right at the diff- either piece of metal stuck in the hole from poor factory cleanup, to crushed breathers, and severed rubber internally blocking flow right at the nipple. I pulled both of my 14s breathers and and found one clean, but one with piece of rubber inside the line blocking over 1/2 the inner diameter from insertion of the nipple into the hose itself. I've always heard it recommend to run as large a breather as you can so on my 14s, I drilled out the factory holes then tapped to I THINK 1/4npt to fit a 3/8" air line quick push lock fitting and air brake hose. ARB actually has a diff breather kit that works well for what it is using 5mm hose but in my mind I wanted bigger ID on the tube due to heat/expansion and better breathing overall from length of line. Also wasn't willing to pay the price. The 3/8" ID is nearly double what was factory so hopefully this will work. The ID of factory nipple is pretty small. I'll fab up a manifold block and route my trans and t-case breathers there also at a double junction, using the ARB compressor breathers as the finish. They're a great two way breather that actually work very well and flow fairly high volume for what they are. Fairly cheap too if you're only buying the filter. Overkill for this purpose yes, but will finish it off nice- in my mind anyway... As you're in there for the shave, might toss the idea around of cleaning up the factory breather a bit also and enlarging a bit if you feel like it. I can't say for sure yet if it will work any better or not, but I know it certainly won't hurt. Just an idea.

Best of Luck,

Mike
For what it's worth, when I had the issues, I tried all of that (larger hose, made sure the breather wasn't clogged many times, etc.) except enlarging the factory hole. Granted, when I did it in the tube, it was a 1/4" I.D. hose barb so that was larger than the factory one, but I think the fact that it was in the tube made a difference in and of itself.

May as well open this one up now.
.
My thinking exactly.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Test fit some bald 39.5 Iroks to check clearances. My main concern is the leaf springs since my front axle has the wider 36.5" spacing and everyone says you cant fit a tire taller than 37". I can trim sheetmetal, but the springs are harder to move.

With the wheel cranked full lock and front flexed so the spring is at the widest point on the tire they clear. New tires will not. Thoughts are if and when I upgrade, to trim off some inner lugs to fit. Do you guys think this would be a good alternative to spacing the wheels even further out, or limiting the steering?
 

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It's definitely an option. Steering angle is by far more important to me than a few lugs becoming smaller on the tires...

With that said, I can't tell from the picture, but the leaf spring clamp seems to be what the tire would rub. Can you relocate that? It might give you a couple extra centimeters.

What about the front side of the spring when the tires are turned the other way?
 

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Discussion Starter #287
Yup it hits exactly where the clamp is, removing that is an option, but it may not be enough with fresh tread. Spacing is about 1/4" to the clamp, and Intercos website says 21/32" tread depth new. It may just work :) Plus this is at street pressure, they will shrink a bit on the trail.

Front side is ok. The ackerman angle will let it turn further back than forward.
 

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Is it possible to angle the springs inward toward the rear with some offset shackles? You'd need to redo the front spring perches, if so.

I did it on my truck due to frame clearance - the rear shackles are mounted about 2" narrower than the front (32.5" front width, 30.5" rear width) and everything mounts up fine and there's no binding. A lot of work, but it might give you the clearance that you need.
 

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It looks great with big meats Billy!
Honestly though, I'd look at maybe going with a 1/4 to 1/2" spacer before I took tread of the edges. It looks to me as though it may clear, but it's definitely close. A small spacer might be the easiest option. When are you ordering new tires lol?
 

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Discussion Starter #290
Is it possible to angle the springs inward toward the rear with some offset shackles? You'd need to redo the front spring perches, if so.

I did it on my truck due to frame clearance - the rear shackles are mounted about 2" narrower than the front (32.5" front width, 30.5" rear width) and everything mounts up fine and there's no binding. A lot of work, but it might give you the clearance that you need.
That's a thought too. I think links may be a more flexible option. Will see how things progress.

It looks great with big meats Billy!
Honestly though, I'd look at maybe going with a 1/4 to 1/2" spacer before I took tread of the edges. It looks to me as though it may clear, but it's definitely close. A small spacer might be the easiest option. When are you ordering new tires lol?
I like them too, but unless I find a nice used set at a good price it will be at least a year. Those things are spensive.
 

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This is how much my tires will stick out of the wheel well. I don't necessarily like it, but I'm rubbing my lower links a touch at full lock. I had to use my 1 1/4" spacers, but am not worried about it. How much do your current tires stick out? What about the irok's? I know we're already wide being full sizes, but if you want to be skinnier, could you go with a different width tire to help that?
 

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You didn't mention if you were going with the Irok radial or bias. The radials have a square profile, where the bias have a round/balloon profile. Going with bias would gain you a little more clearance due to the tire diameter at the outer lugs being a little less than a radial.

I'm running the 39.5" Irok bias (17x9 wheels with 4.5" bs) and they rub my lower links just before my ram is at full stroke (8"). I believe my link separation (outside to outside) where the tires rub is about 35.5" (can check tonight if you need).

Airing down doesn't seem to change the amount they rub... might be a little worse actually.

I love how the Iroks perform. Great overall tire, might not be the best at any one specific type of wheeling, but they make up for it if your wheeling conditions change with the seasons. If you desire a little more out of them, they wake up with grooving. I cut every lug in half with a 1/4" blade (cross ways) and it made a significant difference and they haven't seemed to chunk yet... but I'm not on rocks very often.
 

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Interesting tricks on the diff shave!


I would trim lugs before I would limit steering. I understand the avoidance of inboarding the springs. Yuck. Big job.
 

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Discussion Starter #294
You didn't mention if you were going with the Irok radial or bias. The radials have a square profile, where the bias have a round/balloon profile. Going with bias would gain you a little more clearance due to the tire diameter at the outer lugs being a little less than a radial.

I'm running the 39.5" Irok bias (17x9 wheels with 4.5" bs) and they rub my lower links just before my ram is at full stroke (8"). I believe my link separation (outside to outside) where the tires rub is about 35.5" (can check tonight if you need).

Airing down doesn't seem to change the amount they rub... might be a little worse actually.

I love how the Iroks perform. Great overall tire, might not be the best at any one specific type of wheeling, but they make up for it if your wheeling conditions change with the seasons. If you desire a little more out of them, they wake up with grooving. I cut every lug in half with a 1/4" blade (cross ways) and it made a significant difference and they haven't seemed to chunk yet... but I'm not on rocks very often.
They are 39.5/13.5/16.5 radials. The truck is a multitasker for the time being. It still sees the highway and hauls stuff on occasion, so bias plies are out.

With a 36.5" pad width and 2.5" springs that puts them at roughly 39" width. My wheels have 3.5" backspacing. Where are your links placed in relation to the tube? Even with, above, or below?


Everyone around here seems to like IROKs and TSLs. Unfortunately there aren't too many large radials available in 16.5. I did the same type of grooving on the surplus MTRs and it made a world of difference.

This is how much my tires will stick out of the wheel well. I don't necessarily like it, but I'm rubbing my lower links a touch at full lock. I had to use my 1 1/4" spacers, but am not worried about it. How much do your current tires stick out? What about the irok's? I know we're already wide being full sizes, but if you want to be skinnier, could you go with a different width tire to help that?
Mine stick out about half the width of the tire, which is why I dont want to go wider if I can help it. Its already plenty snug on J**p trails. The Iroks are only an inch wider than what I have. 13.5" seems to be about as skinny as you can get in a 40" ish radial.
 

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Discussion Starter #295
Interesting tricks on the diff shave!


I would trim lugs before I would limit steering. I understand the avoidance of inboarding the springs. Yuck. Big job.
Thanks for the input.

I should get back to work on the shave one of these days.
 

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Yeah, you're exactly right on the money not wanting to go wider. I thought mine was wide, but I guess is not so bad. Just have to see how the local sheriff's deputies feel about it.
Links would definitely help your situation out. It seems like a lot of work to make some tires fit lol. But worth it imo. It looks like you've settled on irok's. Not a bad choice either. The Radials should do you pretty good on and off road. The 16.5 rim size is a big limiting factor. Sad to say that, since one upon a time, that was the main size you could get big meats in. Anyway, looking forward to your solution, I have a hunch that you already have a direction regarding links or not!
 

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Discussion Starter #297
Yeah, you're exactly right on the money not wanting to go wider. I thought mine was wide, but I guess is not so bad. Just have to see how the local sheriff's deputies feel about it.
Links would definitely help your situation out. It seems like a lot of work to make some tires fit lol. But worth it imo. It looks like you've settled on irok's. Not a bad choice either. The Radials should do you pretty good on and off road. The 16.5 rim size is a big limiting factor. Sad to say that, since one upon a time, that was the main size you could get big meats in. Anyway, looking forward to your solution, I have a hunch that you already have a direction regarding links or not!
No fender laws here! Kind of surprising seeing how NY over regulates everything else.

A friend let me borrow the tires to see if they would fit. I'm not dead set on the IROKs but the Pitbulls are definitely too big, unless I stick with 37s. I guess I could go to a different size wheel.

Still tossing around the link or not debate in my head. . .
 

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If you're going to modify spring perches on the frame, might as well go links.

With that said, If anything I'd start by removing the leaf spring clamp and then trimming the lugs first. If you plan on going to links soon, limit the steering before you trim the lugs too far - that way you can do the links after the 40s and not lose any significant performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #299
Small update. The original ¼" wall tie rod doesn't seem to be up to the task, it bent on every trip out and has been straightened way too many times. So I need to upgrade.

Version 2.0 is 1½" diameter, ½" wall DOM. This should be much stronger :D
With the thicker wall I was able to tap the tube directly and not have to rely on a weld in bung. One side right hand and the other is left hand thread, to make it adjust like normal.
 

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Nice tie rod! Are you still running it in stock location? What is causing your .25 wall to bend? Is it hitting obstacles, or is one tire wedging against something and binding the system causing the tie rod to bend?
 
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