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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well as you see in an earlier post I sprung over the cruiser

when I did so all of the brake fluid drained out

then when we got done with the welding and springs and stuff and we started buttoning up the odds and ends we attached the brake lines

we blead and blead the brakes for about an hour and I did get some air out but nothing like i thought for the amount that drained out

needless to say they are spungy and I have to pump them several times before I get any peddle

now I did cut off the load sensing valve arm that attached to the rear axle but looking at how it worked and that what was left of the arm went up and that should give me more pressure to the rear not less but I may be wrong

please let me know what you know before I break out the fawking shot gun
 

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bleed starting with the cylinder furthest from the master, in line length. Outta be left rear. Then right rear. Then left front, then right front. (Check your line setup for lengths to be sure)

Probably have to go thru them all 1-2 times to fully bleed.
 

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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder??

If not you won't get much pedal firmness out of it. I ran into this problem with my new set up. Wilwood master with stock chevy brakes. Hooked it all up, filed it with fluid and bled the system. Spongy spongy spongy....pull the lines off the master, ran some rubber lines from the holes, back to the master res and pumped. Loads of air came out.

Why??

I don't know.....hahaha But after hooking it all back up, I have very firm pedal. (aahh huh huh.....firm.....)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys

should not have to bench bleed did not take off the mc but will break the lines anyway and bleed it regardless

thanks again


anyone with any other ideas and does anyone know anything about that load sensing valve in the back did fawk up or not:mad:
 

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smtyblt said:
should not have to bench bleed did not take off the mc but will break the lines anyway and bleed it regardless
Doesn't matter if you let all the fluid drain out of it, it still may not build up any pedal with air in the systme. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
cool I will bleed the mc and see if that will help

now that you metioned it saturday night when tim and I were finishing it I did bleed the front mc line but not the back and tim said it got dramatically better
 

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Is everything else the same? Calipers and rear brakes? I bet the rear MC res has air in it. Ah hell it's a quick fix atleast. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeh I hope so also it is hard enough to stop 39's no need to ass grab your seat pumping the peddle before you run over the honda in front of you slamming on the brakes as hard as he can just to feel the peddle fight him:mad:
 

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any updates??

I think you jinxed me, I got home last night and there was brake fluid all over my garage floor. :laughing: Damn brakelines.....hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just got in from outside with the wife and I reblead the brakes back to front 4 times and the MC and it worked the fourth time it worked never even saw an air bubble but I have good peddle now and if I pump it once it will put you threw the windsheild

I think the one pump is coming from the pads and shoes being worn so much they need replacing but they are good untill I put new stuff in there

thanks for the input
 

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Little late on this but I was searching for something for my samurai and came across it .. You said its better, but when you did your spring over, if you pointed your diff up any amout of degrees, what that might have done was also tilt the wheel cylinder which would have put the highest point above the bleeder valve, not allowing air to escape. Common problem in spring over samurais. If you still dont have a great feeling pedal, try raising the rear of your truck up and bleeding them again.
 
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