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Discussion Starter #321
Here is a recap on the thrash that was Friday. Whoever decided I needed to get the water done before we left was a little nuts.... Needless to say, the three hours I had planned for it wasn't enough. Oh well, I dragged my *** out of bed at 6:30 and got to work.

I had to connect the tank to the water heater, both of which were installed at this point, then do all the tank fill side of things, install the water pump, wire all that stuff, and do the grey tank. (yeah typing all that out reminds me three hours were not nearly enough, planned to work 7-10, cleanup and pack and leave at 12)

So to start we have to install the faucet. Kids oil based clay works great for making a dam.


Now you hope and prey you don't break the tile.


Breathe again....


And drop the faucet in. One thing checked off the list.


Run water lines.




Hook up water pump, used flex here to try to keep noise and vibrations in the lines down.... Pump is god damn loud. Its a used one I have had in my garage for years now.


Install fill and vent.


Add water. Chase leaks. I hate threaded fittings!!!! PEX is awesome though.

Hot water coming out!


Apparently I took zero pics of the grey tank. Its the blue jug, its a hose barb fitting off the end of the strainer basket, a piece of 1" vinyl tube. Works really well actually.



Truck drove great all weekend, towed the boat at 70 no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #325
And add more soft hose on the output side, like 3'. Looks like a 360° loop would fit nicely.
Think that will really make a difference? It didn't seem to be hammering the pipes if that makes sense. But yeah I should have room to do a loop there.
 

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Think that will really make a difference? It didn't seem to be hammering the pipes if that makes sense. But yeah I should have room to do a loop there.
It's worked for me in the past. Mounting a pump solid to a thin wall causes it to resonate like a drum. I have went so far as to mount them outside the cabin in the bottom of a tool box or the bottom of a storage area.
 

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Build thread on the other rig?

I think yours on bigger axles and mil-spec 38s would be about the same look. Nitro Gear and Axle did a similar build. MRAP axles seem overkill for sure, I'd probably look at the Super60 stuff. I don't remember what yours had from the start, but a S110 rear would go nicely with that. Hard to find these types of rigs!
He actually just has the MRAP wheel/tire package on the magna and dana axles, probably about the same strength as the Super 60 and D110 not sure if dodge uses a 110 or the 135 rear.

Java- Keep up the great work man truck is coming together really nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #328
He actually just has the MRAP wheel/tire package on the magna and dana axles, probably about the same strength as the Super 60 and D110 not sure if dodge uses a 110 or the 135 rear.

Java- Keep up the great work man truck is coming together really nice.
Ah cool, I got a quote from first attack for their 20" Super singles and conti mpt81's in a 275/80 /20. Fawking expensive..... Great product and tires I want but too much $$

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Ah cool, I got a quote from first attack for their 20" Super singles and conti mpt81's in a 275/80 /20. Fawking expensive..... Great product and tires I want but too much $$

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Other problem is the conti's have a history or wearing out quick, like swamper quick. The way to go is either rig based stuff or the military goodyear/michelin xzl's heck I was skimming through auctions other night and found some of the new xzl2's in the 335/80r20 (again I know taller than your looking for but the price difference between off the shelf 37-39's and these mil spec 41's is a huge offset.) I have seriously looked into using the 11.00r20 Goodyear G177's that my M923 came with under a pickup since the tires themselves are tubeless its just the stock rims that require the tubes but again they are 41" tall or so.


cdbd775cf960__1366324823000 - Copy_zpsg220i3tv.jpg Photo by 350TacoZilla | Photobucket
 

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Discussion Starter #330
Other problem is the conti's have a history or wearing out quick, like swamper quick. The way to go is either rig based stuff or the military goodyear/michelin xzl's heck I was skimming through auctions other night and found some of the new xzl2's in the 335/80r20 (again I know taller than your looking for but the price difference between off the shelf 37-39's and these mil spec 41's is a huge offset.) I have seriously looked into using the 11.00r20 Goodyear G177's that my M923 came with under a pickup since the tires themselves are tubeless its just the stock rims that require the tubes but again they are 41" tall or so.


cdbd775cf960__1366324823000 - Copy_zpsg220i3tv.jpg Photo by 350TacoZilla | Photobucket
Yeah I know they wear out quick, but I just can't find anything else with the weight rating and size. 37ish is what I am aiming for.

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Yeah I know they wear out quick, but I just can't find anything else with the weight rating and size. 37ish is what I am aiming for.

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Yep seems like 40" is about the cut off since there is no way your brakes would clear 16.5 hummer wheels I dont think, if they did that would give you the option of the E rated mtrs or bfg baja's which are both rated around 4500lb per tire.

Going up into 22.5 you could run dually 255/70r22.5 which would give you a bit more flotation and a 36.5" tire but not sure if it would be worth doing all that. Well I dont want to fill your entire thread about tires lol so I'll let you get back to the building.
 

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Discussion Starter #332
Yep seems like 40" is about the cut off since there is no way your brakes would clear 16.5 hummer wheels I dont think, if they did that would give you the option of the E rated mtrs or bfg baja's which are both rated around 4500lb per tire.

Going up into 22.5 you could run dually 255/70r22.5 which would give you a bit more flotation and a 36.5" tire but not sure if it would be worth doing all that. Well I dont want to fill your entire thread about tires lol so I'll let you get back to the building.
Fill away, doesn't bother me a bit, it's half the fun, info for others later on.

Yeah going 22.5 isn't really what I want to do. Honestly I think the contis ate the best bet, but it's more than half of what I have in the build..... Maybe in a few years.

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Discussion Starter #333
Who doesn't love a fresh roll of 2/0?! House battery wiring day


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Discussion Starter #336
It took 25' to get front to rear. Wow that was not fun. Its oiled up well underneath.



Disappearing into the beast


But its loomed and run the whole way! Need to get come more end connectors and run the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #337
Woohoo!! Its charging from the alternators!

Ground run to the frame. Ground the paint off and used an existing bolt/ground spot.


Connected at the battery (thoughts on an aftermarket/larger terminal?)


Make the noise! (Project Binky if you dont know the reference.... Check it out on YT, no affiliation.... :) ) Green light means the combiner works and batteries are charging from the engine. Solar controller and wiring can be seen here, and done as well!


All the electrical goodies to make it all work.


And a curtain happened too. Yes the truck is dirty.... we are using it....

 

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Discussion Starter #339
Yeah.... vent is on the wrong side of that wall. Oh well, we get to share :laughing:

Fan on high does clear out the truck pretty quick:shaking:
 

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Get some brass battery terminals with the stud and wing nut. Much easier to use and you can quickly disconnect everything for testing or in an emergency.
 
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